weather, and only a rudimentary front seat, from which the driver's feet fall directly upon the whiffletree. As the name indicates, it is drawn by one horse, harnessed, not between shafts as with us, but at the left side of a pole, with a cat-a-corner sort of traction by no means economical of power. Behind is a "magazin," in which smaller articles of baggage are locked, larger trunks being strapped upon its top. This is the universal one-horse vehicle of Southeastern Germany and Austria.

We trundled out of the town and over the country road at a pace which was to consume three hours in making the fourteen miles' distance. Half an hour out, at a foddering and beer-drinking station, we fell in with a "Zweispänner"-a comfortable twohorse landan-returning to the hotel for which we were destined. Our driver made a shrewd contract, by which we were to be carried the remaining long pull for one-half of our three-dollar fare. The change was in every way advantageous. Our road soon left the Salzach plain, and led up the wild and beautiful valley of the Alm; up hill and down dale, past chalets with stone-laden roofs, past the little fields of peasant farms, through groves of fir and white birch, and along the brink of the rapid white-watered river. Frequent hay for beast and frequent beer for man are constant incidents of Tyrol travel. Every few miles the team must be drawn up for baiting, and the blue-eyed Kellnerin brings beer as a matter of course; but the beer is good and the fare is cheap, and the hours thus dawdled away are by no means lost to one who comes fresh to all this unaccustomed beauty and interest. Time

thus spent at way-side inns among costumed peasants here in the foot-hills of the great Alpine chain is time gained for the memories of all future years. We may have been three hours, and we may have been four hours, in going from Salzburg to Berchtesgaden, but should we live for fifty years, no time cau dim the charming recollections of that drive.

Scattered along the road at very frequent intervals are the shrines and stations and crucifixes with which this whole land is disfigured. To the South German mind the tears of the Virgin and the crnel bodily suffering on the Cross seem to be the only effective emblems of Christianity. Generally absurd, often painful, and always coarse, these tokens are too frequent to excite reverence, and can have little other effect than to maintain the routine of the formal observances of the Church. The Madonna often wears hoops of enormous dimensions; she frequently weeps behind a painted handkerchief; and in one instance, where she was of wood and of life size, she held the freshironed linen with printed border of our own time. So little does the real character of the Crucifixion impress itself upon the popular mind that it is by no means uncommon for the bleeding wound of the wooden Christ to be decked with flowers or ribbons on festival days. In one case a bunch of cat-tails was stuck between the knees. It is perhaps well for the tourist that these shrines occur so frequently, for their shock is weakened by familiarity, and one soon comes to pay little heed to them.

The valley of the Alm is too narrow, and offers too little chance for cultivation, for

early and look out from a front window of the Hotel Watzmann as the people are gathering for early mass at the old church opposite. The accompanying illustrations give the dress of the whole peasant community, not touched up for artistic effect, but precisely as worn. The maidens depend much on color and on their broad silver necklaces with gaudy clasps, but the men's dress resembles that with which we are familiar only in coat and shirt. The breeches are of black leather, with green cord down the seams and green embroidery at the hip and knee; they reach only to the top of the knee, and are so loose that in the sitting posture half the thigh is exposed. No stockings are worn under the heavy hobnailed shoes, but a very thick woolen stocking leg, often ornamented with green fig ures, covers the calf, the top being rolled down over the garter. For a length of about six inches at the knee the leg is quite bare, tanned and ruddy with life-long exposure in a climate of great winter severity. The hat varies but little from the form shown, and is decorated with feathers at the back-usually the half of a black cock's tail. This is the daily gear of these hardy mountaineers, and is the type of the national costume of the whole of North Tyrol. Nothing could be more artistic; but it must be a deeply planted artistic feeling which sustains the wearers in fierce winter weather. Grohman (Tyrol and the Tyrolese) says that at a wedding rifle match, when the thermometer was at 4° Fahrenheit, he saw men come in their shirt sleeves and with bare

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its agriculture to be more than the pettiest farming of a very poor and hard-worked people; but as it bends at last around the grand southern sweep of the Untersberg it widens out into broad and rich farms, overlooking which, occupying a high plateau, and itself overlooked by the gigantic Watzmann, lies the ideal Tyrolean village of Berchtesgaden. No doubt there are other places as charming, but none ever touched us quite so nearly as this. Its situation, its air, its evidence of having pleasure for its chief industry, and, above all, its picturesque people, combine to make it quite a village by itself. It has almost a suggestion of theatrical effect, greatly due to the marked, costumes of the peasantry, who form so conspicuous au clement of its population. Both men and women adhere to their national dress as firmly as though no Einspänner had ever brought a traveller from Salzburg to see them. On week-days it is sobered by the rust of long use, but it is still the same in its essential parts; on Sunday it is gay galore, and it is worth while to rise

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