THE

LONDON QUARTERLY REVIEW.

No. CLXXXI.

FOR JULY, 1852.

ART. I.-Art and Nature under an Italian | does of real Scotland. In this elegant voSky. By M. J, M.D. Edinburgh. 8vo. lume the slight element of personal asso

1852.

ciation, if not worth much, is soon swept away, and nothing remains between our mind's or memory's eye and a most unusually distinct view of Italy itself.

Ir is fortunate that, at a time when cheap postage has enabled too many people to write badly with the greatest ease, the effu- There are as many creeds in scenery as sions of returned tourists should be less in in religion, and as exclusive too. The tho vogue than formerly. All the information rough, out-and-out Highland worshipper, that aspires not above the useful, with much for instance, is seldom converted to any more beside, is now admirably arranged other form of natural beauty; but, though and condensed in the Handbooks; and who- our authoress's life seems to have been ever would snatch a grace beyond them chiefly cast among Scottish scenes, she is must bring no common abilities as well as truly catholic in her love of nature, and deopportunities to the task. In short, nothing picts every gradation, from the rugged to but a new country can now carry down a the soft, with a kind of joyful precision we poor book. This is as it should be. Yet have seldom found surpassed. A lively it is no less true that, however old the sketchy chapter of Introduction prepares the theme, a new mind will freshen it-how-reader for that stamp of traveller least likely ever over-described the region, one good to feel fatigue herself or to impart it to description more is always welcome. This, others. She hoists the banner of real enthuwe do not hesitate to say, the work before siasm at once-begins with a thrill of deus offers. A grand-daughter of Beckford's, light at the Rhine! the Rhine!' and takes while travelling in his steps, had a claim of us on in rapid stages of ecstasy at the first no common kind to be heard, and she has sight of the Alps, along the Lake of Geneva, fully justified her claim. We will not say and over the Simplon Pass, till she culmithat she is deficient either in the knowledge nates in an appropriate transport at the or poetic feeling of her grandsire, though sudden transition to the southern beauties she makes a display of neither; but her of the Val d'Ossola.

merits rather consist in turning to unusual The entrance into Genoa is the occasion account that weakness in which lies a lady-of another burst, and also the scene of an tourist's strength, namely, the absence of adventure.

that medium of acquired lore which, in the The approach to Genoa greatly delighted best hands, will as often intercept as en- me. Villas and gardens full of orange-trees hance the prospect. Descriptions of Italy and flowering shrubs on either side of the road, by time-honoured names-scholar, poet, with trellised vines supported upon ranges of and painter-rank among the highest works stone pillars. These are often placed tier above in the English language, and he or she tier, and their rich ornaments contrast beaumust be bold who would compete with tifully with the craggy rock from which they seem to spring. Altogether there is something them on their own ground; yet we may peculiar and appropriate in this approach, preunreservedly own that some of them pre- paring one, so to speak, for the magnificent sent as little of real Italy as Dr. Johnson scene which greets the traveller, when, on turn

VOL. XCI.

1

ing one of the abrupt declivities which jut upon | had taken from him all presence of mind. His the road, Genoa la Superba bursts upon the distress, however, was so real, that I could only view! It is built nearly in the form of a cres- most humbly express my regret, informing him cent, at the foot of mountains of various heights, that a priest had directed us to seek the sacrissome of the lower eminences being crowned tan by the door at which we had entered. He with forts and ramparts, and their sides gay seemed pacified when he learned these particuwith palaces and terraced gardens. At each lars, and yet more so when he saw us fairly end of the crescent-shaped city are two noble into the church. When all was over, we enpiers, with lighthouses terminating both. One joyed a hearty laugh.'-p. 58.

is particularly fine, rising between three and

four hundred feet from the solid rock. Splen- We should like to know what place is did houses line the principal streets, which,

