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History. Southern

Gillman's
9.30.27
15618

MY AMERICAN TOUR.

BY D. THOMAS.

August 30, 1865.-Left home early this morning, with the intention of making an American tour. The time had arrived when the fondest dream of my life was about to be realised; for the most ardent longing of my heart for many years had been to see the beautiful land across the broad Atlantic. A favourable combination of circumstances brought me to immediate decision, for I was not only placed in a position which gave me command of the necessary time, but the recent conflict in America tinged with a deeper interest than usual everything pertaining to the country, and furnished me with an additional motive for prompt action. The day was brilliantly fine; and after bidding farewell to my friends (a task which could not be accomplished without some degree of emotion), I started on my journey towards Liverpool. On arrival, a very brief preparation sufficed for the voyage, and on the same day I embarked in the steamship City of New York, belonging to the Inman line of steamers. The ship was full of passengers, and many applications for berths had been refused, although higher rates of fares had been offered by persons anxious to secure accommodation. The saloon appeared to be adapted for about 100 passengers, but as there were 140 who had taken cabin berths, the saloon was too small to accommodate the whole party at once, and the consequence was that we had to sit down to meals at two different times, the first breakfast hour being eight, and the second nine o'clock. The same rule was adopted with respect to all the other meals, and those who dined the first one day, would be the last the day after. This arrangement was perhaps the best which could have been made under the circumstances, yet it was attended with considerable inconvenience, for it converted the saloon into a perpetual dining hall during the passage, giving the stewards double the usual amount of labour. Many of the passengers were obliged to leave the saloon on the conclusion of each meal to make room for others.

This

was felt to be very unpleasant, especially during the prevalence of bad weather, when it would be impossible to remain on deck, and inconvenient to go below. The ship was comparatively new, as this was only its fourth voyage from Europe; and as its sailings had already secured for it a high reputation, there were many disappointed when they found that all the berths were taken up. The probability was that if the ship had possessed double the capacity, every berth would have been secured. As a set-off to some of the small discomforts of which a few of the passengers complained, may be mentioned that the captain was a most affable and agreeable gentleman, the stewards were civil and obliging, and the seamen (ninety in number) were very attentive to their duties. It is no small thing to say, that during the whole passage I never heard a sailor swear an oath, nor saw him perform a discourteous act.

August 31.-Much of the pleasure of a voyage depends upon the moral and intellectual character of the passengers, and in this respect, with very few exceptions, there was abundant reason to be highly gratified. We had on board the proprietor of an influential newspaper, four Catholic priests, a professor of moral philosophy, the wife of a missionary, the United States' Consul at Antwerp, a number of American merchants, who had been to England to make purchases, a party of Latter Day Saints, who were on their way to the Salt Lake City, and four Confederate officers, three of whom had been wounded, and one had been wounded three times. One gentleman had studied medicine, another was a lawyer, and another was preacher amongst the Scotch Presbyterians. We arrived at Queenstown at 3 15 this afternoon, having been about twenty-three hours in accomplishing the voyage from Liverpool. Having received the Irish mails and passengers, we left Queenstown harbour, and proceeded on our watery way towards the West, and soon lost sight of land. Have had no sea sickness yet, and the weather

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continues splendidly fine. From associating with the passengers, I found that the zoology of America was about to be improved by the introduction of seven skylarks, and one thousand canaries, which we had on board. I am told that in America there are neither larks nor sparrows.

Sept. 1.-Frequent thick fogs to-day. Many porpoises playing in the water attracting much attention. Fog-signals were sounded to prevent accident by collision. No vessels sighted to-day until about seven o'clock in the evening, when two were seen about the same time. The steamer exchanged signals with one of the vessels, which was bound for Montreal.

Sept. 2-Early on deck this morning, the weather being beautifully fine. Had an interesting conversation with the consul, during which I remarked that formerly the appearance of a shoal of porpoises was regarded as a certain indication of an approaching storm; but, as the porpoises made their appearance on the previous day, and no tempest had followed, it was clear that such a storm-signal was not to be relied upon. It was only necessary to wait a few hours to show how premature was the judgment I had formed. Before night-fall a terrible storm came on, and the seamen had to be alert in taking in sail While the storm was raging, I saw a seaman ascend to the top-gallant mast, and take down the pennant from the very tip. I gazed upon the foam of the white-crested billows until I was almost overpowered with a sense of the magnificence of the scene. Nothing, in my opinion, can possibly transcend the glorious sublimity of

The mighty sea,

Which rolls the great eternal bass,
In Nature's anthem.

