sociation, of which Mrs. Mott, a very talented lady of whom I have already written, became one of its most distinguished members. I saw many connected with this society, and never met with persons who appeared to be more devotedly pious, or more earnest in their efforts to do good. The Orthodox Quakers are equally earnest in their educational efforts, but I think if the two societies had remained together they would have been an organisation more powerful for good.

March 29.-Left Philadelphia for Baltimore, after a cordial shaking of hands with friends, from whom I separated with regret. The morning was very wet and uncomfortable, but after travelling some time the day brightened up and afforded excellent views of the country, portions of which were hilly. and picturesque. There were also occasionally beautiful views of Chesapeake Bay. I passed through Chester, the oldest village in the State of Pennsylvania, the houses of which are chiefly constructed of brick or stone, and I judge that the population would be from 3,000 to 4,000. The city of Wilmington in the State of Delaware is beautifully situated, considerably elevated above the river, having wide streets crossing at right angles, and the houses are chiefly composed of brick. As a manufacturing place it has great advantages in consequence of its extensive water power, derived from the falls on the Brandywine creek. The population in 1860 was 21,258, no other place in the State of Delaware having so large a population. It was settled in 1638 by the Swedes and Finns. We passed We passed through Newark, the seat of Delaware College, which was founded in 1833; and also Elkton, in the State of Maryland, a well built place, the capital of Cecil County. On arriving at Perryville, the train was divided into two portions so as to be placed upon a steamer to cross the Susquehanna river, which in this place appears to be about a mile broad, but as distance on the water is often very deceptive, it may perhaps be a little more. It was surprising with what apparent ease and dexterity the entire train of carriages, locomotive and all, were placed on the steamer. The track was laid close to the brink on each side of the river, and if the steamer had been of sufficient length there would have been no occasion to have divided the train at all, but it was made of two equal parts so that without being of an extraordinary length the steamer might convey the train over the river all at one voyage. It was all accomplished with so little bustle and confusion, that unless a person happened to be paying particular attention he might be taken across the river without knowing any

thing about it. On the opposite side of the river is Havre de Grace, which in 1814 was sacked and burned by the British under the command of Admiral Cockburn. The place appears at present to be in a prosperous condition, and occupies a pleasant position, near to the confluence of Susquehanna river, in Chesapeake Bay. It is both a fishing and manufacturing place, and will probably at no distant period become a place of considerable importance. The Susquehanna river has a course of 450 miles, but in consequence of frequent rapids, its navigation has been much impeded, and its importance, notwithstanding its running through three different States, has thereby been much lessened. On my way I crossed a river where a contest took place for the possession of a bridge, the rebels and the union men holding it in turns, but the bridge was ultimately destroyed, and a temporary bridge had been erected, over which the train had to pass very slowly. Baltimore is the third city in the United States for size and population. It is situated on an arm of the Patapsco river, which varies in width from one-eighth of a mile to one mile and three quarters. The harbour is supposed to be sufficiently capacious to contain 2,000 vessels. The streets of the city are broad, and the path is amply sufficient for sewerage purposes, which, with its fine climate, make it one of the healthiest cities in the American Union, and perhaps in the whole world. There is an aspect of cheerful elegance in many of the buildings, which to strangers is generally attractive. Three great avenues 150 feet wide, planted with trees, form an elevated drive round the city. In 1752 Baltimore contained only 25 houses and 200 inhabitants. In 1773 the first newspaper was published, entitled the "Maryland Journal and Baltimore Advertiser," and now there are about a dozen different papers published. The very same year that thought began to travel in the columns of a newspaper, a stage coach began to travel on the high road from Baltimore to Philadelphia. In 1775, Baltimore had increased its population to 5,934, and the year after, in consequence of the British having taken Philadelphia, the Congress was removed to Baltimore, and its sittings took place in a house which was built for a tavern, and belonged to a quaker. Part of this house is still standing, and although when it was erected it was the last house in the west end, it is now almost in the very heart of the city, and is still known as Congress Hall. In 1796 the population numbered 20,000, and it was then incorporated as a city. The population at present is supposed to be about 230,000, of which

