114 HOSPITALITY OF MR. HOGAN. out an intimation to any one, our open-hearted friend ordered a repast to be prepared as speedily as practicable, at the best hotel in the place, to which, without any suspicion of the design, we were ushered by him, while on our way, as we thought, to join our own boats. The entertainment, though so hastily provided, was profuse and excellent in kind, and admirably cooked, with a great variety of the finest vegetables and exquisite fruits. The wines, of superior quality, had been ordered from his own cellar at the Almendral. The market of Valparaiso is the best on the coast; and whatever else may be said of Chile, Mr. Hogan assures us, that she can boast as good eating and drinking as can be found in any part of the world. The climate is at all times fine; and in the winter season, which is now just commencing, not surpassed in any section of the globe. This republic is said to be decidedly and greatly in advance of all the other South American states; and St. Jago, her capital, the most interesting and delightful city on the continent. Just at present, however, the country is politically in a disturbed state, from a strongly contested election for the presidency. The excitement and violence at the public meetings have been such, as in several instances to terminate in bloodshed and death. Still the foundations of civil pelity seem here more securely laid than elsewhere; elementary instruction, and means for the diffusion of knowledge generally, are in operation; and the policy of the government, both in its home and foreign departments, is better calculated than in any DEPARTURE FOR PERU. 115 other of the new republics, to promote internal improvement and an advancement in exterior relations. The warm and cordial manners and intelligent conversation of the venerable Consul-general, embracing much interesting matter from personal observation, not only along the South American coast, but in Europe, Asia, and Africa, enlivened by anecdotes of all parts of the world, and particularly of the naval service of the United States and of England, in which last he was himself a fellowmidshipman and messmate with the Duke of Clarence, heir-apparent to the British throne, caused the time to pass rapidly, till we were obliged to take a hasty leave that the ship might secure an offing before night. A view of the beach on which alone Mr. Hogan would consent to part with us, again reminded me of Honolulu. In addition to the various objects before enumerated, a sentinel on one of the angles of the ruinous castle on the precipice, the ramparts of which appear still to be partially fortified, with two or three figures seated on their feet like the natives, wrapped in thick mantles, imparted a touch of the picturesque; the purity of the air being such as to exhibit them in clearly defined and bold relief against the sky, which alone was to be seen behind them, so immediately were they over our heads. The evening was delightful, and while we rowed two or three miles to the frigate, lying off and on in stateliness and beauty, and long after filling away for Peru before a fresh breeze, we enjoyed magnificent views of the Andes seemingly near at hand, 116 ST. LORENZO AND their various icy peaks glittering like clusters of diamonds in the setting sun. LETTER XVI. ARRIVAL AT CALLAO. St. Lorenzo.-The St. Louis.-Alarming Accident.-United States Ship Vincennes.-The Frigate Brandywine.-Farewell Sermon on board the Guerriere.-Reflections. U. S. Ship Guerriere, at Callao, NOTHING of moment occurred on a passage of ten days, from Valparaiso to this port. The wind being mostly fresh and fair, we had a short run, but the weather generally was hazy and unpleasant. On the morning of the 18th inst. we expected to have made land in the vicinity of Callao before nightfall or early in the evening, but notwithstanding a fine moon, the atmosphere was so thick that we were obliged to heave to at an early hour and wait for the return of day. In the morning the weather was still lowering, with a mist almost like rain; and it was not till nine o'clock that the barren hills of St. Lorenzo, an island forming the protection of this harbour against the sea, began to break on the sight through the gloom. We were already north of it, and with the setting in of the ordinary sea-breeze, bore up in the direction of the anchorage: the main land, twelve or fifteen miles distant, being still entirely obscured. At the same time, a large sail was descried some five or six miles to the leeward of us, heading also for the harbour, which, as we neared each other, had the appearance of a man-of-war, and shortly proved to be the St. Louis, Capt. Sloat. She had been despatched from Rio de Janeiro, by Commodore Thompson, ten days previous to our sailing; but after a most boisterous and distressing passage round Cape Horn, only reached Valparaiso a day or two previous to the Guerriere, and had sailed again on her voyage to Peru the same morning of our call at that port. And thus, after a separation of more than two months, we still entered Callao, as we had left the United States, in company with each other. By two o'clock the shipping at the bottom of the bay with the broad pennant of Commodore Jones at the mast-head of the frigate Brandywine, was distinguished through the haze; and while partaking of a hasty dinner, the call, “All hands to bring ship to an anchor, ahoy!" echoed around our decks. Every face was beaming with brightness at the propitious termination of our long voyage, and in the punctilious silence rigidly exacted in bringing a man-of-war to anchor, I was yielding myself to thoughts of grateful adoration at the kind Providence, which had brought so large a company of us in health and safety over so wide a waste of sea, when the first order in lessening sail "furl the royals” was given by the commanding officer. It was scarce done before the hitherto unheard and appalling cry, a man overboard! a man overboard !" passed rapidly from the forecastle to the quarterdeck; and as the moment after it was known that 66 one of the crew had fallen from the fore-royal yard, a height of more than 150 feet, into the sea! a shudder of horror passed over every one, in the sion that he was utterly lost! persua I was standing at the moment on the signal locker at the stern, the ship moving at the rate of five knots, and had time only to turn round before the poor fellow rose struggling to the surface in our wake. He was stunned and strangling, and incapable of lifting up his face from the water, but still appeared to understand the calls of the officers, cheering him to every effort till assistance could be rendered. The life-buoys were already cut away, the ship ordered about, and two boats manned and lowering; but in the haste and excitement the tackles became entangled, the boats on touching the water were incapable of being unhooked, and the headway of the ship was still such, that in an instant both were filled and swamped! thus instead of one poor fellow struggling for life, fourteen of our number were in hazard of death! three lieutenants, one midshipman, and ten of the crew. I was blind with agony, and knowing that by remaining on deck, I should only be in the way of others in every possible effort for the rescue of such as might escape, I hastened to my state-room to give vent to the feelings overpowering me, in ardent supplication and tears unto the Hearer of prayer, that He would have mercy upon us-would spare us the judgments of His providence-and redeem from death the lives exposed to a watery grave. As to the poor fellow who had fallen from aloft, I |