cient Family of Leigh, to carry a difh of it up to the coronation. A dwarf-pye was prepared for King James the First, when Jeffery his dwarf rofe out of one armed with a fword and buckler; and is fo recorded in hiftory, that there are few but know it. Though marinated fifb, hippocraes, and ambigues, are known to all that deal in Cookery; yet terrenes are not fo ufual, being a filver vessel filled with the most costly dainties after the manner of an oglio. A furprize is likewise a difh not fo very common; which, promifing little from its first appearance, when open abounds with all' forts of variety; which I cannot better resemble than to the Fifth Act of one of our modern Comedies. Left Monteth, Vinegar, Talieffin, and Bossu, should be taken for difhes of rarities; it may be known, that Monteth was a gentleman with a fcalloped coat, that Vinegar keeps the ring at Lincoln's-inn-fields, Talieslin was one of the most ancient Bards amongst the Britons, and' Boffu one of the moft certain inftructors in criticism that this latter age has produced: I hope it will not be taken ill by the Wits, that I' call my Cooks by the title of ingenious; for I cannot imagine why Cooks may not be as well read as any other perfons. I am fure their apprentices, of late years, have had very great opportunities of improvement; and men of the first pretences to literature have Leen very liberal, and fent-in their contributions very largely. They have been very serviceable both to Spit and oven; and for thefe twelve months paft, whilft Dr. Wotton with his "Modern Learning" was defending pye-cruft from scorching, his dear Friend Dr. Bentley, with his "Phalaris," has been finging of capons. Not that this was occafioned by any fuperfluity or tedioufnefs of their writings, or mutual commendations; but it was found out by fome worthy patriots, to make the labours of the two Doctors, as far as poffible, to become ufeful to the publick. Indeed, Cookery has an influence upon men's actions even in the highest stations of human life. The great Philofopher Pythagoras, in his "Golden Verfes," fhews himself to be extremely nice in eating, when he makes it one of his chief principles of morality to abstain from beans. The nobleft foundations of honour, justice, and integrity, were found to lie hid in turnips; as appears in that great Dictator, Cincinnatus, who went from the plough to the command of the Roman army; and, having brought home victory, retired to his cottage for, when the Samnite ambaffadors came thither to him with a large bribe, and found him dreffing turnips for his repaft, they immediately returned with this fentence, "That it was impoffible to prevail 66 upon him that could be contented with fuch a supper." In fhort, there are no honorary appellations but what may be made ufe of to Cooks; for I find throughout the whole race of Charlemaigne, that the Great Cook of the Palace was one of the prime minifters of ftate, and conductor of armies: fo true is that maxim of Paulus Æmilius, after his glorious expedition into Greece, when he was to entertain the Roman people, "that there was equal fkill required to bring an army ❝ into "into the field, and to fet forth a magnificent enter"tainment; fince the one was as far as poffible to "annoy your enemy, and the other to pleasure your "friend." In fhort, as for all perfons that have not a due regard for the learned, industrious, moral, upright, and warlike profeffion of Cookery, may they live as the ancient inhabitants of Puerte Ventura, one of the Canary Islands, where, they being fo barbarous as to make the most contemptible person to be their butcher, they had likewife their meat served up raw, because they had no fire to drefs it; and I take this to be a condition bad enough of all conscience! As this fmall effay finds acceptance, I fhall be encouraged to pursue a great defign I have in hand, of publishing a Bibliotheca Culinaria, or the "Cook's "Complete Library," which shall begin with a tranflation, or at least an Epitome, of Athenæus, who treats of all things belonging to a Grecian Feast. He fhall be published, with all his comments, useful glosses, and indexes, of a vaft copiousness, with cuts of the bafting-ladles, dripping-pans, and drudging-boxes, &c. lately dug up at Rome, out of an old fubterranean skullery. I defign to have all Authors in all languages upon that fubject; therefore pray confult what Oriental Manufcripts you have. I remember Erpenius, in his Notes upon Locman's Fables (whom I take to be the fame perfon with Æfop), gives us an admirable receipt for making the four milk, that is, the bonny clabber, of the Arabians. I should be glad to know how Mahome ufed to have his shoulder of mutton dreffed. I have heard heard he was a great lover of that joint; and that a maid of an Inn poifoned him with one, faying, "If he is a "Prophet, he will difcover it; if he is an impoftor, no "matter what becomes of him." I fhall have occafion for the affiftance of all my friends in this great work. I fome pofts ago defired a friend to enquire what Manufcripts Sol. Harding, a famous Cook, may have left behind him at Oxford. He fays, he finds among his exccutors feveral admirable bills of fare for Aristotle fuppers, and entertainments of country ftrangers, with certain prices, according to their feveral feafons. He fays, fome pages have large black croffes drawn over them; but for the greater part the Books are fair and legible.. Sir, I would beg you to fearch Cooks' Hall, what Manufcripts they may have in their Archives. See what in Guildhall: what account of custard in the Sword-bearer's office how many tun He, a Common Cryer, or a Common hunt, may cat in their life-time. But I tranfgrefs the bounds of a Letter, and have strayed from my fubject, which should have been, to beg you to read the following lines, when you are inclined to be most favourable to your friend; for elfe they will never be able to endure your juft cenfure. I rely upon your good-nature; and I am Your moft obliged, &c. LET LETTER DEAR SIR, To Mr. VI I HAVE reflected upon the difcourfe I had with you the other day, and, upon ferious confideration, find that the true understanding of the whole "Art of "Cookery" will be useful to all perfons that pretend to the belles lettres, and efpecially to Poets. I do not find it proceeds from any enmity of the Cooks, but it is rather the fault of their mafters, that Poets are not fo well acquainted with good eating, as otherwife they might be, if oftener invited. However, even in Mr. D'Urfey's prefence, this I would be bound to fay, "That a good dinner is brother to a good "poem:" only it is fomething more fubftantial; and, between two and three a clock, more agreeable. I have known a fupper make the moft diverting part of a Comedy. Mr. Betterton, in "The Libertine *" has fet very gravely with the leg of a chicken: but I have feen Jacomo very merry, and eat very heartily of peafe and buttered eggs, under the table. The Hoft, in “The Villain †," who carries tables, stools, furniture, and provisions, all about him, gives great content to the fpectators, when from the crown of his hat he pro A Tragedy by Thomas Shadwell, acted 1676... dúces |