though narrow, convey no idea of gloom, while sacred from the innocent audacity of an exthe shade they afford from the glare of the ploring Englishwoman! Let them laugh noonday sun is most grateful. I was delighted who can; we are inclined to take part with with Genoa, even by the time we reached the the poor monk thus recklessly tricked into Albergo d'Italia, a very good hotel, with a most transgression and out of peace. Nor is this attentive and obliging landlord. Our rooms by any means a singular example. We were quite charming, but at such a height know another most charming Englishwoman Nos. 65 and 66! However, the heat was so driven out of a garden, where of course she intense, we were glad to have large airy apart had no business, with this emphatic repuments, even at the expense of climbing up to them. We arranged to go out and see the diation of her society-qui non ci vogliono church of L'Annunziata and return to tea be- donne-sturbano la nostra tranquillità! But fore going up to our nest again. Well may it is of little use shutting the convent door people talk of the extraordinary magnificence after the lady has been in. Doubtless, if of this church. It is one mass of gold and blue the truth were known, the repudiation came and gorgeous marble of every colour. Bright too late for the tranquillità. We resume pictures set in golden panels look down from the roof, and lapis lazuli is the ground wher- where we broke off. ever they are not. In the dome, which is lighted by windows all round, are paintings which, at 'As we were leaving the church, however, that distance at least, are perfectly beautiful. we saw a party of strangers accompanied by a The windows are set in massive gold frames, man who proved to be the sacristan. He took and the effect of crimson silk curtains, on which us to a small dark corner behind one of the the setting sun was shining, was nothing less aisles, and pointed out the painting we had than glorious.. We looked in vain for a sought. I was exceedingly disappointed, havpainting I had heard was in this church, and ing heard that this Last Supper by Procaccini which I wished to see. Observing a priest was much celebrated. I am afraid I may somewalking in one of the aisles, I ventured to times seem almost presumptuous in thus venaccost him, asking him if he could tell me turing to form my own opinion about many of where was the Cena. He replied that he was these famous works of the old masters'—[We himself a stranger, but, pointing to a door not were not aware that this Cena was a famous far from where we stood, he told me I should work, or Procaccini an old master whom it was there find the sacristan. We followed his di- any heresy not to admire-but, in the first rections, and, passing down a long dark pas- place, I can only speak of the impression they sage, unhesitatingly opened a door which seem- make on my own mind, and, moreover, I never ed to terminate it. Not finding this the case. can admire anything because I am bid. I once and meeting no one, we still advanced until we overheard a party discussing various paintings. came to a large stone hall; this was empty, They evidently wished to do their duty scrupuand we were just about to turn back when, lously; but one of them ventured to express a through a partially opened door, I perceived a doubt as to the degree of admiration to be bemonk sitting at a table writing. Concluding stowed on a very dark, fearful-looking picture— him to be the sacristan, I advanced towards one an artist might appreciate, but which none him; at the sound of footsteps he raised his else could possibly regard with pleasure. The eyes, and instantly starting up, uttered a most very doubt seemed to astonish the rest of the vehement exclamation of horror. His sudden party, and one exclaimed, "Oh! how can you? motion completely startled me, and I stood Murray says so." Many a time since has the where I was, in vain attempting to make known expression recurred to me, "Murray says so;" our request. His gesticulation became so vio- and therefore perforce it must be beautiful! lent, and his screams--for indeed I cannot call exquisite !" &c. But to return. We retraced them words-so wholly unintelligible, we could our steps to the hotel, and greatly enjoyed a only gaze at his frantic excitement with sur- really comfortable meal after the wretched fare prise. At length the oft-repeated "la Signora" of the last few days. The heat, even during threw some degree of light upon the subject. the night, was overpowering, and, combined and my immediate retreat produced a more with the torments of living animals, effectually soothing effect than all my efforts at explana- put sleep to flight. I rose and looked out betion. In fact, I had unconsciously entered the tween one and two o'clock in the morning upon sacred precincts of the monastery belonging to a strange and beautiful spectacle. The lights the church; and his horror at seeing a woman sparkling like gems all round the bay-the rich where probably none had ever appeared before glow of the ruby beacon-light upon the Molo

Vecchio, like a star watching over the slumber-white houses dotting the sides of the hills ing city-the phantom-like vessels dimly re- which surround it. We stopped here and lookvealed in the darkness, with here and there a ed back on the proud city below, and out upon twinkling light on the waters-the marble whiteness of the houses near, and the utter stillness around-nothing to be heard save the breaking of the swell against the rocks.'-p. 59.

