Page images
PDF
EPUB

review; the question of their moral influence, their relation to history, and delineations of religious character, was introduced; and the injustice committed upon the memory and reputation of the covenanters in Scotland, and puritans in England, was strongly reprobated. These colloquies led my host to mention his relation to one of the most distinguished of Scottish worthies, a Clydesdale champion for God's broken covenant, and his own oppressed country. Mr. produced a manuscript volume, written in the style of the seventeenth century, which he said he had never read, except a page or two, but he believed it concerned those trying times and martyred men. Within the second page I read, "But the times (of his birth) were extremely unhappy, because of a cruel, tyrannical, prelatical persecution, begun and carried on by the ever infamous Charles the Second, king of Britain, Middleton and Lauderdale in the state, and perfidious, treacherous Sharpe in the church. For, before I was born, my father, with others, being set on by the enemy at Pentland Hills, when they were standing up for the gospel, and was routed, and many of them slain," &c. I found what followed to be partly an autobiography of the writer, and partly the tale of his father's sufferings unto death. Thus will manuscripts of greatest interest travel, from Clydesdale to Mysore, or other lands even more remote. The possessor was persuaded to print the work, which occupied a hundred octavo pages, and bore the title, "Victorious Providence in His Divine and Triumphant Rays." It is a monument of pious gratitude, and a memorial to the riches of redeeming grace.

A few miles to the north, along the ridge of the Ghauts, resides the rajah of Panganoor. His style of rajah is higher in name than in possession; he might rather be accounted a landed proprietor, who is allowed by the English to enjoy one-fifth of the revenues of his land, and to pay the rest into the Company's exchequer. He was a polygar chief, but is prudent enough to perceive that servile submission to British supremacy is his most politic course. He has assumed the dress and manners of an Englishman, cultivates the language of the English, maintains a domestic establishment in imitation of an English resident, and whenever he can attract strangers of note to his palace, he appears gratified, and exerts himself to gain their approbation. I have been told of his appearing in top boots, and other parts of dress to suit. But he mingles, in a most incongruous medley, Eastern pomp with English fashion; elephants and horses, &c. He is much flattered by the attention of the local civilians, and comes forth occasionally in great parade to visit them at Pulamanair. There is a scattered native village, partly employed in agriculture, and partly dependent on the European residents; the population is not great about two or three hundred houses; the cultivation is of the various kinds of such dry grains as do not require irrigation.

The stages through the Mysore are provided

with choultries, and within these is the traveller required to find his shelter and provision, from Pulamanair to Bangalore, about a hundred miles. They have been erected by the government of the country for the convenience of travellers: a cottagelike building, containing a middle room, two side ones, and a deep verandah, from which are detached the offices for cooking, and all are enclosed within a fence. They are generally kept clean and free from intrusion by an invalid sepoy, who has his pay from government; and the head man of the village, the cotwal, attends to see that no overcharge is made for provision. Rice, fowls, and curry-stuffs are the readiest supplies for the wayfaring man. Mysore sheep and their mutton is as good as is the Welsh or Scotch black-face-may also be procured, but the traveller must wait till it has been killed. A scene occurred to our party which will illustrate Eastern travel. We had reached Colar, and had travelled Dawk, or Tappal, that is, we had posted the journey by relays of bearers. We had, therefore, gone far a-head of our Cavadi coolies, the porters who carried our culinary supplies; but we were hungry, and had nothing to eat, and found our only alternative would be to cast ourselves upon the local purveyor. A good fat fowl was roasted upon a wooden spit; rice was boiled in an earthern chattie, or pot; and a curry-stuff was prepared in true Hindoo style. All was ready to be brought in; but we had no table except the convex top of our palanquin; we had no vessel to hold the rice except our wash-hand basin; we had no plates except the leaf of the banian or fig-tree; and no knife, or fork, or spoon, or divider. One took one leg, and another took another, and pulled them asunder, and so with the other parts; we had to dip our fingers into the rice, in native fashion, and mix it with the curry-stuff as we could; the salt was as blue as slate, and as hard almost as granite, and we had to retain it in the mouth till it melted. The supper was not without its amusement; but neither is it without its instruction. Such is the state of domestic comfort in one of the most commercial cities of the Mysore country! Such is the social condition of a people hitherto subject to Brahminical and Mohammedan influence! Colar was the capital of an extended province subject to the Mohammedan sovereign of Bejapore, sometimes called Vigayapore, and though it depends on artificial irrigation, it is fertile and well cultivated: on the edge of a valley a dyke is built, so as to form a large tank, or lake; the dyke or bank is half a mile in length, and is filled by the rains of the monsoon. It is sufficient to water all the lands of the valley during the dry season. The bund, or bank, of this lake reaches to within half a mile of Colar. This town has long been a thriving emporium of trade, from which the imports and productions of the coasts were disseminated through the interior districts. The disastrous effects of war were not felt here as at other places of traffic in the Mysore. The town is distinct from the fort.

The fortifications or ramparts rise twenty-five feet high, and exhibit a square form of about a quarter of a mile on each face. Each corner was defended by an angle, with an embrasure for three guns; on the centre of the north side was a bastion; and the whole was surrounded by a fosse, braye, and dry ditch. A few soldiers, about forty, were the only military force while the rajah reigned, but there was no cannon in the place. The town is composed of one large street, with lanes branching from it; the shops are on both sides of the wayit is an Indian bazaar-the way is narrow-the houses are low, like the booths at an English fair, and the purchasers numerous. Goldsmiths and braziers, and florists and nurserymen, the sellers of flowers and coloured powders, occupy the most prominent places; provision and fruit shops, drug and cloth merchants, mingle with them. Some native gold is found mixed with the soil, and all who can adorn themselves with jewellery. The culinary vessels of the natives are made of brass. Almost all females, and the dancing girls especially, wear flowers in their hair, &c.; and the powders are used for marking the forehead by every Hindoo.

In the vicinity of Colar two attractive objects present themselves not unworthy of notice - a Mohammedan mausoleum and a charity choultrie. They are distant from the town about a mile, on opposite sides of the road. The tombs are the depositories of Hyder Ali's ancestors and paternal

« EelmineJätka »