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decorated with small images, and real or artificial flowers. Images of porcelain seem particularly adapted for this purpose; and the proper decorations are peculiar objects of good taste. In England it is not uncommon to see a splendid silver vase, containing a few oranges, or a sallad, placed in the middle of the table, with, perhaps. two smaller vases at either extremity, filled with similar articles, or with bottles of favourite wine. Nothing can be more void of taste, as the contents do not correspond to the richness of the vases, and a statue of clay might as well be mounted on a horse of gold. A bottle of wine, a few oranges, or a sallad, can never delight the eyes, the chief intention of the plateau, and the vases are only profitable to the silversmith. It was at the marriage of Louis XV. in 1725, that the first sanded plateaux appeared at Paris. Desforges, father of the celebrated author of the Jealous Wife, Tom Jones at London, &c. introduced artificial verdure with great success. The son was no less remarkable as an actor and dramatic poet, than as the author of the very singular and erotic Memoirs of his own Life, in eight small volumes, under the title of Le Poete, ou Memoires d'un Homme de Lettres. Little temples were added by Dutofy, who also invented artificial fire-works in miniature, delighting at once the eye and the smell.
The custom of dining without the attendance of servants, is warmly recommended by M. Grimod, who justly observes that they throw a constraint over the conversation. He recommends the use of numerous dumb waiters, and that the servants should only bring in the services.
The custom of visiting during the dinner, not uncommon at Paris, seems contrary to every rule of true politeness, as it disturbs the guests, and prevents the enjoyment of the repast. But the French talk so much during the dinner, that one would conceive they are anxious not to know what they are eating. The want of carpets in a French dining-room forms also, as already mentioned, a great and unhealthy inconvenience.
The hour of invitation is marked in three ways. If it be a six heures, it is understood that the dinner will be served at seven; if six heures precises, it is half after six; if six heures trés precises, it is an invita tion for six o'clock exactly. The art of arranging the guests, so that the characters and conversation may correspond, is regarded as the height of good breeding.
Among the finest wines of France are esteemed Clos-Vougeot, Romanée, Chambertin, S. Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Vosne, Nuits, Beaune, Tonnerre, Mâcon, La Fitte, Château Margot, S. Julien, S. Estephe, Pic-Pouille, Tavel, S. Giles. The white wines are those of Montrachet, Mursault, Pouilly, Chablis, Sillery, Pierry, Ai, Sau. terne, Grave, Barsac, Condrieux, Hermitage, Côte-Rotie, Rhenish, Moselle, Bar, &c. The sweet wines served at the desert, are those of Lunel, Frontignan, (which we call Frontiniac) and Rivesaltes, which last is esteemed the best. That of St. Peray, near the Rhone, which the eye cannot distinguish from water, is also excellent. The foreign wines are those of Malaga, Alicante, Xérès (Sherry), Pacaret, Madeira, Clazomène, Constantia, Calabria, Tokay, Lacrima Christi, 3 T2
Canarie, &c. Nor should that called the wine of Syracuse be omitted. When it is considered that all the French wines have different and peculiar flavours, more or less acceptable to the stomach at particular times, and with various aliments, the luxury may be compared with our very homely port wine and claret.
The ordinary wines common at Paris, are often those of Orleans, which rather load the stomach; and those of Lower Burgundy, which are also known under the name of Macon, though they chiefly come from the neighbourhood of Auxerre. These last are often healthy, nou. rishing, and generous, without be ing in the least heady. But, at the best tables the ordinary wine is sometimes of a bad quality. The beer at Paris resembles our table beer, but is always in bottles. There are two kinds, the white and the red, the malt used in the latter being higher dryed. What is called double beer, approaches to our strong beer, Bierre de Mars, or March beer, is the most esteemed, and advertised at every public-house, though it can seldom be found within. The signs are often singularly improper; one of the best brewers of Paris lives at the Incarnation of the Word, in the
Great quantities of cyder are brought from Normandy by the Seine, and lodged on the quay of the Louvre, where the venders may be found in a kind of sentry boxes. Another quay on the other side of the town, is often loaded with thousands of barrels of wine, from Auxerre and Orleans. As the Normans do not make good keeping
cyder, it is a winter drink at Paris, being always made in the preceding autumn. For the Parisians, who love sweets, it is also mixed with honey, &c. so as to be a corrupt and unwholesome beverage.
The coup du milieu is a recent re finement, which has passed from Bourdeaux to Paris. It is thus described by the modern Apicius.
