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176

DESTRUCTION OF AN IDOL.

the end, he himself was transformed into a canoe; when, being out at sea, in a great storm, and carrying a crew of islanders, the hollow of the vessel was filled with liquor, which, being baled out with calabashes, proved to be his blood, and quickly discolored the sea, from which, however, it was carried into the air, and diffused over the morning and the evening clouds, to add to the glories of day-break and sun-set. Whether the canoe was metamorphosed back again into the god, does not appear, but Taroa's skeleton, after his mortal career on earth had been run, was laid upon the land, the back-bone upwards, and the ribs resting upon the ground. These became a house for all the gods, and, thenceforward, the idol-temples, in Raiatea, were open sheds, consisting of thatched roofs, supported on posts, according to the cagelike model of Taroa's relics.

Pahi, the chief judge, and one of Tamatoa's brothers, is said to have been the first of any of these islanders who dared to burn his gods. Being at Tahiti, during the first awakening there, when the gospel had laid hold of the hearts of many people, though the struggle between light and darkness, nature and grace, was very sharp, and the issue doubtful-one night he dreamed that an exceeding large and fierce cat had pounced upon him, and torn his face in a shocking manner. He awoke in great consternation, but falling asleep dreamed the same thing again, and a third time. He then said to himself, "This is my varu ino, which has disturbed me; I will destroy it." Next day, persevering in his purpose, he seized the log of wood which he had heretofore worshipped, threw it into the flames of his oven, and baked some bread-fruit with it. The idolaters were astounded at his audacity in burning his god, but more so when they saw him eat the bread-fruit, which he took out of the hot ashes, not only with impunity, but with a good appetite. Pomare, at the time, was very angry with Pahi, for what he had done, but soon afterwards imitated his example, and thus set one to his subjects, which they failed not to follow.

April 22. Two land-crabs, of a singular species, which are found only upon a motu nine miles north of Borabora, were sent to us. The natives call them ua. These two were of different sizes and colors; the one red, the other blue; but they were alike in form. The larger was eleven inches long from point to tail. The head, which is oval, measured three inches, and is armed with a strong spike in

[blocks in formation]

front, as well as furnished, on either side, with a pair of sensitive antennæ, each of which branches off into two, towards the extremity. Under the spike are the eyes, set in two projecting tubes, each a full inch long. The body is flat and oval, widest towards the tail, and about twice the size of the head. The abdomen, which is secured by a tough shell, is brown, and, in the animal which we opened, was full of ova. The main claws, in our specimen, were of unequal bulk; the largest extended to eight and a half inches: two inferior ones, also equipped with pinchers, but not exceeding five inches, were placed in the rear of the body. Between these weapons of war, or implements of labor, in procuring subsistence (as occasion might require them for one service or the other), are four legs, two on either side, each consisting of four joints, and terminating in a straight sharp claw. On these, when the creature walks, it elevates itself, as on stilts, being thirteen inches long, and raising the body at least a foot above the ground, on which it moves with considerable, though awkward, facility. The tail, much resembling that of a lobster, has joints which allow it to be folded under the body.

These

These animals live under the cocoa-nut trees, and subsist upon the fruit which they find on the ground. With their powerful front-claws they tear off the fibrous husk; afterwards, inserting one of the sharp points of the same into a hole at the end of the nut, they beat it with violence against a stone till it cracks; the shell is then easily pulled to pieces, and the precious fruit within devoured at leisure. Sometimes, by widening the hole with one of their round gimbletclaws, or enlarging the breach with their forceps, they effect sufficient entrance to enable them to scoop out the kernel without the trouble of breaking the unwieldy nut. crabs burrow in the earth, under the roots of the trees that furnish them with provision-prudently storing up in their holes large quantities of cocoa-nuts, stripped of the husk, at those times when the fruits are most abundant, against the recurring intervals when they are scarce. We are informed that if the long and delicate antennæ of these robust creatures be touched with oil, they instantly die. They are not found on any of these islands except the small coral ones, aforementioned, of which they are the principal occupants. The people here account them delicious food.

April 26. Having settled our official concerns, we believe, to the satisfaction of the missionaries and their congregation

178

DEPARTURE FOR TAHITI.

of Christian believers, after solemn deliberations on several points, both of personal, local, and general interest, early this morning we went on board the small vessel which was to convey us, accompanied by Mr. Orsmond, to Huahine. Having a favorable gale, we reached the settlement, in Fare Harbor, about noon, and were received, as at our former visits here and every where else we have been, with the kindest demonstrations of joy.

May 1 and 2. These were "red-letter days," in Huahine, or rather to be remembered in the calendar, according to another mode of registering days of distinguished happiness -by depositing a white stone among the black, red, brown, and other colored ones that were laid up, in succession, to keep the tale and designate the character of each in the year. On the former was held the annual missionary meeting; on the latter the revised code of laws, corresponding, in most respects, with those adopted in the adjacent islands, was read and adopted after due discussion. Among other remarks, made by the various speakers, one observed, "The law will never do us any harm unless we break it; then, indeed, like a serpent, it will turn again and bite."

