20

LICENTIOUS VISITORS.

triumphs of the gospel in the history of human wickedness, in any age or part of the world. It is painful to add (as we have intimated before,) that for this very cause, the gospel and its other triumphs are evil spoken of by many Christians (falsely so called) who visit these seas, and are filled with rage, disappointment, and malice, when they find that they cannot riot in licentiousness, as former voyagers did, on these once polluted shores; therefore do they abhor the change, and calumniate those who have been instrumental in its production.*

April 6. This island has no regular dry and rainy seasons, such as are usual between the tropics. Planting and sowing go on as fruits and harvests come in. Fresh water is very scarce; there being none near the coast, so that what is used must be brought from considerable distances, and generally from the high lands. The principal mountain is seldom entirely divested of a coronet of snow, and sometimes the upper region appears altogether clothed with a splendid mantle of the same. Our Tahitians, whom the missionaries could never make perfectly to understand how water could become solid, were much delighted with the first view of snow and ice on this elevation, and proposed climbing thither to bring away, and take home with them to Huahine, some of the hard water. Whenever rain falls upon the peak it freezes; and on the slopes, whenever there is a shower, calabashes are placed under the slanting leaves of fara and other trees, to catch the precious moisture as it drops from the extremities. In some instances we have seen the keels of old canoes fixed in a sloping position, having the hollow side uppermost, to conduct the water into vessels placed at the lower end. To-day, when we called at a native cottage on the declivity, an old man gave us a delicious draught of water, which he had brought home in a calabash, as he told us, a long way. The whole of this portion of the soil being crusted over with volcanic matter, there is no possibility of digging wells by such implements as the natives employ.

*It is satisfactory to know that the same moral improvement has since followed the introduction of the gospel into the Sandwich Islands; while it is melancholy to add that the change has, in some instances, brought upon the missionaries and natives the most shameful outrages, from individuals bearing the name of Britons as well as Christians.-Compiler.

PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE.

21

April 7. We went on shore in a whale-boat, belonging to one of our new friends, an American captain. Besides the boat-steerer and oarsmen, there were with us our two personal attendants, natives of Huahine, whom we had engaged to accompany us on our voyage to the Sandwich and Marquesan islands. On both sides of this bay there is always a turbulent surf, fluctuating with greater or less vehemence, alternately, on the north and on the south shore. On the latter, where we intended to land, the surge was breaking, at this time, with full fury. The vessel lay about a mile from thence, and the steersman of the boat directed her course right thitherward, without asking any question. We doubted not, therefore, that he had been previously on shore, and well knew what he was about. But when we came upon the larger swells, seaward of the breakers on the reef, what was our dismay to hear the inconsiderate fellow asking us where was the best place to land!—as if any thing could then be done in the midst of peril so imminent as that into which he had blindly led us-except to dart (if possible) over the surf, with the head of the boat kept right towards shore. Mr.Tyerman, who was seated at the fore-end (unaware of the consequence of swerving a hair's-breadth on either hand), pointed to a spot at some distance, and said, "We landed there yesterday."-Mr. Bennet must supply the sequel. "The stupid steersman immediately brought our long, narrow, and shallow boat, nearly broadside against the swell, and the next moment it was completely upset. Sitting at the stern, and foreseeing, as I did, this inevitable result of the sudden tack, I laid fast hold with both hands of the cross-seat (or thwart, as the sailors call it), that, as I could not swim, being my only resource, though how my life was to be saved by it I did not consider in the instinctive act of self-preservation. I felt a sharp wrench in either arm as the boat turned over, and held me under it, suspended by the hands, in darkness, and amidst the weltering water. I found that I could just continue to breathe, while I buoyed myself up so as to keep the top of my head close to the inside of the boat, except when the dreadful rushes of the sea broke under, and for a moment filled the hollow of the inverted vessel, sometimes dashing into my face, sometimes booming against the back of my head.

Here

"Once more, as on a similar occasion (November 12, last year), in the south Pacific, I felt perfectly assured that

22

PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE.

I was about to enter into eternity, for the boat was afloat in deep water, and I being completely concealed beneath it, none of my companions, if they had escaped, or were even swimming about, could see where I was. I also recollected

