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almost to adore, this fair and truly beauteous child; while his cherubic infancy inspired the delusive hopes that my son would become a substitute for his mother, so far at least as a companion, to occupy the affections, and preserve them from the entire void, which bereavement had produced. A few more weeks, however, and the flower was cut down and withered. Ere the fragrance of the sweet plant had passed away, his remains were deposited beside the beloved and now mouldering mother. They are my richest inheritance in the dust of India; and, were my years multiplied a hundred fold, the spot where they rest would continue sacred; nor do I fear but all that was mortal of them shall become immortal, and their corruption shall become incorruptible and glorious-the grave is only a temporary veil to the love, sweetness, goodness which shone in their person!

These two bereavements had more than a casual influence on my future course. I lingered round the scene, rather than wrought in it, as I had hoped to do: the place was endeared as a mausoleum; and often the desolate and heart-stricken went "to the grave to weep there." Familiarized with the person of death, rather than only a sojourner in the valley of his shadow, I was not reluctant to take my place in his bed, beneath the clods of the valley; and yet this was not right: there are "twelve hours in the day," and it is then that men ought to work. It was my duty to think more of the dying than of the dead; and, to rouse myself from this stupor, plans of activity in the region round about were devised and adopted. The claims of my countrymen in neighbouring stations, as well as of such Hindoos as I could hold intercourse with, were considered; and itinerancies to contiguous and more remote villages and cantonments were undertaken. Circumstances led me to cherish a desire to do good among the military ranks, and to seek their religious improvement. Opportunities most favourable to the indulgence of this disposition occurred, and I embraced them. In this path of duty, which became also a path of pleasure, the highest of all rewards was enjoyed in the attached gratitude of those who shared my affection, and in the instances of success which attended renewed efforts. Besides the barracks in Fort St. George, military and invalid stations were situated contiguous to the Presidency. The Mount, Poonamallee, Tripassore, Wallajahbad, and Arcot, were occupied by British troops or invalids; while detachments of native troops, officered by Englishmen, garrisoned the same places, or other contiguous stations, as Palaveram, Vellore, Arnee, and Cuddalore. To such places I made repeated visits, and either in them, or neighbouring stations, as Conjeveram, Chingleput, or Chittore, remained sometimes for a week or weeks, as the sphere of duty appeared to require. Some of these excursions I shall by and bye describe.

The modes of travelling were various, according to the time I intended to remain. My journeyings

There

in this land were never merely to visit or see the antique ruins, the picturesque grandeur, or the strongholds, which might attract the antiquarian, the man of refined taste, or the soldier. were no stage-coaches; many of the roads were unsuited to wheeled carriages; and I never travelled in such oriental state as to sit upon an elephant, or have my luggage carried by camels. Occasionally have I met these useful and sagacious animals with their loads, and admired their docility and submission. My shorter journeys were performed in a bandy, or covered gig, drawn by a single horse: if I went to a greater distance, and expected to return in a few days, my horse and his keeper sufficed for the way; but if I designed to spend some weeks on the tour, then the palanquin and native booies, or bearers, were required. This equipage has been already described, and is so familiarized to the English reader, that more than a few words is unnecessary to convey an idea of a travelling palanquin and its furnishing. Behind the cushion, against which the shoulders recline, there is a space which may be occupied with a few changes of linen, or rather cotton, and almost all a man's travelling apparel may be thus designated. There is room enough along the sides to stow away a few volumes of such literature as is most valued. At the foot is placed a shelf deep enough to receive a writing desk, a dressing case, two or three minor matters, a knife and fork, and one or two other conveniences or indispensables for the

traveller. Lashed to the pole outside is a basket frame, containing a goglet or earthen jar of water, a tumbler, and a bottle of brandy, generally esteemed a necessary appendage for the European traveller in this sultry region. The complement of bearers is twelve, and a massalchee or torch-bearer; with one or more cavery coolies, who are employed to carry, suspended from a split bamboo over their shoulders, two baskets containing culinary vessels for the traveller and his bearers, his tea and sugar, and other supplies, which bazaars by the way do not furnish. The bearers may be obtained of contractors, who are certified and registered at the police cutcherry, or office, which is an assurance against loss or disobedience; they may be hired by the mile, and to go a certain distance, or for the journey by the day, each man receiving three fanams, or sixpence for every ten miles; or if the traveller means to go dawk, or with speed, he can have relays of bearers posted at stages of ten or twenty miles; but one set of bearers will run forty miles for two or three successive nights, from sunset to sun-rise, if well used. They are, however, prodigal of their time, and if left to themselves will bring the traveller into disappointment and difficulties by their delays. I have awoke in the middle of the night, after a most laborious struggle with that fearful incubus the night-mare, apprehending that a powerful copra-de-capello had wormed his way through the bottom of my palanquin, and was about to pierce me, by the poisonous fang, which protruded from his hooded and circular form; and when I had recovered self-possession, found my palanquin set down in the middle of the highway, and every bearer sound asleep, lying on the open and unsheltered road.

In some of my journeys, I came into the vicinity of other travellers-men of influence and station; envoys, residents, and governors, in progress towards their appointments, on parties of pleasure, jungle-hunting, or other sport; or in tours of observation, or diplomacy. It is only then that the state and display, the pomp and circumstance of eastern magnificence are seen in South-Western India. For detachments of troops, bullocks, and sometimes camels, are the carriage cattle : elephants are above the mark of captains or subaltern officers for conveying tent furniture and commissariat stores. For field service, brigades under field officers, and European regiments, a few carriage elephants are supplied. It was an imposing spectacle truly, and, I suppose, was employed for that intent, to witness a governor's escort, his body guard, fifty or sixty camels, and six or eight elephants, traversing the country by slow and deliberate stages, and encamping in a tope of palm-trees, or under the shade of the banian. It requires some previous training before the horses will associate with confidence among the larger quadrupeds. I have seen my own horse draw back on the road side, and, with the hair of his body standing on end, shake and tremble like an aspen leaf, at the approach of the

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