the blue Mediterranean, impressing that panorama on our memory as perhaps lovelier than we had ever seen or were likely to see again! and yet, as we proceeded, new scenes of beauty opened upon us, such as do indeed baffle descripWe have purposely left those two omi- tion, though one cannot help at least trying to nous words in italics standing. A few convey an idea of what has given such intense pages further on we are indulged with an enjoyment. The sides of the hills, abruptly amplification of the same theme. The lady est vegetation, and shrubs that seem more suitsloping to the coast, are covered with the brightdescribes a night of horrors rather minutely ed to tropical climes grow in the richest profu-succeeded of course by a burst of injured sion. There are olive and fig trees, with their innocence from the landlord next morning: many sweet and scriptural associations, carry'Madame was the first person who had ever ing one's mind to the times of our blessed Lordseen anything of the kind in his house.' The his beautiful parables and lessons of heavenly subject is not attractive, but it is curious. toons from tree to tree, and giving added grace wisdom; vineyards casting garlands and fesThese protesters of injured innocence are to each; orange and lemon groves, with their like the Devil-worshippers. They cannot, dark green leaves and golden fruit; pomegra it is true, conceal the existence of their idol nates and palms; cypresses, like tall spires, (would that they could!); but they deny it towering above; and the stone pine, beautiful as religiously. Differences of climate, counin itself, but still more so from its associations in try, and race vanish before the mysterious Lorraine. Hedges of the sword-like aloe, and one's mind with the lovely landscapes of Claude bond which unites all landlords and landla- everywhere the cactus or Indian fig, grow in the dies in one unfailing falsehood-they are greatest luxuriance on the very ledges of the one people, speaking one language all over rocks which rise from the sea-shore. Here and the world. No matter where the traveller there the rich berries of the Arbutus appear may be assailed-in Naples, Archangel, like bunches of coral, while sweet roses bloom Madrid, or London-on couch, divan, French from every little nook; and all this but as the bed, or four-poster-the same wonderfully landscape. One lovely bay succeeds another :minute finishing of the grander features of the concerted answer meets your ear the next some soft and still, with a pebbly beach on morning;-host or hostess are ready to which the waves seem to flow gently, as though pledge their souls that you are the first per- whispering sweet music; others again have bold son ever so disturbed under their roof. You protest that you never closed your eyes they are perfectly unmoved: you show the burning fires which the enemy have kindled in their passage-fires, alas! which no ingenuity can quench until they expire of theinselves-your friends suggest gnats or auts; finally, you display a trophy of fallen foes but the defence is ready-you brought them with you! The stronger your evidence, the bolder their denial. Never was there a community whose unity was so complete, power could have placed them there. The teror whose idol so abominable! You may raced gardens. with statues peeping out from possibly hope to reclaim a cannibal, con- the flowers and other gay decorations, strike vince a Brahmin, or convert the Pope; but one at once as so in harmony where all is bright, you need never dream of inducing one of and where the sky and earth and sea seem enthese detected householders to own the joying a continual holiday. Onward we went through this paradise, till, after climbing a very truth. steep part of the mountain, we stopped at a little inn most beautifully situated on the side of

and rugged shores, overhung with dark rocks and precipices, the hidden breakers underneath only revealed by the angry foam of the receding them; while the hardy pine hangs over the waves, urged by the swell of the sea upon very brink, as though vainly seeking its reflection in the troubled waters below. Stretching far away in its calm bright loveliness till lost in a flood of dazzling light, is the blue, the ever beautiful Mediterranean. The houses and vil lages with gay painted gables, scattered here and there, stand sometimes so high on the mountains, that it seems a marvel how human

The departure from Genoa is another beautiful moving panorama, set to music a wooded lank, with a grove of acacias before

too.

it. Here the view already enjoyed as we ascended, ope ed out still more magnificently; 'On leaving Genoa we entered upon the love- such a panorama of varied picturesqueness I liest drive, I believe I may say, in the world! never looked on. The air, too, not only breaththe Riviera di Levante. The road begins almost ed fragrance, but seemed pouring forth its joyimmediately to ascend after passing the environs ous notes. It was just twelve o'clock when we of the city, and from the first summit of the reached the village inn, and all the bells of the overhanging mountains there is a magnificent churches were chiming.'-p 66. view of Genoa with its harbour and ships, its towers, domes, and spires, with thousands of