about 30,000 are coloured. In 1791, St. Mary's College was established, a Roman Catholic Institution, to which was united a seminary for the education of priests. This establishment maintained itself with vigour for many years, possessing very extensive grounds and buildings, a Gothic chapel, and a library of 16,000 volumes. The seminary is still kept up, but the college was suppressed in 1851 by a mandate from Rome. Two extensive nunneries, have very large female schools attached under charge of the sisterhood. There are nearly one hundred public schools under the control of the city council, and it is said that the system of education adopted is of a very superior character. It is expected that each child sent to school shall pay one dollar per term of twelve weeks, but in every case where the parents are too poor to pay the required sum, their children will be educated without cost to themselves, so that all may be educated. There are

about 250 paid teachers. The Bible is daily read in all the schools, but the children of Protestant parents read the version of King James, while the children of Roman Catholic parents read in a separate room the Douay version. It is said that the beneficient working of the public school system in Baltimore is exemplified by the fact that not a single graduate of the schools has ever been charged with or convicted of crime. The Peabody Institute has lately been founded by the munificence of Mr. George Peabody, the wealthy American banker of London, who was formerly a resident of Baltimore. He gave 300,000 dollars, to be increased to 500,000, for the establishment of a gallery of the finest works of art, a library of the first class, and during certain seasons of the year, concerts and lectures of the highest excellence. From the number and quality of its monuments, Baltimore is frequently designated the "Monumental City." There is a white marble monument, consisting of a Doric column surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington, the entire height of which is 175 feet. The battle monument is also of white marble, and was erected in honour of the citizens who fell in the defence of Baltimore in 1814. Another monument was raised commemorative of the attack on Baltimore, and of two lads who shot the British commander, General Ross, and were instantly killed themselves. Another monument was erected to the honour of Col. George Armistead, the defender of Fort McHenry in 1814. It was on this occasion that the famous song of the "Star Spangled Banner was composed by Francis S. Kay. The foreign commerce of Baltimore has not

kept pace with the increase of the city. The famous Baltimore clippers are said to be some of the swiftest sailing ships in the world. Many of the churches in this city are very fine, the most imposing of which is the Roman Catholic cathedral. Baltimore being the see of the Roman Catholic primate of the United States, the stranger on highchurch days may visit the cathedral, listen to exquisite music, and witness the full pomp of the Roman ceremonial. When I visited the cathedral it was Good Friday, and the place was richly adorned. Here there are two grand old paintings which Napoleon Buonaparte took from Florence and presented to this cathedral. There are about one hundred churches in the city, the Methodist denomination being the most numerous. The manufactures of the place are numerous and various. The tobacco trade is largely carried on, there being more than one hundred establishments for the manufacture of cigars. The oyster business is carried on upon a large scale, and on entering one of these establishments I found they adopted quite a different plan to that which was practised at Fair Haven, in preparing the oysters for the market. At Fair Haven the oysters were opened, washed, and placed in kegs with a little water, and then sent off to distant places; but at Baltimore the oysters are opened, cooked, placed in cans hermetically sealed, and then sent off to all parts of the Union, and prepared in this way they will keep good a very long time. Chesapeake Bay has for a long time been distinguished for its excellent oyster beds, and the preparation for the market employs a great many persons. About 200 negroes, and sometimes a larger number, are employed at one place in opening oysters. They are exceedingly dexterous and expert, for they can open oysters at a rate which no person could believe unless he saw the operation performed. The negro stands, having hold of the blade portion of a knife, taps the edge of the oyster with the handle, opens the oyster, and it is all done in a moment of time, for a good hand can open thirty in a minute. They frequently sing while at work, the motion of the hand is made to keep pace with the tune, so that when singing they all work at the same rate. When they have full work, they are employed twelve hours in the day, during which time they can earn from four to six dollars. But the work is very uncertain, for the season only lasts eight months in the year, and the proprietor of a large establishment usually has agents in different parts of the country to sell the oysters, and just as the orders reach Baltimore from those