Our gallant ship rode the billows most majestically, furnishing a spectacle of power which might have calmed to serenity the most timorous mind. Never for a moment did I experience a feeling of peculiar danger, although one gentleman said that he had crossed the Atlantic fourteen times, and had never seen the sea so rough before. We were only making about seven knots per hour. The deck was almost clear of passengers, and there was a great amount of sea-sickness below. I was not sick during the time the sea was lashed into fury, and during the entire passage I had very little sickness, although I had frequently an indescribable sensation, feeling too well to be sick, and too sick to be well.

Sept. 3.-Sunday.-Divine service was appointed to take place in the saloon at 10 30 this morning, but in consequence of the sea not being sufficiently calm, the intention

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the Personal Liberty Bill, and other points of a kindred nature. One thing was very observable, and that was, that those who took the side of the Confederates never represented that the matter at issue between the North and South was a tariff question. They complained that they had not been permitted to take their "property" anywhere, and one of them instanced the fact that on one occasion a negro nurse panied his family when taking an excursion, and he had great difficulty in preventing her from gaining her liberty. He also urged that slavery was sanctioned by Scripture, and was the happiest condition for the negro race. The question was well argued on both sides, the discussion was conducted with good temper, and on one or two occasions it continued till long after sunset. On the side of the North the American Consul came out most boldly, defending the policy of the United States Government with great tenacity. His conversational powers are of a high order, and he was listened to with great attention. I found that the Consul was well known in the United States, and had been a member of Congress four years.

Sept. 6-Had an interesting conversation with the Consul, during which he complimented me for the part I took in the discussion on the previous evening. Subsequently, he gave me his card, and offered, during my stay in the United States, to render me all the assistance in his power. I thanked him for his kindness, although it did not appear to me probable that his as

sistance would be required, During my walks on deck I met with a Frenchman, who intimated to me that he was not able to speak a word in English. I undertook to give him lessons, and in teaching him the numerals, had considerable difficulty to make him pronounce correctly the word " one." In teaching him English I was compelled to rub up my French, so that I fully realised the truth

Teaching we learn, and giving we receive. He lent me a copy of Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield," in French, and in looking over the introduction I found that the work of Oliver Goldsmith was held in very high estimation, for it was set before Shakespere's tragedies or Milton's "Paradise Lost" I regarded it as exaggerated praise, but I was nevertheless glad to find an evidence that Goldsmith was well liked on the continent of Europe. The day was wet and uncomfortable, and caused a greater number than usual to remain in the saloon amusing themselves with chess, draughts, cards, reading, &c.

The

Sept. 7-Crossing the bank of Newfoundland, and was much pleased to find. that in this foggy region the weather was nice and clear. The intense blue colour of the water, which is acquired by the great depth of the ocean, is now changed to a beautiful green, the depth of the water being only about thirty or forty fathoms. bank is perhaps seventy miles broad, and more than three hundred in length. We did not see any fishing vessels, nor any whales, but there appeared to be many dolphins. There was much pleasant conversation on board, aud a variety of healthful games were indulged in on the main deck. The interest was increased by exciting a competitive feeling, by dividing the company into parties. Sometimes it was England against America, sometimes North against South, Kentucky v. Connecticut, Richmond v. New York, and so on. games were very exciting, and produced quite a glow of animation both amongst the performers and the spectators.

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Sept. 8. It was intended to have delivered despatches at Cape Race, but, although only about 18 miles distant, as the wind was contrary, the captain decided to pursue his course towards New York, and thus save time. In the evening passed a steamer going east, supposed to be the Persia for Liverpool. Rockets were sent up.

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nearly at the same time. The phosphoric light marked the pathway of the ship, and the bright constellation of golden stars seemed to give more than usual light. We were favoured with a beautiful exhibition of the aurora borealis, and a splendid sight it was. The weather also is becoming warmer and pleasanter as we approach the American shore. Life on deck becomes more and more charming, and speeches and recitations are continued till near the midnight hour.

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Sept 10, Sunday-The batmy soft sea breeze is unspeakably pleasant. Met the City of Baltimore steamship proceeding towards Liverpool. Attended Divine Service in the saloon, which was crowded with persons from different countries England, India, France, Germany, America, The Church of England service was read, and a sermon was preached by a Scotch Presbyterian minister. He read his sermon, and sat while he read it, although a portion of his audience was standing around him. He spoke with a low voice, and consequently few could hear. Those who heard not suffered little loss, for a more inappropriate discourse I never listened to; it was a golden opportunity thrown away, and time literally

wasted. Early in the evening there was an interchange of rockets, and presently after the pilot was received on board.

