tions, schools, hospitals, &c. at Samarang, on the preceding days, we set out this afternoon for Solo, a hundred miles off, in a south-east direction. This part of the island has been much distracted lately, in consequence of a dispute between the Dutch government and a native prince who was disposed to resist its authority. We have been warned that the road is still infested with banditti; but, deeming it our duty, as far as may be prudent, to see for ourselves the extent and circumstances of this vast uncultivated field of paganism and Mahommedan error, that we may judge how far attempts may be made to introduce the gospel among its multifarious population, we determined to proceed till we had stronger reasons for fear, accompanied by an official guide, whom the governor was so polite as to appoint to us. We were lodged and entertained with the most frank hospitality by Mas Reo Singuorano, head man of the village of Boeilale, a Mahommedan. Here we felt ourselves under the protecting providence of God, on the declivity of a volcano, great part of this village being built upon lava, in the middle of a country where civil war was raging-military preparations were going on around—robbers were prowling about--and the inhabitants were keeping watch all night, to repel aggression upon their families and their property. But we remained in peace. The city of Jockcock, the second in Java, is the centre of the present rebellion. The sultan is a child, and it is said that his two guardians, in his name, have excited commotion, for the perfidious purpose of finding, in the course of popular excess, some pretext for dispossessing him of his rights, seizing the local government for themselves.

and

Our host, among other rarities in his possession, with peculiar pride and pleasure showed us his criss, or family_dagger, which he assured us was three hundred years old. This, as well as the points of his spears, arrows, and other weapons of war, were poisoned so inveterately, according to his account, that no length of time could wear out their deadly virulence, killing with a scratch almost as surely as with a deep wound. He says that this pestiferous contagion is communicated to them by the heads of venomous serpents, crushed and laid upon the steel till they become putrid; after which, by some acid, the malignant matter is irremediably fixed there. When the servants of this grandee presented any thing to him, it was upon their bended knee, and with most humiliating deference. The distinctions of rank in Java are

DESCRIPTION OF SOLO.

29

rigidly observed. Sovereign princes, we are told, always speak to their subjects in the same language, but they, according to their situations in life, reply in different dialects; probably this may mean no more than such etiquette in speech as prevails between superiors and inferiors in Europe.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Arrival at Solo--Description of that City-Enormous Cannon-Emperor going to the Mosque--Deputation introduced to the EmperorCeremonies and Amusements in the Palace-Sumptuous Repast-"God save the King"-Reflections-Samarang-A Cavern-A Grotto-Cheanjor-Upas-tree-Return to Batavia-An Incident-Mr. Deering Coffin-dealers--Javanese New Testament--Chinese School —Origin and Progress of an Insurrection-Idol Temple-Mahommedan Superstition-Chinese Block-printing-Rice-food--Chinese Festival-A peculiar Village-The Javanese and their Masters-English highly esteemed-Feeble Effects of Religion in Java-Tradition respecting Budhu.

Aug. 5. WE reached Solo in safety, guarded, however, from our last station by five horse-soldiers, and accompanied by five travellers, who availed themselves of the escort. This city stands in the midst of a fertile plain, and is watered by a noble river flowing through it. The population is reckoned at a hundred thousand, of whom there are said to be not more than five hundred Europeans, nearly all Dutch. There is a large fort belonging to these in the centre of the town, surrounded with a wet moat, having four draw-bridges, and mounting fifty cannon.

Adjacent to this is the residence of the personage who bears the title of emperor-a very equivocal one, while foreigners are masters of the whole of his dominions, either by sovereignty or influence. Many of the native chiefs we have observed on horseback, or in gorgeous carriages, in the streets, with their trains of servants on foot; one carrying his lord's betel-box, another his spitting-dish, another a superb umbrella over his head-his personal dignity being signified by the color of the latter, or the metal of the former.

We found here Mr. William Stavers, brother to captain Stavers, of the Tuscan, with whom we came out from England. He was very courteous to us, and conducted us to the imperial palace, into the apartments of which, however, we were not permitted to enter, but were allowed to drive round

30

EMPEROR GOING TO THE MOSQUE. \

the courts. In the first of these are two cannons of vast magnitude; the one measuring eighteen feet, and having thirteen and a half inches calibre; the other is somewhat less. They are of brass, with a Javanese inscription on each. Near these are two other pieces of ordnance: these are iron, and of equal length, but smaller bore. Hard by are the dens of three royal tigers, fine, ferocious animals, deserving the name which they bear, as the brute representatives of eastern despots, bloodthirsting and untamable. In another court a small square roof, or canopy, projects from the adjacent wall, and under it are two flat stones, on which the emperor's throne is fixed on public occasions. Near this is a railed platform, sufficiently elevated to allow his majesty to witness occasional fights of wild beasts in the yard. In another court is the greatest curiosity in the empire, if it be not belied. This is the sacred cannon, raised upon a stone pedestal, covered with rich silk, and wreathed with perennial garlands of flowers that never die, though it cannot be said that they never fade, being artificial, and very pretty for the work of mortal hands. This marvellous piece, on a certain occasion, is said to have discharged itself, without even being loaded, by which feat it killed a whole gang of traitors at once, who were twenty miles off; but what is more extraordinary still, if our memory and our information be correct, the ball, when it had done this notable execution, returned to its place in the gun. We are not bound to reconcile the two ends of this story; but, no doubt, the one is as true as the other, though in palpable contradiction.