different agents, the negroes have to work, for they generally execute the order on the day it is received. During the season in Baltimore, there are not less than 200,000 bushels of oysters opened. I saw thousands of cart loads of oyster shells piled up in heaps ready to be taken to the kiln to be burnt into lime, which is used both for agricultural and building purposes. I went to one place where it is customary to burn 5,000 bushels in a single day. When the burning process is completed there is nothing left but a white powder, quite soft and yielding to the touch. In passing through the city I saw a very large building, the front of which was composed of iron, and was richly ornamented. It will not surprise me if such erections become very general in America, where iron is very plentiful, and where buildings are very much exposed to the danger of fire. I saw a very beautiful monument, the base of which was granite, and the upper portion of marble, erected to the memory of Mr. Wildy, the man who introduced Oddfellowship into America, and died lately at Baltimore. The figure at the top of the monument is Charity, the emblem of the order. When I got to Liberty-street, I found stepping-stones across, and I could not understand why the stones were placed there, until it was explained that there were no drains, and in consequence the rain water had to run on the surface, and the streets would be impassable were it not for the stepping stones. It seemed to be almost unaccountable that such a state of things should remain in a large and wealthy city, but I remembered that I was now in what was lately a slave state, and must ex. pect to see what would not be tolerated amongst a free people. On going to the harbour I saw a number of blockade running steamers, which had been sent out from England during the war, but were caught while pursuing their nefarious enterprise. I went on board the steamer Somerset, and had a conversation with the captain, in the cabin. This vessel is one of a new line of steamers intended to ply between Baltimore and Liverpool. I was told that the people of this city still sympathise strongly with the Southern cause, more than half of them being secessionist in principle. There is a very strong prejudice against persons of colour, and they are not permitted to ride in the street horse

cars.

I met with a coloured gentleman, a Methodist class-leader, who pointed out a Methodist chapel across the street, and he told me that he would not be permitted to worship in that place. On one occasion a bishop belonging to the African Methodist Episcopal Church entered the building, but he was

followed by the sexton, who laid hold upon him, and told him he had no right to enter such a building. The bishop was just about to leave, when several of the members who knew him, reqested the sexton to permit him to remain, and he did so. I could not help expressing myself very strongly about such conduct, for I felt as if the profession of religion on the part of the white Methodists of Baltimore was nothing less than sheer hypocrisy. Strange notions of propriety prevail here. I am told that it is considered very undignified for a person to appear to know anything about his next door neighbour, and instances have occurred where a person has been seeking another, and the next door neighbour would not admit to have any knowledge of the person enquired for, although the individual was well-known.

March 30.-After visiting the tax office, I went to the Maryland institute, for the promotion of the Mechanic Arts, connected with which is the largest hall in the city. Several of the Presidents of the United States have been nominated here. It is capable of seating 5,000 persons, but when Kossuth, formerly governor of Hungary, was at Baltimore, the newspapers represented that there were 8,000 present, but this was probably an exaggeration. The hall is 250 feet long, and at the time of its erection it was said to be the largest clear floor in America. The income of the Maryland Institute amounts to about 20,000 dollars a year. There are nearly 400 young men connected with the medical, musical, and commercial departments of the institution, There is a school of design, and a library containing 14,000 volumes, connected with the establishment. A steam engine and boiler were kept on the premises to be used whenever it is necessary, to exhibit machinery in motion. In company with several friends I ascended the Washington monument, the top of which is reached by a winding staircase, in which there are 228 steps. The height is 180 feet. The corner-stone was laid on the 4th of July, 1815. The monument is surmounted by a marble statue of Washington sixteen feet high, weighing sixteen tons, and costing 9,000 dollars. The entire cost of the monument was 200,000 dollars. The view of the surrounding country from the top of the monument was of a most splendid character. There is a large park outside the city which has been set apart for public recreation, and I was told it was a beautiful spot to visit, but I had not time to devote in that way, and therefore had to be content with a distant view of it from the monument. I understand that the cost of supporting the public park