that there were numberless sharks, always on the scout, in this bay. I, therefore, committed myself at once, and with entire resignation, to that merciful and faithful Creator at whose bidding, I was fully persuaded, I had come hither from England; nor did I feel any regret that I had come, because I believed that I was in the path of duty. During this brief but dreadful interval, which seemed an age of suspense, something suddenly clasped me round the loins ; I recoiled with inexpressible horror, imagining, at the first touch, that my body was within the jaws of a shark, whose fangs I expected instantly to feel cutting me asunder at a crash. But experiencing a softer pressure, and a gentle pulling, I carefully put down one hand, and found that they were human arms, not a sea-monster's jaws, that enfolded me; in fact, they were the arms of my faithful, pious, and affectionate Tahitian attendant, Purahah. Readily then I loosened my other hand, and committed myself to his strength, dexterity, and courage, to bear me through the breakers. He did so triumphantly, and set, me on land unharmed, except a little nauseated with having taken in some large draughts of salt water. On asking Purahah how he happened to discover where I was, since I must have disappeared from among my companions, he answered, 'I looked on this side, and on that side, and on every side, and when I saw that you were not any where about, the thought grew up in my heart-perhaps he is under the boat; so I went and looked, and found you there.' These people, as we have repeatedly observed, are half-amphibious, and from habit can see almost as well under water as out of it. I have no words to express my gratitude to God, my Savior, for this new deliverance. Ought not the dexterity and affectionate devotion of such a servant to be honored? I need not add how lively and grateful are the recollections which I must entertain to the end of life of the noble form and olive countenance of my heroic preserver, when he stood up before me after having thus accomplished my deliverance. I had the happiness to find my friend Mr. Tyerman safe on shore. He had been flung out from the head of the boat, where he was sitting, among the breakers, but his Tahitian

STERILITY OF THE LAND.

23.

and the seamen, having leaped out before the overset, they saved both themselves and him, at no other inconvenience than a thorough drenching of their clothes, and a temporary but truly terrific alarm. Mr. Ellis, our missionary friend, was not with, us. Afterwards, when we saw the American captain who had lent us the boat, he expressed sincere sorrow for our misfortune, and hearty congratulations on our escape."

April 9. Though the climate of the Sandwich Islands is fine, yet the soil, generally, is much less productive than that of the Society group. The volcanic devastations have rendered great tracts of land utterly sterile for ages to come. The higher eminences are less affected by this evil; consequently the largest trees, and the most luxuriant vegetables, grow on their slopes or in their sunny hollows. There, also, are found the purest springs of water. We have seen few insects here, except a species of ant, black and very small, two or three moths, as many dragon-flies, and several kinds of common flies, resembling those which most abound in England. We heard a singing-bird among the mountains the other day. To our ears, long unaccustomed to such music, the notes were very sweet, and carried us home with awakened affections. A beautiful red paroquet, much like a bullfinch, and a green bird, the size of a sparrow, are frequently seen. Domestic fowls, common in the southern islands, are scarce here, and very inferior. The hogs and dogs, though the favorite animal food of the natives, are wretched creatures, and at this time of drought are many of them half famished.

Observing several small companies seated on the rocks over against the harbor, and engaged apparently in cheerful conversation, while others were preparing different repasts for them, we had the curiosity to examine the utensils, materials, and manner of their cookery. In the smaller cavities were reservoirs, from three to six feet in diameter, the sides and bottoms of which were lined with leaves, containing a thin kind of pudding-batter, to the depth of three inches, which persons were stirring about with their fingers. This was composed of taro, reduced by hand to the consistency of pulp, after having been baked, and then mixed with water. To us the taste was perfectly insipid, but, poor as such food must be, the people look well. We remarked the preparation of another dish, scarcely more savory—a yellow

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DEXTERITY IN SWIMMING.

ish kind of bark, which a woman was pounding to powder in a wooden trough. An oven for roasting sweet potatoes next attracted our notice. It was differently formed from the earth-bedded ovens of Tahiti, being a hollow domeshaped pile of stones, within which the fire was kindled, and kept up till the whole structure was sufficiently heated. A man was employed in making a canoe near the same place. In this art these islanders excel. The bottom was the trunk of a tree, carefully hollowed out; over which the sides were raised of light-colored planks, skilfully fitted together, and bound with cinet. The principal tool with which this simple shipwright wrought was a small adze, and it was surprising to note with what precision he used it, seldom missing a stroke. Canoes thus constructed look very neat, being formed of different colored woods, besides being remarkably well shaped, and adapted to desultory and coast-navigation. They are all furnished with outriggers, which are absolutely necessary to prevent them from upsetting, the bottoms being deeply concave, and the ends high and peaked.

The people whom we have seen were generally tatooed, an operation performed here very early in life. The goat is the favorite figure, which they bear on their legs and arms; but the artists are not so expert as those of the Society islands, neither are the designs so curious, nor are the colors so clear and delicate, as the latter employ and ex

ecute.

There are fewer personal deformities met with in this island than we have been accustomed to see elsewhere, with the exception of many hideous ulcers, and some horrid ravages of that disease which is the consequence of profligacy. The women do not swaddle their new-born infants; several we have seen, without any covering, held by their mothers on their arms, across a little mat. Men, women, and children, of course, can all swim, and delight to refresh themselves, even to weariness, if the expression may be allowed, in the water. One day an old woman being on board of our vessel, while her little canoe was rocking at some distance on the waves, when she wished to return ashore, made no more ado than to leap overboard, and swim to it; but, arriving at the wrong end for entering without danger of capsizing, she instantly dived under, re-appeared on the