Aug. 5. We had an opportunity of seeing the emperor on his way to the mosque. He rode in a magnificent carriage, preceded and followed by a large retinue of servants and soldiers, with flags flying and instruments of music sounding. A younger brother alighted first from the chariot, bearing a golden spitting-dish before him. His majesty, who is a graceful youth, about eighteen years of age, was dressed in loose black robes, flowing down to his feet, which were without stockings, and sandalled. He walked with much. dignity, bearing a sword, with a golden scabbard, in his right hand. We were not permitted to enter the mosque while the royal worshippers were there, though we had seen the interior yesterday. The place for service is a hundred and twenty feet square, besides a spacious veranda all round it; and beyond this there is a broad moat, in which devotees

INTRODUCTION TO THE EMPEROR.

31

wash their feet before they tread the holy place. We observed nothing particular within, except an immense drum suspended, for what purpose we did not learn. In the front court of the palace, opposite to this mosque, criminals are usually executed. Murderers there suffer the same kind of death as they have inflicted, and are shot, speared, or otherwise dispatched, according to circumstances.

In the evening we were sumptuously entertained by the resident governor and general de Kock. A large party of civil and military gentlemen and their ladies were present, all of whom appeared interested in the missionary intelligence which we gave them.

Aug. 6. Having expressed a desire to be introduced to the emperor, at the governor's table last night, his Excellency procured us that honor, this morning; himself, general de Kock, and other distinguished officers, all in carriages, accompanying us. Alighting at the first court belonging to the royal residence, we walked through that and two beyond, which were thronged with thousands of spectators-all kept in perfect order by native soldiers on duty. In the fourth and centre court, where the palace stands, the military pre sented arms, and let fall their colors, in honor of the goyernor and the general, under whose convoy we were admitted. The people were all sitting cross-legged, having their persons, in general, uncovered as low as the chest. We found the emperor in this fourth quadrangle, enthroned on a stone platform which was raised four steps from the ground, and supported by pillars, low and open on all sides. As we approached the presence, his majesty rose up, and advanced to the margin of the platform, where he took the hands of general de Kock and the governor, and bowed graciously to the rest of us, who were in their train. General de Kock, as deputy governor of the whole Dutch possessions in Java, was placed in a chair of state, on the emperor's right hand, and the resident local governor in an ordinary one on his left. Three rows of chairs were ranged on each side, in front of these, to accommodate the Dutch officers and ourselves, on the right, and the native courtiers and nobility on the left. The emperor wore a black vest, close at the neck, and reaching to the waist; below which a Javanese cloth, dark brown, spotted with white, descended to the mid-leg ; his stockings were light-colored, and his shoes black, with gold buckles. He had on his head a conic-shaped hat,

32

THE EMPEROR'S COURT.

without brim, of a chocolate color, and encircled with bands. The only extraneous ornaments about the royal person were three brilliant stars of jewel-work upon his breast. The throne was nearly four feet square, covered with yellow silk, and splendidly fringed and flowered with gold; the legs also appeared burnished gold; and the height convenient for sitting upright, which his majesty did with great dignity, though there were neither elbows nor back to rest upon. A sword in a gold scabbard lay at his side, and a superb criss hung in a belt behind him. When all had taken their stations, the sovereign conversed affably with his distinguished visitors, the general and the governor, for some minutes. Tea, coffee, sweetmeats, and wine, were then successively handed round to the company. Whenever the emperor drank, he touched the glasses of the two gentlemen on his right and left with his own, and then looked graciously round upon the rest of us, as though he were pledging his guests. On his left hand, at the distance of twenty paces, the foldingdoors of the royal apartments being open, discovered great magnificence in the furnishing and embellishments.

Out of these rooms presently issued a number of dancinggirls, who, crouching down, and working their way on their heels, in spite of the impediments of their long dresses, and awkward attitude, seated themselves on a platform just on the outside of the folding-doors, and over against the emperor. Near them were placed a band of Javanese musicians, and a multitude of singers. On the emperor's right hand, another band, also Javanese, but with European instruments, appeared. The girls were not more than fifteen or sixteen years of age, sumptuously apparelled; those parts of their persons which were exposed-as the face, neck, arms, and legs were stained of a delicate yellow tint by means of a liquid prepared from sandal-wood and perfumes. When the musicians and singers began to play and chant, the girls rose slowly from the ground, making many graceful and significant motions with their arms, hands, and heads. These were at first very slow, never violent, and always simultaneous, as though the tunes or the burthens of the songs put one spirit into the whole-such a perfect consonance appeared in all their gestures and attitudes, while their countenances changed not for a moment their expression, or rather their passionless quietude of aspect. In most of their gesticulations the girls made use of a beautiful scarf,