is met by a tax of one cent on each person who rides in a street horse railway car. The cost of repairing the streets is also defrayed by the railway company. I had a view of the Peabody Institute, and was sorry to hear that the advantages of the institution could not be enjoyed at present in consequence of a dispute amongst the managing directors. Some of those directors were zealous secessionists, and others were strong unionists, and their differences had become so great that they even could not combine their efforts to carry out a great philanthropic movement. When passing along the street I met a mechanic who formerly lived at Stalybridge, who had still the appearance of a working man, and recognising me as one who had come from the old country, he expressed himself desirous to give me a treat, but I was not inclined to be made the object of his benevolent intentions. After he had left me, Mr. Halstead, who was present, told me that the man, notwithstanding his appearance, was worth half-a-million of dollars.

I

am often surprised to find how many men there are in this country who have risen from comparative poverty to a position of wealth.

March 31.-Paid a visit this morning to the Merchants' Exchange and News-room, and found that there were here 120 different newspapers taken, four of which are English. I took up one of the English papers and read the following, with respect to the President's veto of the Bureau Bill: "By one of those peaceful revolutions which can only occur in a country like this, the Radicals have in a very few days been completely discomfited, and there is scarcely a Member of Congress who adhered to their policy, who has not received intimations from his state or district, that the people have decided against him, and that at the next election will vote that he shall stay at home. This great revolution, in sentiment, has only been accomplished by the great mass of the people neglecting their business for a week; througing the streets of the city; organising monster meetings; compelling by main force State legislatures and City governments to endorse the President; firing cannon; mobbing newspapers that sympathized with the Radicals; and in a general way, declaring that Radical fanaticism shall no longer imperil the peace of the country. The remedy is a severe one, but the only one that could have cured the disease. For five years past, it has been the custom to see sympathisers with the South mobbed and beaten. Now the tables are turned. To point out a man as a Radical, an abolitionist, or a negro

W

worshipper, will bring down the mob upon him, and compel him to run for his life. The Copperheads walk about cheerfully, holding up their heads as they have not done for many a long day." The writer goes on to say that the President had three-fourths of the people in the Northern States on his side. The above quotation is just as false as if it had been written by the Prince of Darkness himself. I have mingled much in American society during the last few months. I have been amongst the rich and the poor, the white and the coloured, officials and nonofficials, and am able to state, without the slightest hesitation, that the writer has totally misrepresented facts. There is a majority against the President in the Senate, a majority against him in the House of Representatives, and a majority against him in the country. The fact is, that neither the Senate nor the House has advanced as much as the people, and all the recent elections prove it. The veto of the President filled the country with gloom, and I have heard people complain that it was a great mistake to elect Mr. Johnson as Vice-President of the United States. It was a kind of compromise at the time, for it was thought that as the President was from the North the VicePresident ought to be from the South. The course which Mr. Johnson is pursuing is alienating from him the loyal people in every state, and he is condemned on every hand as a Southern man with a Southern heart. I am not a prophet, nor the son of a prophet, but I dare predict that, at the next election, both President and Vice-President will be elected from the Northern States. Mr. Johnson is aware of his unpopularity, but he has committed himself to a course of action from which he cannot consistently withdraw. He affects to be afraid of assassination, and avoids everything like serenades, as he does not wish to expose himself to danger in the night season. A gentleman told me that he knew that all his food was tasted before he partook of it, as a precaution against the danger of being poisoned. I have heard it repeatedly stated, and I know that it is commonly believed, that more than one of the presidents of the United States have by secret means been put to death. But I do not believe that President Johnson is in any danger of having to sacrifice his life in consequence of the course which he has taken. The men of violence have generally been on the Southern side, and he is now the most popular man in all the Southern States, standing higher than either Mr. Jefferson Davis or Mr. A. H. Stephens. The only ground which Mr. Johnson has for repre

