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XVIII.

GOING DOWN EAST.

Salisbury, Hampton and Rye Beaches-Portsmouth-KitteryNewcastle Island-Wentworth House-Isles of Shoals-Appledore Star Island-Pirates' Haunts-Boon Island-Nottingham Wreck-Agamenticus-York Beach-Cape Neddick-Wells-Kennebunk River-Saco River - Biddeford and Saco-Old Orchard-Scarborough-Casco Bay-Portland-Cape Elizabeth-"Enterprise" and "Boxer" Fight -Sebago Lake-Poland Springs-Androscoggin RiverRumford Falls-Livermore Falls-Lewiston Falls-Brunswick-Bowdoin College-Merry Meeting Bay-Kennebec River-Moosehead Lake-Mount Kineo-NorridgewockMogg Megone-Father Rale-Skowhegan Falls-Taconic Falls - Waterville - Augusta-Lumber and Ice - BathSheepscott Bay-Monhegan-Pemaquid-Fort FrederickWiscasset-Penobscot River-Norumbega-Sieur de Monts -Acadia-Pentagoet-Baron de Castine-The TarratinesMuscongus - Camden Mountains - Rockland — Islesboro'— Penobscot Archipelago - Belfast - Bucksport — Bangor Mount Desert Island-Bar Harbor-Somes' Sound-FogsMount Desert Rock-Passamaquoddy Bay-Grand MananQuoddy Head-Lubec-Campobello-Eastport-St. Croix River-Calais and St. Stephen-New Brunswick-Bay of Fundy-High Tides-St. John City-Madame La TourRiver St. John-The Reversible Cataract-Grand FallsTobique River-Pokiok River—Frederickton-Maugerville -Gagetown-Kennebecasis Bay-Digby Gut-Annapolis Basin-Digby Wharf-Yarmouth-Annapolis Royal-Basin of Minas-Land of Evangeline-Grand Pré-Cape Blomidon-The Acadian Removal-Cape Split-Glooscap-Chignecto Ship Railway-Windsor-Sam Slick-The Flying Bluenose-Halifax-Chebucto-Seal Island-Tusket RiverGuysborough-Cape Canso-Sable Island-Truro-Pictou

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Prince Edward Island-Charlottetown-Summerside-Canso Strait-Cape Breton Island-The Arm of Gold-Isle Madame -St. Peter's Inlet-The Bras d'Or Lakes-Baddeck-Sydney -Spanish Bay-Cape Breton-English Port-LouisbourgThe Great Acadian Fortress-Its Two Surrenders-Its Destruction-Magdalen Islands-Gannet Rock-Deadman's Isle -Tom Moore's Poem.

NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH.

WE will start on a journey towards the rising sun, searching for the elusive region known as "Down East." Most people recognize this as the country beyond New York, but when they inquire for it among the Connecticut Yankees they are always pointed onward. Likewise in Boston, the true "Down East" is said to be farther along the coast. Pass the granite headland of Cape Ann, and it is still beyond. Samuel Adams Drake tells of asking the momentous question of a Maine fisherman getting up his sail on the Penobscot: "Whither bound?" Promptly came the reply: "Sir, to you-Down East." Thus the mythical land is ever elusive, and finally gets away off among the "Blue Noses" of the Canadian maritime provinces. We cross the Merrimack from Newburyport in searching for it, and enter the New Hampshire coast border town of Seabrook, where the people are known as the "Algerines," and where salt-marshes, winding streams, forests and rocks vary the view with long, sandy beaches out on the ocean front, having hotels and cottages scattered along them. Here are noted

Here

resorts-Salisbury Beach, Hampton Beach and Rye Beach-all crowded with summer visitors. For over two centuries on a certain day in August, the New Hampshire people have visited Salisbury Beach by thousands, to keep up an ancient custom. Whittier pitched his Tent on the Beach he has so graphically described. It was at Hampton village in 1737, that occurred the parley which resulted in giving the infant colony of New Hampshire its narrow border of seacoast. Massachusetts had settled this region, and that powerful province was bound to possess it, though the King had made an adverse grant. Into Hampton rode in great state the Governor of Massachusetts at the head of his Legislature, and escorted by five troops of horse, formally demanding possession of the maritime townships. He met the Governor of New Hampshire in the George Tavern, and the demand was refused. The latter sent a plaintive appeal to the King, declaring that "the vast, opulent and overgrown province of Massachusetts was devouring the poor, little, loyal, distressed province of New Hampshire." The royal heart was touched and the King commanded Massachusetts to surrender her claim to two tiers of townships, twenty-eight in number, thus giving New Hampshire her present scant eighteen miles of coastline. Rye Beach is the most popular of these seashore resorts, and not far beyond is Piscataqua River, the New Hampshire eastern boundary.

Here is the quaint and quiet old town of Portsmouth, three miles from the sea, and having about ten thousand people. Opposite, on Continental Island, adjoining the Maine shore, is the Kittery Navy Yard, where the warship "Kearsarge was built. Commerce has about surrendered to the superior attractions of a summer resort at Portsmouth, and the comfortable old dwellings in their extensive gardens show the wealth accumulated by bygone generations. To this place originally came the "founder of New Hampshire," Captain Mason, who had been the Governor of the Southsea Castle in Portsmouth harbor, England, and at his suggestion, the settlement, originally called Strawberry Bank, from the abundance of wild strawberries, was named Portsmouth. The Piscataqua is formed above by the union of the Salmon Falls and Cocheco Rivers, both admirable water-powers, serving large factories, and the whole region adjacent to Portsmouth harbor is bordered by islands and interlaced with waterways, some of them yet displaying the remains of the colonial defensive forts. At Kittery Point, near the Navy Yard, was born and is buried the greatest man of colonial fame in that region, Sir William Pepperell, the famous leader of the Puritan expedition that captured Louisbourg from the French in 1745. The noted "Mrs. Partington," B. P. Shillaber, was born in Portsmouth in 1814.

Adjoining the harbor, and with a broad beach fa

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