Between the roti and entremets, that is, about the middle of dinner, you see at Bourdeaux the door d the dining-room open, and a young girl appear, between the age eighteen and twenty-two, tall, fair, and well made; with features bespeaking affability. Her sleeves are tucked up to her shoulders; and she holds in one hand a tray of ma hogany, replenished with glass and in the other a decanter of Ja maica rum, Wormwood wine, or that of Vermouth. This Hebe go round the table filling to each guest, and then retires in silence."
The glass is thought to restore th appetite to its original vigour.
The French liqueurs form and ther article of their luxury; even those of the isles or West In dies are sold at less than one quarter of the price which they bear in Lo don. The variety is also great; but many deservedly refuse this luxury, and even coffee. M. Gri mod observes that "coffee, mixed with milk or cream, forms a com mon breakfast of nine tenths of the Parisian females, in spite of the is conveniencies which result from it habitual use; the consequences which are prejudicial to their health and freshness, and often cause the infidelity of a husband or lover*"; After dinner, and simply prepared
* Being regarded as a chief cause of the fluor albus, and gonorrhæa benigna, so go
neral at Paris.
with water, coffee is thought to assist the digestion; but many find it on the contrary heating and prejudicial.
To such a pitch is luxury carried by some, that their cooks regularly take medicines, in order to preserve the fineness of their palate, and of their sauces.
Fromage, or cheese, is a lax term at Paris for any substance compressed. Thus a fromage d'Italie is a Bologna sausage, a fromage glacé is a kind of ice, &c. Animals killed by electricity are found to be singularly tender.
The French have only one term, confitures, for pickles and confections. The best preserved fruit at Paris is that of the julian, or green plumb, here called those of queen Claude, but in the time of the revolution they were cried through the streets, prunes de la citoyenne Claude.
The master and mistress of the house generally sit opposite to each other, at the middle of the table, not as with us, at the head and foot. They can thus converse with all the guests, and see that a proper attention is paid to each. The soup is distributed on the right and left alternately; and if there be few or no ladies, it is passed from hand to hand, so that the nearest are the last served. In some houses glasses of sugar and water are presented two hours after the dinner, in order to assist the digestion but it must be drank by mouthfuls and slowly, otherwise the intention will be defeated.
Three or four hours after dinner, the guests escape one by one, and in silence; for to take leave would be thought as impolite as not to make the ceremonial visit,
of tacit acknowledgment, within a week after the dinner. Healths are rarely drank, but it is usual to clash the glasses as a token of intimate good will. Twelfth cake, and the king and queen of the bean now re-appear. On the birth-day of the master the servants often exhibit little fire-works.
The author of the Almanach des Gourmands has wisely added a chapter upon indigestion, from which there are not a few sudden deaths at Paris. A beautiful lady died suddenly after a copious breakfast of oysters and new bread. This Arbiter elegantiarum advises slow mastication; and he well observes the di versity and caprice of the stomach, which may be very strong in some respects, yet weak in regard to certain foods.
According to his decision, a great dinner is composed of four services : 1st. the soups, the hors-d'œuvres, relevés, and entrées; 2d. the roast meats and sallads; 3d. the cold pastry and entremets; 4th. the desert.-The superiority of the French cookery is thus visible even in the language; and I know not that any translation has been attempted.
Among the fruits of France the peaches are excellent and cheap. The smooth peach, which we call nectarine, is common, and is called brignolet; but that called the teton de Venus, which ripens towards the end of August, is preferred. The pears are also excellent, especially the cresanne and bon chretien. The most excellent grape for the desert is what is called the chasselas de Fontainbleau, which over a golden colour presents a rich bloom. The best apples are, the rainette, calvel, 3T3
api, &c. In the autumn, 1804, rainettes, weighing more than a pound, and of excellent flavour, were brought from Tressancourt, two leagues beyond St. Germaine. The chesnuts of Lyons are large and celebrated. Almonds ripen at Paris, and are highly beneficial to the stomach, by diminishing acrimony from bile or other causes. In the form of orgeat they become a febrifuge. Figs and melons, as already observed, never appear at the desert, but accompany the boiled beef.