senting himself in danger of being assassinated is the fact that one of the representatives had in a speech mentioned that there had been a period in English history when if the king had acted in a similar way to Mr. Johnson it would have cost him his head. Judging from appearances, there will be no possibility of Mr. Johnson retaining influence with the party who exalted him to power, and there is no chance of his being supported to any large extent except by the Copperheads of the North or the rebels of the South. The London newspaper I have quoted, gives a description of the present crisis, which is as opposite to truth as light is to darkness, but I suppose it is not more astray in this matter than it was in its pictures of the late war, nor is it further from the truth than was the case with a Manchester newspaper which represented, during the late war, that nine-tenths of the people of England were on the side of the South. I take pleasure in reading or listening to the expression of opinions differing from my own, but when I find such a lack of moral principle that leads a person so awfully to distort facts, that he turns everything topsy-turvy, I could entertain no feeling of self-respect, if I did not endeavour to correct the mischievous error. I have high opinion of newspapers, and regard them as a necessity of the age, but when I find the writers giving that to the world which they know to be untrue, and do it for the purpose of deceiving others, I turn from them with loathing and disgust. If a man will write fables, he ought not to tell people that they are facts, and then if persons know them to be the mere creatures of imagination, they will not be deceived. After leaving the newsroom I prepared for my journey to Washington. The day was exceedingly wet, and there was much thunder and lightning. The previous day was exceedingly fine, and in the evening there had been a total eclipse of the moon. I staid up till after eleven o'clock, observing the gradual spreading of the earth's shadow over the nocturnal luminary. On my way towards Washington it was soon apparent that I was in what was formerly a slave district, the little shanties which the slaves formerly occupied being at a small distance from the proprietor's house. On the way I passed through a small town named Savage, where there are extensive iron works Bladensburg, which has obtained the name of the Congressional Duelling Ground, from the fact that, to satisfy a sanguinary code of honour, opposing statesmen fought and fell. It was here where Decatur was killed in a duel. Soon after leaving Bladensburg

Also

I came in sight of Washington, the national capital. What a great deal I have heard and read of this justly celebrated city. Washington is frequently styled "The city of magnificent distances," and I think I never saw a city which had a stronger claim to the appelation. Throughout a very considerable portion the streets are very broad, and the houses detached from each other by intervening spaces. It differs considerably from all other cities I ever saw. It is usual for public buildings to be erected to suit the convenience or necessities of the city, but here the city had to be built to suit the convenience of the public buildings. It was never intended that Washington should occupy its present site, which formerly was nothing but a great swamp. When the Capitol was first planned, it was intended that the front should face the east, and in that direction, standing on high table land, it was expected that the city would have been built. But, unfortunately, the land in this direction belonged to very few proprietors, and no sooner was it known that the Capitol was about to be erected on the hill than they raised the price of the adjacent land so enormously that people would not purchase it, and this led to the erection of houses on the western side, and by degrees, as the buildings kept extending and the swamp got drained, the proprietors of the land on the eastern side could not induce persons to purchase from them, notwithstanding the reduced rates offered. The land formerly was called Rome, and was so named by a person called Pope, its owner. As he could not obtain ecclesiastical distinction, he was wishful to be known as "Pope of Rome" by virtue of his landed possession, and I suppose that in this he succeeded, just as the honorary secretary of the United Kingdom Alliance in Manchester might succeed by adopting a similar course. Washington not only owes its name, but its very exisience to General Washington, for it was he who first suggested the idea of forming a capital for the United States here, and he succeeded in having his object carried out. I have heard various reasons assigned for this selection of the site. Some persons say it was because of its central position, while others say it was because it would be remote from any centre of population, where there would be a danger of Congressmen being overawed by mobs. If it were selected for the former reason, then a great mistake has been made, for its position at present is very far from being central, and there are many persons who now predict that in fifty years the capital will be at St. Louis, or some other important western point not far from