Page images
PDF
EPUB
[blocks in formation]

178

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

JOURNAL.

CHAPTER XVII.

Landing at the Point where Captain Cook was killed-Native Huts -The Rattle-stick Performer-Incidental Notices-Entertainment by American Captains-Coast Population-Mr. Young-Idolatry abolished in the Sandwich Islands, in 1819-Intoxication and Smoking-Native Amusements-Salt-works-Licentiousness-Irregularity of Seasons-Providential Deliverance from the Upsetting of a Whale-boat-Want of Water-Sterility of the Land-AnimalsCooking-Canoes-Various Sandwich Notices-Landing at Oahu -Introduction to Rihoriho, King of the Islands, and his CourtAmerican Missionaries.

April 2. WE landed this morning near the point where captain Cook fell, and were conducted to the rock on which he stood when he received the fatal wound. It is part of the volcanic scoria which encrusts much of the surface of this section of the island, and occasionally runs out, as here, into the sea. A small native house, and some stunted cocoanut trees, are the land-marks of a spot at which the eye of every stranger who visits this coast will look with intense curiosity and interest, and of which every reader of the voyages of the great circumnavigator will have his own ideal picture; and this, however little like the reality, must be far more distinct than such creations of fancy often are, from the minute descriptions of the scene, and details of the tragic event, repeatedly given to the public by the eye-witnesses of the latter and the visitors of the former. We need not dwell on either. The bay is about three miles across in the widest, and two in the narrowest, direction.

[blocks in formation]

14

THE RATTLE-STICK PERFORMER.

The neighboring village consists of about sixty huts; all, except two or three, exceedingly mean, and the circumstances of the inhabitants proportionably wretched. We crept into one of these hovels, through a hole in the side, which required that we should stoop nearly double to get admittance. Though all was slovenly within, there were various articles of domestic convenience, such as calabashes, stools, mats, &c. Observing, among other things, a stick rather neatly fashioned, five feet long, and tapering to a point at each end, with a hole towards one of these, we inquired the use of it. On this, the master of the house, an old man, started up, and produced a companion-stick, something shorter, which we found was to be to it what the bow is to the fiddle. Grasping the first by the middle, he began to beat upon it with the second; while a boy, with two other corresponding sticks, did the same, to something like measured time, which the master kept with his left foot. miserably monotonous clatter of sticks, which was any thing but music, was accompanied, by both minstrels, with noises which were any thing but singing; the old man, all the while, writhing his limbs and distorting his visage in the most grossly ludicrous manner, which it would be as difficult to describe as it. will be to forget. Brutes never make themselves ridiculous; that is the peculiar prerogative of men. The former, in their strangest vagaries, act according to nature; while the latter, in trying to go beyond her, render themselves contemptible in the eyes of others, just in proportion as they excel in their own.

This

Proceeding along the beach, over an immense bed of lava, we arrived at a marae of great extent, now neglected, and falling into ruins. It consisted of an inclosure of rough stone walls, a hundred feet square, and six feet high, within which cocoa-nut trees are growing, and idol-images stood. Two of the latter remain on the north-east side. These are notched posts, twelve feet high, across the middle of each of which something to resemble a human face has been carved, of monstrous size and uncouth features, once regarded with awe and veneration worthy of men who could think such bugbears divinities. They affect to know better now, and profess to have renounced all their idols. To say the truth, they have done this literally; but their escape from the superstitions of their ancestors as yet amounts to no more than this-that he who formerly worshipped an idol, "which is

« EelmineJätka »