Rome and Naples, with all the beauties

After

and wonders in and around each, pretty on which we were stationed, and poured over much divide this volume. There is plenty the edge, sending up a heat and a sulphuric atof temptation to quote, but we must con- mosphere almost intolerable within a few yards. tent ourselves with this description of an round the verge to a spot at some distance from After a little breathing space here, we went angry Vesuvius by night, witnessed, it may the running lava, where the surface was not too be, by many, but seldom described so accu- hot to tread on, and there bivouacked comfortarately. Prognostications of a coming erup- bly, producing our basket-stores wherewith to tion had been afloat for some weeks-the beguile the remaining hours till sunset. mountain had been uneasy, rumbling noises this event takes place, an Italian twilight does had been heard, the wells at Resina were not long try the patience of those who long for dried-and at length, on the 31st of January it was we found the fog amid which we had darkness, as on this occasion we did. And now (1846), a stream of lava was reported to ascended an advantage to the scene. As evenhave burst forth on the side next Naples. ing drew on, the darkness was rendered by it This was the time for English spirit and dar- doubly obscure, and the reflection of the lava ing to inspect the menacing volcano, and upon the misty atmosphere, dispersing a fiery accordingly a party was arranged to ascend tinge above and all around, was beautiful and and remain above till the darkness of night. the time we waited, the volcano itself had been grand beyond description. Hitherto, during The day was misty, but as they approached peculiarly quiet and inactive only one slight the Hermitage the smoke from the descend- explosion occurring, so much that we feared a ing lava became visible. disappointment, and a party who had arrived before us actually took themselves off in despair. 'Leaving our animals upon the level platform A hint from our good friend Salvatore made us above the Hermitage, to which has been given act more wisely, and we were abundantly rethe name of the Sala di Cavalli, we started warded. amid the good-humoured cheers of the guides on 'At six o'clock we were startled from our our toilsome way. About a fifth of our ascent resting-place by a tremendous outburst, which from this point had been accomplished, when, seemed the beginning of a continued series for on pausing and looking upwards, we could very the whole evening. We sprang to our feet, plainly both hear and see the slow downward and, stumbling with great difficulty over the progress of a body of lava, hissing and rattling jagged masses of lava, scarcely half-cooled, and among the loose cinders as it overwhelmed or through an atmosphere at times pungent and dislodged them, and occasionally sending huge stifling to an intolerable degree, we traced the pieces bounding down the steep declivity in a fiery stream to its fearful source. Taking up way that endangered not a little those below. our position immediately below the crater, we Soon after, we came opposite the lower end of stood in breathless admiration, watching its this smoking stream, and approached cautious- convulsive throes succeeding each other at inly to obtain a nearer view of it. Even here it tervals of one or two minutes. At times it was of a glowing red heat upon the surface, seemed to pause a little as though for breathing though often so covered over with floating cin- space, then to increase in fury, sending up its ders and enveloped in smoke that the actual roaring volleys of blood-red stones and dazzling deep red of the fire was obscured. On looking meteors five or six hundred feet into the deep to the summit we could see against the sky-as black night of the sky, rendered yet more black one does on looking from below up to the shoot and dark by the smoke of the volcano, which of a cataract above-the stupendous torrent at this hour usually collects in murky clouds slowly lipping over the ledge of the large cra- about the mountain-top. These brilliant mester, like a huge, hissing, fiery snake deliberately sengers, after describing a graceful parabolic crawling forth from its lair down upon its vic- curve, fall round the sides of the cone in a tims beneath. The motion is peculiarly steady shower of splendour-mingling much of the and slow, even where the angle of its descent is beautiful with the terrible. The scene and our most abrupt, and accompanied, from the move- position were extraordinary indeed, and the ment of the loose cinders which impede or at- feelings of awe, fascination, and subdued extend its progress, with a kind of trinkling sound, citement, such as are likely to be but seldom somewhat resembling that caused by fragments called forth in the same degree during a lifeof ice hurstling each other in a half-frozen ri- time. Again and again the idea arose, "Can ver. On reaching the summit we found a con- we ever forget the sensations of this moment?" siderable change in the appearance of the large And yet there was little mingling of fear or crater since our former visit. Instead of the nervous apprehension, though surrounded by comparatively level platform of hard lava, lying objects that might well have caused such. We 10 or 12 feet lower than the edge on which we were conscious rather of an elevation of spirit stood, and extending to the cone of the active corresponding in some degree with the sublimicrater in the centre, we found the whole surface ty of the scene, and the vastness of the power greatly elevated, broken up and heaved into whose operation we witnessed-a more than irregular piles, evidently from the recent throes ordinary realisation of the presence of Him to of the volcano beneath. Across this space, whom earth and air, fire and water, yea, all slowly winding among its chasms and irregularities, on came the moving lava towards the outer verge, where, after making a circuit almost beneath our feet, it swept round the mound

the powers of heaven and earth, are but ministers of His will! Yet it were presumptuous to say that there is no danger to spectators in such a position-danger there must always be

from the perfect uncertainty at what moment thy visages and strange dresses. At times, too, or in what place the volcano is next to find vent. one of them would start the first notes of a We were made to feel this especially as we simple air, and then those around would catch stood on a little mound of lava near the mouth it up, and conclude each verse with a burst of of the crater. On one side of this mound, and one of those wild and most musical choruses not above eight or ten feet from us, the eye which characterise the old native airs of Italy.'looked directly into a cavern of fire, not of p. 154. flame, but of clear, quivering, glowing fire, like the heart of a fierce furnace seven times heated.