Sept. 11.-Arrived about one o'clock this morning off Sandy Hook, and cast anchor till daylight. We were only about twenty miles from New York, and when the bright beams of the sun had dissipated the morning mist, it disclosed some of the most lovely scenery the eye can behold. New York bay is extremely beautiful, and especially so at this time of the year. The rich tints of autumn had given variety of colouring to the foliage, while the numerous villa residences on Long Island to the right and Staten Island to the left, furnished continually new objects for the eye to rest upon and the mind enjoy; New York, with its stately houses and lofty spires, soon presented itself to our view, and, without much loss of time, we were conveyed in a tug boat to one of the piers, where custom house officers were in attendance to inspect our luggage. This was a tedious operation, and was performed with care. The expensive war which has just been brought to a close has rendered heavy taxation a necessity, and has, probably, caused custom-house officers to be more particular than usual in making their examinations. One gentleman had more to pay for duty than the goods had cost him in England. The inspection over, I was greeted by about twenty Jehus, each anxious to take care of my baggage. length, one of them succeeded in thrusting a card into my hand and then all the rest ceased

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to tease me. On asking the fare to the hotel where I intended to stay, which I knew to be only about a mile distant, I was told it was five dollars. A sovereign for a ten minutes' ride was a luxury I did not relish, and believing it to be an imposition, I declined to pay, and, ultimately, another coachman was willing to accept two dollars and a half, which was paid to him. New York was very full of visitors, and the hotels much crowded. Three dollars per day for three meals a day and a bed was the ordinary charge; but there were extras to pay for which could not be avoided, and which tended to make living in New York very expensive. Even the shoeblacks in the streets demanded ten cents for polishing a pair of boots, and if done at the hotel, the charge was still higher. Peaches were two or three cents each, apples five cents, and oranges twenty cents. Everything Everything else was dear in proportion. Took a stroll through some of the principal streets of the city, and was soon recognized by a person named Seddon, who formerly lived in Lancashire. Passed down Fulton-street, where William Cobbett, formerly M. P. for Oldham, once kept a seed shop. In the evening, went over to Brooklyn. On arriving at the East River Ferry, I passed into the ladies' waiting room. American gentlemen are supposed to be very gallant towards the ladies, and it was preferable to sit with the latter, because, in the first place, no smoking was allowed in there apartment; and, in the second place, there was a printed notice in the room requesting gentlemen, out of respect for the ladies, not to spit on the floor.

After wait

ing as I supposed for the steamer to arrive to take me across the river, I was surprised to find that I had already nearly accomplished the voyage. What I took to be waiting rooms were, in fact, a portion of a huge floating portion of a huge floating palace, the middle area of which was devoted to the accommodation of carriages of all sorts. By this arrangement gentlemen in the city riding in their own carriages can cross the broad river without ever leaving their

seats.

Sept. 12.-My first impressions respecting New York were not of the most favourable character. I expected to find Broadway as throng, busy, and bustling, as the corner of St. Paul's, or Fleet-street, and the Strand, London, whereas it was not near so busy as Market street, Manchester. True, Broadway is several miles in extent, and this ought to be taken into consideration when forming comparisons. There is no uniformity in anything. Its architectural appearance is not of a commanding character, the houses presenting every variety of elevation. Many of the streets of New York are exceedingly dirty and ill-paved, yet I was assured by a citizen

that the cost of cleansing them was double the amount paid in Manchester. This I can readily conceive to be the case, when the difference in the price of labour is taken into consideration. The cost of cleansing the streets of New York is 498,300 dols. a year, yet many of the streets are an inch thick in unctuous mud, and many persons do not hesitate to declare that it is the filthiest city in America. The olfactory nerves are frequently disgusted with a most horrible stench. Stagnant water, broken pavement, decaying fruit, rotten vegetables, dirty gutters, offensive garbage, death-breeding filth, and masses of putrid decomposing substances present themselves to the view with most loathsome prominence in the poorer and more neglected portions of the city. None but eyewitnesses would be prepared to believe that in this wealthy city, where millionaires spring up like mushrooms, there may be found crazy tenements affording miserable shelter to six or even sixteen families a-piece. Yet such is certainly a fact, and if the cholera, which is now traversing Europe with a fearful stride, were to visit this continent, death would hold a carnival at New York. In the streets there is not only apparent a great amount of filth but also a great deal of slovenliness. It is as

if the occupiers of the different stores had obtained a license to convert the footpath, and even a portion of the carriage way, into a warehouse for their goods, for almost everywhere may be seen baskets, boxes, bales, and barrels, and a multitude of heterogeneous packages piled together in a confused heap, obstructing foot passengers and vehicles to a considerable extent. In Manchester private interest has to give way to public convenience, but in New York the reverse is the case, or at least so it appears to me. Went to Sing Sing, in Winchester county, where there is a state prison containing 1,000 cells. The prisoners earn a subsistence by working in the marble quarries, which are very extensive, and the marble is of an excellent quality. Even the prison workshops are built of marble. Sing Sing is a most picturesque spot. Went to Croton, about thirty-six miles from New York. Near this place are the extensive waterworks by which New York is supplied with water of a very pure quality, and in great plentiness. Went to Peekskill, a picturesque village, on the eastern bank of the River Hudson, fortythree miles from New York. Two gentlemen from Western Pennsylvania, both of whom were barristers, arrived at the same time. Their object was to have an interview with Dr. Grant, an eminent horticulturist, who had paid great attention to the cultivation of the grape vine. It is supposed that there are about 5,000 different varieties of grapes