CHAPTER XXIX.

Embarkation for Tahiti-Captain Duperrè in Matavai Bay-Tomb of Pomare-Three Thousand Persons attend Divine Service at onceMissionary Meeting-First Stone of Chapel laid at Papeete-Feast on that Occasion-Rites formerly used on laying the Foundationstones of Maraes and royal Residences-Unsettled State of the Government of Tahiti-Houses tabued-A Tradition-An EarthquakeNames and Abode of first native Converts-Punishment for drinking Ava-Captain Riggs, his Escape-Ferocity of Marquesans-Winter Temperature of Tahiti-Birth-day of young Pomare.

May 5. OUR visit to the leeward islands being now completed, we embarked on board the Endeavor schooner, captain Dibbs, for Tahiti. Mr. and Mrs. Barff and their children, Mr. Orsmond, Mr. Platt, with the kings Mahine and Mai, accompanied us.

May 12. After a weary week of alternate calms and thwarting winds, at sea, in accomplishing a voyage which, under favorable circumstances, may be performed in twelve hours,

CAPTAIN DUPERRE IN MATAVAI BAY.

179

we had the inexpressible pleasure to reach the harbor of Papeete at noon. Here our Tahitian friends once more bade us welcome to that island of the west, whose celebrity, in the journals of former navigators, had attracted the attention of the world to hundreds of others, scattered over the face of the Pacific, forming at entire class of countries, peoples, and tongues, intimately akin to each other, but considerably different from all previously known regions in their inhabitants and their languages.

A French corvette of discovery, La Coquille, being at anchor in Matavai Bay, captain Duperrè, its commander,* accompanied by a young gentleman who speaks English, came on shore and was introduced to us. The ship left France eight months ago, being furnished with all requisite means to effect the objects of its voyage by the liberality of government. The captain and his companion appeared much surprised and delighted with the present state of things at Tahiti, so different (and so superior in the best sense of the term) from what they expected to find, after reading the accounts of Cook, Bougainville, and other early visitors.

May 14. This being the time appointed for the annual meetings of the Missionary Society, to be held at Papaa, in the great chapel built by the late Pomare, we sailed from Papeete thither, in the morning. As we approached the landing-place, long lines of people-men, women, and children-in their various picturesque dresses, were walking along the beach towards the place of resort, or coming in streams out of the openings between the mountains, while multitudes of canoes were pulling up the lagoon towards the shore. We proceeded to the house of the present king, Pomare the Second, which stands close by the sepulchre of his father. The latter is a small plastered building, seventeen feet long by twelve broad, with windows on each side, and a wide entrance at one end. On the floor stands the tomb, a stone structure, with a wooden roof, three feet high, but occupying nearly the whole interior area of the house. Herein is deposited the coffin of Pomare, which is of great size; but it is understood that, since interment, the bones of the deceased king have been removed into another box, which is in the keeping of some of the principal chiefs, that, in case of war breaking out at any future time, these relics may not fall into an enemy's hands.

* Admiral of the French fleet on the expedition against Algiers, in 1830.

180

FOUNDATION-STONE OF CHAPEL LAID.

The young king (only three years of age), attended by Aimata his sister, and her husband, proceeded with us to the chapel, the prodigious dimensions of which have been formerly stated. There the space being too narrow in proportion to the length, and the multitude too great for any human voice to be distinctly heard throughout, Mr. Orsmond preached to one portion of the audience (probably a thousand persons), and Mr. Barff to the remainder (about two thousand); the former from Isaiah xi. 6—8, “The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb," &c.; and the latter from Matt. xv. 32, "And Jesus said, I have compassion on the multitude." The utmost stillness and attention prevailed, and, without disturbing each other, both congregations were edified by their respective preachers. Even when they sang at one end, so great was the distance between, that the voices were not unpleasantly heard at the other. The officers of the French corvette, and all the principal chiefs of Tahiti and Eimeo, were present. After forenoon service, dinner was provided at the king's house for the visitors, among whom we were included. Mr. Nott preached in the after

noon.

May 15. The meeting for transacting the missionary business was held this day. Mananao, the regent, was called to the chair. Various resolutions were passed, and speeches were made, by natives as well as the missionaries. The contributions consisted of bamboos of cocoa-nut oil, balls of arrow-root, baskets of cotton, hogs, &c., and were very considerable.

June 5. This day the foundation-stone of a new chapel was laid here (at Papeete) by young Pomare, in the presence of the queen, his sister Aimata, and her husband, the missionaries, the deputation, the native chiefs, and the inhabitants of this district. The ceremony was accompanied with hymns of praise, a dedication-prayer, and a discourse by Mr. Crook, from the words, "Other foundation can no man lay than that is laid, which is Jesus Christ." 1 Cor. iii. 11. The greatest order and quietness prevailed; the people sat upon the ground, under the shade of overspreading trees.

A feast upon the usual magnificent scale was prepared, of which a thousand persons partook. The provisions were -divided into portions, according to the various classes of guests, namely, the royal family and chiefs, the missionaries and the deputation, the enrolled members of the church of

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