CARP POND-COLLECTOR, (PEIRCE'S PLAN,) SHOWING DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION. See pages 161 and 163.

angles with the sluice-ditch, and entirely within the pond, at least eight inches away from the bottom slope of the embankment. This timber should be five or six feet long. The point where it is bedded should be the extreme lowest point in the pond, for on this is to rest the upper end of the sluice, (as shown at S, Fig. 13,) which is to draw all the water from the pond when desired. It should be bedded perfectly level. Board piling should be driven along its front nearly the whole length to a depth of two or three feet, if practicable, and level with the top of timber, and firmly nailed thereto. An edge view of these pilings is shown at left-hand edge of sluice, in Fig. 12, and nailed to the timber f, in Fig. 13. The sluice may now be placed in position, the upper end to extend, say, two-thirds across this foundation timber, and to rest evenly on it and the pilings or blocks across the ditch, the lower end to be one and one-half or two inches lower than the upper end, that the water may pass off readily. When in position, nail through the end into the timber, and also through the edges into the foundations along the ditch, so as to keep in place while being "puddled," (which will be described further on.) Have the sluice square on its foundations, and its upper section plumb. Now fit and bed the wing-timbers, as shown by dotted lines at g, g, Fig. 13.

The ends next to the sluice must be cut to the proper angle, and firmly nailed to the timber ƒ, preferably about six inches away from the end of the sluice, and exactly level with the timber f. The other ends should be about one inch higher. For the hatching-pond, these timbers should be about ten feet long, and should be placed at an angle of about forty-five degrees to the line of the sluice in all cases when practicable. The other timbers are to be fitted, placed and nailed, as shown by dotted lines at h, h, h, h, h, in Fig. 13. They should be about four feet apart, and leveled across from the ends of the wing-timbers. When fastened in position, the earth should be filled around, and level with the top of them. The floor may now be laid and nailed to these timbers, as shown in Fig. 13. Very common inch boards will answer. The ends should project well over the wing-timbers, as shown, in order to receive sufficient earth to hold the platform in place, otherwise the water would float it. The sides of the collector may now be placed in position, as shown, directly over the wing-timbers, fitted and nailed to the sluice, and firmly toe-nailed into the wing-timbers. Most of the nails to be driven from the outside edge. These sides for the hatching-pond should be about four inches high. After these are in place, other pieces, at least half an inch narrower, should be placed in a bracing position on the inside, as shown by broken sections at k, k, and end view at sub- Fig. 1, and toe-nailed down into the platform, and also nailed through, near the top edge, into the outer side board, as shown in sub-Fig. 1. This prevents the earth forcing in the sides. When the two sides are completed, a similar construction must be placed across the broad end, only it should be about half an inch lower. After this is completed, the ends of the timbers should be staked down as shown at h, h, h, h, h. These stakes should be similar to fence palings, driven as shown, the first nailed to the collector, and the second nailed to the first, and both sawed off level with top of collector. This arrangement will effectually prevent the collector from floating. The bottom of the pond may now be graded even with the top of the collector. The space in the form of a semi-circle, as shown by the dotted line from. corner to corner of the collector, (Fig. 10,) should be level and composed of clear earth, so as to form mud for the carp to hibernate in. For the hatching-pond, this mud should be at least six inches deep. The balance of the central portion of the pond should be oviform, or the shape of a turtle's back, as shown in Fig. 10, sloping from the

upper end gradually to the hibernating ground without any decided ditches, yet with a gentle depression around the turtle-form, and then rising very gradually to the water's edge. The object of this form of bottom is two-fold: First, to render the larger portion of the pond shallow, and second, to prevent the carp from crowding together while the water is being drawn off. Otherwise, a large portion of them would be liable to be lost in the mud. The only way they can all be saved is by means of the "collector," into which they will gradually collect when the water is drawn, as must now be evident.

We now come to one of the most important details of carp pond construction, namely, the "puddling" of the sluice. This may be done before or after the construction of the collector, but preferably after, because of the convenience of controlling the water which, perhaps, is already running down the ditch. If, however, the site is a dry one and the water is to be artificially introduced, it should now be turned in and the sluice-gate closed. The frst preparation for puddling is to form a dam across the lower end of the ditch, carefully fiillng under and around the end of the sluice and over it at least a foot in height. The water should now be let into the ditch till the sluice is at least half covered with it, and, starting at the lower end and gradually along the entire length, commence throwing in small quantities of clear earth or sand, mixing it thoroughly with the water so as to form a thin puddle. A smooth round pole not over two inches in diameter at the larger end is the best possible implement for this purpose. At first, the filling and puddling should be entirely on one side in order to ascertain on the opposite side when the puddle has worked entirely underneath the sluice. It will now be understood why the sluice should be at least three inches above the bottom of the ditch, and also why the puddle should be very thin, for otherwise it would not fill every crack and crevice, which is absolutely necessary. This portion of the work cannot be done too thoroughly. When the puddle has filled under the entire length of the sluice so that it begins to come up upon the opposite side, the process may continue on both sides until the lower section of the sluice is surrounded and covered at least one foot with thin puddle. The bank across the lower end may now be carried up according to the slope of the dam, and up the ditch to within say a foot of the upper section of the sluice. Good, strong sods should be cut for the pond slope of the upper section of sluice. These sods should be carefully placed on each side of

this section, so that the cap only will be in the water of the pond when filled. The sods should be "winged out" each way, so as to hold the puddle which must be carried up continuously to the top of the upper section. The sod work can be carried up gradually on the same slope as the upper section of sluice, and at the same time the other end of the ditch can be carried up with dry earth, keeping the same constantly at least a foot away from any part of sluice, the lower slope of which must be entirely surrounded, and the entire space between both slopes kept filled with thin puddle. Of course a bucket will be required to bail water from the collector over the sod bank while the puddling progresses.

EMBANKMENTS.

I will now proceed to give general instruction for the construction of hydraulic embankments. When the site for the same has been fixed, a trench three or four feet wide must be excavated the entire length, down to a firm foundation, and all roots and other debris thrown out. This trench must now be filled with clear, pulverized earth, (or soft mud,) and all the water side of the embankment carried up with the same material, while all sods, &c., must be thrown to the outside of the embankment. The foundation trench should be nearest the water slope, so that the fine earth may settle together and thus become impermeable to the passage of water. If the water of a pond is to be four feet deep at the collector, the bank should be carried up five feet high at this point, which establishes the level for the entire bank. At this point, the embankment must be fifteen feet wide at the bottom and five feet wide at the top, and the top width should be maintained the entire length of the work, while the bottom will vary according to its varying height, being always three times as wide as the height. These dimensions leave the slope of the banks at an angle of forty-five degrees, at which angle dry sand and fine, dry earth will No masonry or lumber, beyond that already mentioned, should be used in the construction of carp pond embankments, except in extreme cases when outside waters are liable to wash them. Masonry and wood work afford burrowing and hiding places for muskrats. After the embankments have been constructed, as directed, all those portions below the water-line can be covered with broken stone, small cobble stone, oyster shells, or tin scraps, either of which will effectually prevent the depredations of those pests. Another good plan is to use

cave.