in America, and it has been found by culture that the Catawba grape, which was formerly held in high repute, is not the best for table. purposes, the Isabella having superseded it. The gentlemen to whom I have already alluded took so deep an interest in the cultivation of the vine that they had come all the way from Western Pennsylvania in order that by personal observation their knowledge might be increased. One of them (Mr. Richards) made me promise that if at all convenient I would pay him a visit before I left the country. West Point is only about seven miles distant, and is chiefly noted for its military academy, which was established here more than 60 years ago. It was here where General Lee, late commander of the Confederate army at Richmond, was educated. General Grant, and other celebrated military men connected with the United States army, received their military training here

Sept. 12-My chief object in visiting Peekskill was to have an interview with the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, with whom I had become slightly acquainted during his recent tour in England. He is minister of Plymouth Church, Brooklyn, but as he has a farm at Peekskill, it forms a very convenient retreat from city life, where he can rusticate at pleasure. His house is beautifully situated on the slope of a hill which commands a view of the river Hudson, and is about 3 miles distant by the high road, but measuring, as the crow flies, much less. I found Mr. Beecher suffering from opthalmia, to which he is periodically subject. He was nevertheless cheerful, affable, and communicative. Amongst other topics we conversed about the war of independence over 80 years ago, when Arnold, one of the American generals, became a traitor with the intention of delivering West Point and the Peekskill district into the power of the English; but the scheme turned out a miserable failure, although Arnold received £10,000 for his complicity.

Mr. Beecher told me that only ten days before my visit a cannon ball was dug up on his farm, which had probably remained there undisturbed for more than eighty years.

Sept. 13.-Visited the Central Park, which is supposed to be one of the largest parks in the world, containing more than 840 acres. The attractions consist of the old arsenal buildings, parade ground, botanical gardens vista rock, &c. The pedestrian will here find plenty of scope for exercise, the walks extending over twenty-one miles. The bridle paths are five miles in extent, and the carriage drives nine miles. I considered it a very great defect that there should be al

most an entire absence of floral decoration in the park. This is the spot for loungers to visit, and thousands upon thousands take advantage of it. Here may be seen persons driving in almost all kinds of vehicles, whether the Wide World, Legion Gem, Pride of the South, Queen's Phaeton, Jocelyn No Top, Gipsy Top, Georgia, Cane Side Buggy, City No Top, Sporting Wagon, Tontine Top, Excelsior, French Jump Seat, World's Fair Buggy, Montgomery Top, Florence, Imperial, Premium, Mobile, Eureka, Antique, Park, Victoria Buggy, Plantation, Medium, Cut Under, Farmer's Buggy, Cash, Student, New Orleans, Barouche, Quinnpiack, Road Sulky, Whitney, Boston Chaise, Gazelle, Champion, Jagger, Dayton Bret, Crescent, Cabriolet, Slide, Coupe Rockaway, Spring Coach, Hamilton, Lawrence, Crane Neck, Livery, Shifting Front, Panel Quarter, Brewster Calash, Fall Scroll, Charriottee, Houston, Continental, Dog Cart, Germantown, Yorktown, Loop Calash, Brougham, Alabama, Turn Over, Perch, and other kinds of carriage peculiar to the United States.

Sept. 14.-Being anxious to see everything which is newly brought out by the inventive genius of America, I called at the Tribune office to ask if any composing machine was in use in New York. I was immediately conducted upstairs, where I saw the machine in operation. Many persons in England have an objection to the introduction of labour-saving machinery, believing that its tendency is to lower the rate of wages paid to working men. I entertain a different opinion, for there has been more machinery introduced into England during the last fifty years than has been the case in any previous century, yet wages are higher now than they ever were before. I have faith in the "good time coming," and hail with pleasure every new invention which can be made serviceable to man. No person can consistently argue against the use of machinery, unless he be willing to throw away his garden spade and scratch mother-earth with his finger nails. On entering the room where the machine was in operation, I saw a young lady in a black silk dress, white muslin jacket, gold rings on her fingers, hair dressed up in the most fashionable style, and everthing about her person as neat and prim as if she had only just stepped out of the drawing room. She was engaged in setting up a leading article which had to appear in the New York Tribune on the following day. The machine only occupies a small amount of space, and is composed entirely of iron, steel, silver, and brass. By a wonderful contrivance it sets up and distributes type with a degree of accuracy never before attained. The operator

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