CHAPTER XVIII.

China-Town of Macao-Lintin Island and Bay-Opium Smugglers-The Commodore's Excursion to Canton-Inhabitants of Lintin-Small Feet of the Chinese Women-Religious Ceremonies-The Potomac ordered to Depart by the Chinese Authorities-Second Excursion to Canton-Passage up the River-Forts, Pagodas, Scenery, &c.-Wampoa, aquatic Population, &c.-Wonderful Skill of the Pilots The Factories at Canton-Hospitable reception of the Party-The great Temple, or Jos-house-The officiating Priests-The Jos Pigs, clerical Cells, Gardens, &c.-The great Bazar-Dramatic Performances-Anniversary of the Snake-boat-Police of Canton-Its Walls and Gates-Forcing an EntranceThe Hong Merchant's expedition in Business-Mode of Computation-Description of Canton-Return of the Party.

THE town of Macao is in latitude 22° 13′ north, longitude 113° 46' east. The city of Canton is about sixty miles further inland, in the direction of north-northwest. The whole bay, or estuary, is thickly studded with rugged and barren islands. Macao is on the west side of the entrance; built on a peninsula, which is almost an island, being joined to the main by a very narrow isthmus, across which is erected a barrier or wall, about two miles north of the town, being the limit prescribed to the ceded territory, to prevent any intercourse between the Portuguese and the liege subjects and citizens of the Celestial Empire. This barrier was constructed in fifteen hundred and seventy-three, and the heaviest penalties were threatened to those who passed it in either direction. These restrictions, however, have gradually fallen into disuse, and are not at all regarded at present.

This site, for a commercial establishment, was ceded to the Portuguese as a recompense for an essential service they had rendered the Emperor of China. About the year fifteen hundred and thirty-eight, a pirate of notorious daring and success, having under his command a considerable naval force, took possession of this peninsula, and was thereby enabled to block up the southern ports of China, and even extended his audacity so far as to lay siege to Canton !

In this extremity, the neighbouring Mandarins applied for as

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sistance to the Portuguese, who had an establishment at Sancian, an island on the coast, with several ships of war in the harbour, which were instantly despatched against the pirates. The Portuguese proved victorious, and raised the siege, and pursued the piratical chief as far as Macao, where he put a termination to his own existence. His band, however, or a nautical banditti of a similar class, long continued to infest the islands, coasts, and rivers in the neighbourhood, even until the year eighteen hundred and ten, when they were effectually subdued by the joint efforts of the Portuguese, English, and Chinese.

When the Emperor of China was informed of the service which the Portuguese had rendered him on this occasion, he bestowed on them the Peninsula of Macao, as a mark of his gratitude. They had long wished to establish themselves upon a footing more solid than the one they had at Sancian;* and now proceeded with avidity to build a town on their new territory, which soon became very flourishing, being most advantageously situated for prosecuting a trade with Japan. It is defended by three forts.

The approach to Macao, from the sea, is very beautiful in the daytime, and is not without its charms by a brilliant moonlight. It was midnight when the frigate came to anchor in the road. The following morning brought with it novelty, if nothing more. The fleet of little boats were all in motion. The land around seemed broken into a thousand hills, covered with stinted verdure. Macao, though distant, looked beautiful and highly picturesque. Every thing was new to the beholder, and strikingly characteristic of a foreign land. One reason, perhaps, why China, and every thing connected with it, imparts the idea of wonderful, is, that each stranger who visits this country is previously determined to be astonished at every thing he sees and hears; nor will strange things be wanting!

Early in the morning, an officer was sent to communicate with the authorities of the town of Macao; and while he was still absent on that duty, the Potomac's anchor was weighed, and her sails loosed. On the boat's return with the officer, the frigate was

* Sancian is an island of China, on the coast of Quang-tong (Canton), forty miles in circumference, famous for being the burial-place of Francis Xavier, whose tomb is to be seen on a small hill.

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immediately got under way, and with a fine breeze stood up the channel for the Island of Lintin, on the southwest side of which is a bay, with good anchorage. This island rises into a peak, which can be seen at a distance of forty miles in clear weather, and is said to be about seven hundred feet above the level of the water. It is seldom ascended, being very difficult of access; although our countryman, W. W. Wood, Esq., of Philadelphia, with two other gentlemen, succeeded in reaching the summit, in May, eighteen hundred and twenty-seven, just five years previous to the Potomac's visit. He represents the view from the peak to be "really magnificent, embracing the islands on the coast, the neighbouring highlands of Lantao, and the shores of the river above Lintin."*

The Island of Lintin derives its principal importance, and all its celebrity, from the circumstance of its affording a safe anchorage for ships while waiting for pilots, and its being the station of the opium fleet. The Bay of Lintin, as it is called, where the Potomac now lay at anchor, is between the island and the mainland. Here were a number of vessels, mostly engaged in the smuggling trade; one of them, a very fine large American ship, called the Lintin, being stationed here to receive and dispose of opium, of which article most of the contraband trade consists. Such is the manner of carrying on this business, that it is divested of most, if not all the odium still attached to smuggling in other

countries.

The quantity of opium consumed throughout the Chinese empire is known to be immense. It is not used as a medicine, but chewed and smoked as an exhilarating stimulant. Its importation into the country is, and long has been, prohibited by imperial decrees, threatening heavy penalties. These, however, are constantly evaded, and this ruinous drug finds its way into every part of this immense empire; there being few who can afford it that do not indulge in its use.

The smuggling boats are long, narrow, and swift-sailing vessels, constructed expressly for the purpose, and manned with about fifty rowers. They have, generally, two long masts, on which matsails are hoisted when the wind will serve. These boats, at all

* See Wood's Sketches of China, Philadelphia, 1830.