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with choultries, and within these is the traveller required to find his shelter and provision, from Pulamanair to Bangalore, about a hundred miles. They have been erected by the government of the country for the convenience of travellers: a cottagelike building, containing a middle room, two side ones, and a deep verandah, from which are detached the offices for cooking, and all are enclosed within a fence. They are generally kept clean and free from intrusion by an invalid sepoy, who has his pay from government; and the head man of the village, the cotwal, attends to see that no overcharge is made for provision. Rice, fowls, and curry-stuffs are the readiest supplies for the wayfaring man. Mysore sheep and their mutton is as good as is the Welsh or Scotch black-face-may also be procured, but the traveller must wait till it has been killed. A scene occurred to our party which will illustrate Eastern travel. We had reached Colar, and had travelled Dawk, or Tappal, that is, we had posted the journey by relays of bearers. We had, therefore, gone far a-head of our Cavadi coolies, the porters who carried our culinary supplies; but we were hungry, and had nothing to eat, and found our only alternative would be to cast ourselves upon the local purveyor. A good fat fowl was roasted upon a wooden spit; rice was boiled in an earthern chattie, or pot; and a curry-stuff was prepared in true Hindoo style. All was ready to be brought in; but we had no table except the convex top of our palanquin; we had no vessel to hold the rice except our wash-hand basin; we had no plates except the leaf of the banian or fig-tree; and no knife, or fork, or spoon, or divider. One took one leg, and another took another, and pulled them asunder, and so with the other parts; we had to dip our fingers into the rice, in native fashion, and mix it with the curry-stuff as we could; the salt was as blue as slate, and as hard almost as granite, and we had to retain it in the mouth till it melted. The supper was not without its amusement; but neither is it without its instruction. Such is the state of domestic comfort in one of the most commercial cities of the Mysore country! Such is the social condition of a people hitherto subject to Brahminical and Mohammedan influence! Colar was the capital of an extended province subject to the Mohammedan sovereign of Bejapore, sometimes called Vigayapore, and though it depends on artificial irrigation, it is fertile and well cultivated: on the edge of a valley a dyke is built, so as to form a large tank, or lake; the dyke or bank is half a mile in length, and is filled by the rains of the monsoon. It is sufficient to water all the lands of the valley during the dry season. The bund, or bank, of this lake reaches to within half a mile of Colar. This town has long been a thriving emporium of trade, from which the imports and productions of the coasts were disseminated through the interior districts. The disastrous effects of war were not felt here as at other places of traffic in the Mysore. The town is distinct from the fort. The fortifications or ramparts rise twenty-five feet high, and exhibit a square form of about a quarter of a mile on each face. Each corner was defended by an angle, with an embrasure for three guns; on the centre of the north side was a bastion; and the whole was surrounded by a fosse, braye, and dry ditch. A few soldiers, about forty, were the only military force while the rajah reigned, but there was no cannon in the place. The town is composed of one large street, with lanes branching from it; the shops are on both sides of the wayit is an Indian bazaar-the way is narrow-the houses are low, like the booths at an English fair, and the purchasers numerous. Goldsmiths and braziers, and florists and nurserymen, the sellers of flowers and coloured powders, occupy the most prominent places; provision and fruit shops, drug and cloth merchants, mingle with them. Some native gold is found mixed with the soil, and all who can adorn themselves with jewellery. The culinary vessels of the natives are made of brass. Almost all females, and the dancing girls especially, wear flowers in their hair, &c.; and the powders are used for marking the forehead by every Hindoo.

In the vicinity of Colar two attractive objects present themselves not unworthy of notice - a Mohammedan mausoleum and a charity choultrie. They are distant from the town about a mile, on opposite sides of the road. The tombs are the depositories of Hyder Ali's ancestors and paternal kindred. The grandfather and his wife, the father and five of Hyder's brothers, are entombed in one mausoleum, which is a plain, low room. On the outside of this building are other tombs of more distant relations. They stand in a garden, within. a gate, and attached to them is a musjid, or house of prayer, and a large stone tank. Around, and in different parts of the garden, cypress trees of great size grow most luxuriantly, and give to the scene a sombre aspect. Arabic prayers are recited by mollahs, or priests, who are accounted holy, and constantly attend in their place of worship; other Moslem functionaries are in regular attendance to sprinkle flowers over the graves, and to light lamps in the vault by night. It was the policy of the British conquerors to continue certain endowments granted by Hyder for this purpose. On the opposite, the left-hand side of the road, stands a lofty building, where about 150 people receive food every night. There seems to be some connexion between this charity and the mausoleum; music continually sounds here, agreeably to the custom observed at all Mohammedan tombs. The Mysore government was the ostensible almoner of this charity, but the British government was the guarantee for its permanence. We shall come to Hyder's own tomb elsewhere.

The road toward Bangalore is truly beautiful, passing through rows of trees of diversified name and foliage; the soonkesari was most conspicuous by its fragrance and lily-white flower. For many miles it seems as if the soil were peculiarly favourable to trees and herbage. The walnut, the banian, and the mango, spread their branches, and stretch out their boughs, so as almost to cover the road, and shade the traveller under an alcove; and the aloes shoot up their spiral branch; while the milk hedge, ramified, its branches like coral, and growing to the height of twenty or thirty feet, give a verdure and luxuriance to the highway most grateful to the eye of a traveller. When the trees are in blossom they perfume the air with the sweetest odour, and vary the appearance of the foliage with fine effect. The country to the right and left is most richly fertile, and the scenery, interspersed with mountainous ridges, or isolated hills, gives the open cultivated plains a more varied and pleasing character. Here and there, across the road, festoons of flowers, and strings of cloth, stretched from side to side, show that some great personage, the governor of Madras, or the British resident at Mysore, has been travelling this road. This is a mark of distinction either willingly rendered by the servile and dependent Hindoos, or exacted by the governing authorities, to remind the people of their subject condition, and the supremacy of their English conquerors. On my arrival at the bungalow of Ooscotah, I was suffering under the most oppressive and agonizing headache; so rending did the pain feel, that I could find only temporary relief by the application of a tight bandage. Travelling by day, and functionary derangement of the

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