Nothing can take from the impressiveness This aperture might be about six feet in diame- of this description, the reality of which ter;-its depth-that of the mysterious world gives only a wider field for the imagination: of terrors below! It was not a little appalling

It

to discover, by looking at the ragged edges of We may, therefore, venture to wind it up this opening, how thin and slight is the crust with a finale in a very different key-nameinterposed between the foot and the abyss over ly, the descent from the mountain on an which it treads. Indeed, this had already been earlier and that a daylight visit:— evident from the innumerable rents and chasms that seamed the surface over which we had 'Every one knows there is but a step from passed, and through which the red fire was the sublime to the ridiculous, and this every one often visible at the depth of not more than two must have experienced who has made the usual inches; and yet so firm and metal-like feels the descent from Vesuvius. The guides conducted resistance to one's step that without this awful us to a place where there was no lava or cinders, proof the fact could scarcely be believed. From but only loose sand, in which the feet sank somewhere between this mound and the foot of deep, and which yielded under the step. the volcanic cone, although invisible for a few is as nearly perpendicular as the place of asyards from what must have been its actual cent. The manner in which we set off, by the source, oozed forth, slowly and quietly, with a direction of the guides, who must have all done motion and consistency not inaptly likened to according to use and wont, was more like the that of thick honey, the deep red glowing-river act of casting one's self headlong from a stuof lava, winding its deliberate but irresistible pendous precipice than anything else; yet, in way over the black rugged surface of the large truth, it is an act of wisdom, and of some deold crater, which, as already explained, forms gree of pleasure too. One has but to throw the the whole table summit of the mountain- feet forward, and the downward impetus of the creeping over the precipitous ledge-and then body does the remainder of the work. The soft down, down-far into the thick darkness of the yielding sand completely breaks the shock. The world below. No description, no painting can fresh exhilarating air seems half to bear you on give an idea of the intense and glowing red of its wings. The sensation is one something bethis molten lava as it issues fresh from the bow- tween skating and flying, and, while strength els of the earth. Liquid metal flowing from and breath endure, decidedly a pleasant one. the furnace of an iron-foundry is the only thing This is the poetical part of the proceeding to that conveys an idea of it, yet falls short of its those actually engaged in this Rasselas-like advivid glare. A thin white vapour rose from venture. But to a looker-on-the foolish, frantic, the surface, and the light reflected from it, and headlong pace-the involuntary, but most lunacolouring its ascending wreaths with a deep, tic-like gesticulation of arms and legs-the rich, ruddy tint as it rose into the darkness, breezy fluttering of ladies' dresses, dishevelled marked its downward course, rendering it visi- hair, and bonnets with cracking strings strainble from a great distance, and lending a strange ing to be left behind-the giant strides, streamwild awful character powerfully affecting the ing coat-tails, and clenched teeth of the sterner imagination. One can approach as near the sex-all laughing, shouting, leaping, and anon running lava as the overpowering heat will precipitated helplessly on each other's shoulders, permit, without the slightest apparent danger. forms a picture of the most unmingled absurdWe approached quite to the edge of it, and, ity.'-p. 112. holding the ends of staves, with which we were provided, to the lava, they flamed even before touching the liquid fire. One of our party sky,' our authoress is sufficiently vindicated. availed himself of it to light a cigar-another The refreshing difference between Nature did his best to roast an apple, but found the and Art, in the mental power of judging heat too great to complete the operation. Of of each, is that with the first no one can adcourse, in our cautious movements over the mire amiss. All that glitters with her is crackling surface, we were implicitly led and assisted by our guides, who bore flaming pine gold. She has nothing meretricious to mistorches to light our footsteps-little needed, in- lead the eye. We may not admire enough deed, while the artillery of the mountain was -we never can admire enough; but though flashing in the sky, but very necessary in the our homage reach but to our great mother's deep darkness of the intervals. Strangely pic- commonest gifts, they are sure to be more turesque were the figures of these men, seen in than worth the tribute. Knowledge, therethe flickering torchlight, standing in various fore, though it may immeasurably increase attitudes upon the little eminences around,

As a describer of 'Nature under an Italian

leaning on their long white staves, or grouped our pleasure by widening our view, yet can together round some fiery chasm, the ruddy never be called strictly necessary in a study glare of the fire thrown upwards on their swar- where there is no wrong road. But where