The Wednesday club consists of Jovers of good cheer, who assemble at Le Gacques's, in the garden of the Tuilleries. The perpetual pot of the street Grands-Augustins, is said to have been in activity for more than a century, and is always well replenished with capons. Green pease are preserved in salt; when boiled they are thrown into cold water, which restores their freshness and colour; they are then warmed with butter and sugar. Sugar also is often used with spi
The best oysters come from Dieppe, Cancale, Marrêne, Etretat, and Grandville. Cahors is cele. brated for partridges, wine, truffles, eels, cheese, and fine bread; and is thus of singular eminence in Apician geography.
Gluttony is of all ages. A little boy, in the middle of a great re. past, having no longer any appetite, began to cry; being asked the cause, "Oh (says he) I can eat no more;"" But put some in your pockets."-"Alas, they are full," replied the child A little girl hearing a conversation, whether
gluttony or liquorishness gave the most pleasure, said, "I prefer being liquorish, because it does not take away the appetite" Children, and even women will pocket sweet. meats from the table, while in other countries such a practice would sa vour of very bad breeding. Alter eating eggs it is usual to break the shells, a fragment of ancient superstition, as it was thought that witches made use of them to pro cure shipwrecks.
The bustard, and the cock of the woods, or in French, of the heath. about the size of a peacock, are not unusual in the shops of eatables at Paris. The latter is chiefly from the mountains of Vosges.
So much for the luxury of the ta ble; the luxury of the houses is often extreme, particularly in the boudoir. Windows over the fire place were invented for a farmergeneral, who was confined by the gout, and wished to enjoy the prospect of his garden The luxury of equipages is on the increase, but that of beautiful jockies must be passed in silence, though known even by advertisements in the news. papers. The worshippers of Venus, or, as they are here called amctcars, may at Paris gratify every taste and caprice with females of all countries and complexions; moral liberty being complete, and aberrations only reprobated by ridicule, while civil liberty does not find the c mate so favourable. Nor must the luxury of the theatres be forgotten, particularly the grand and expen sive opera: so that, in this respect, Paris probably rivals ancient Rome, or any other luxurious metropolis, ancient or modern.
Account of Joanna Southcott, from
In the early part of the thirteenth century there appeared an English virgin in Italy, beautiful and eloquent, who affirmed that the Holy Ghost was incarnate in her for the redemption of women, and she bap. tized women in the name of the Fa. ther, and of the Son, and of herself. Her body was carried to Milan and burnt there. An arch-heretic of the same sex and country is now establishing a sect in England, founded upon a not dissimilar and equally portentous blasphemy. The name of this woman is Joanna Southcott; she neither boasts of the charms of her forerunner, nor needs them. Instead of having an eye which can fascinate, and a tongue which can persuade to error by glossing it with sweet discourse, she is old, vulgar, and illiterate. In all the innumerable volumes which she has sent into the world, there are not three connected sentences in sequence, and the language alike violates common sense and common syntax. Yet she has her followers among the educated classes, and even among the beneficed clergy. "If Adam," she says, "had refused listening to a foolish ignorant woman at first, then man might refuse listening to a foolish ignorant woman at last :"-and the argument is admitted by her adhe. rents. When we read in romance of enchanted fountains, they are described as flowing with such clear and sparkling waters as tempt the traveller to thirst; here, there may be a magic in the draught, but he
These letters are supposed to be some reputation,
who can taste of so foul a stream must previously have lost his senses. The filth and the abominations of de. moniacal witchcraft are emblematical of such delusions; not the golden goblet and bewitching allurements of Circe and Armida.
The patient and resolute obe. dience with which I have collected for you some account of this woman and her system, from a pile of pamphlets half a yard high, will, I hope, be imputed to me as a merit. Had the heretic of old been half as voluminous, and half as dull, St. Epiphanius would never have persevered through his task.
She was born in Devonshire about the middle of the last century, and seems to have passed forty years of her life in honest industry, sometimes as a servant, at others work. ing at the upholsterers' business, without any other symptom of a disordered intellect than that she was zealously attached to the methodists. These people were equally well qualified to teach her the arts of imposture, or to drive her mad ; or to produce in her a happy mixture of craziness and knavery, ingredients which in such cases are usually found in combination. She mentions in her books a preacher who frequented her master's house, and, according to her account, lived in habits of adultery with the wife, trying at the same time to debauch the daughter, while the husband vainly attempted to seduce Joanna herself. This preacher used to terrify all who heard him in prayer, and make them shriek out convulsively. He said that he had sometimes, at a meeting, made the whole congregation lie stiff upon the floor
written, in fact, by an English author of 3T 4