twenty individuals; but the sole traces of occupation we came across were the decayed remains of a canoe, lying up one of the mangrove creeks that branch off from the strait. We remained here three days, all that could be spared from the time given to the cruise, and early on January 11th left for Port Blair. CHAPTER II PORT BLAIR We enter the Harbour-Surveillance-Ross Island Pastimes-Visit the Chief Commissioner-The Harbour-Cellular Jail-Lime Kilns-Phoenix BayHopetown-Murder of Lord Mayo-Chatham Island-Haddo and the Andamanese-Tea Gardens-Viper Island and Jail-The ConvictsOccupations-Punishments-Troops-Departure. A FRESH breeze from the north raised an army of dancing white-caps on the sea, as, rolling along with the wind astern, we made the run to Port Blair in about seven hours. Easily picking up the Settlement while some distance off, on account of its proximity to Mount Harriet-a pointed hill rising about 1200 feet—we came to anchor to the south of the jetty inside Ross Island, and were immediately boarded by one of the native police—a representative of which body was always on board during the day throughout our stay. This measure is taken to see that the crews of vessels in the harbour hold no communication with the convicts, and also for the prevention of smuggling. Soon afterwards the doctor and port officer came aboard: both these gentlemen seemed at first to regard us with some suspicion, and indeed by this time, more than two months out from port, we were certainly a rather ruffianly looking party. The island of Ross is situated at the mouth of the harbour, and tends greatly towards its protection. It is hilly, about 200 acres in area, and is divided into two almost equal parts by a wall running east and west across it; the southern portion is occupied by the barracks of the convicts, and the other contains the headquarters of the Settlement. On the summit stands the pleasant-looking residence of the Chief Commissioner; the church, and the barracks (architecturally modelled on Windsor Castle) for European troops; both the latter built of a handsome brown stone quarried on the mainland. Below these come the mess, containing a fine library and some beautiful examples of wood-carving executed by Burmese convicts; then the brown-roofed bungalows of the Settlement officers, all bowered in tropic foliage, amongst which graceful palms and traveller's trees stand prominently forth; and lower still, near the sea, are the treasury, commissariat stores, and other Government buildings. The whole place-in itself of much natural beauty-is kept in most perfect condition by a practically unlimited supply of convict labour. At first sight, it seemed an altogether delightful spot to find in such an isolated corner of the earth; but its melancholy aspect is quickly and forcibly brought home to one by a visit to the jail on Viper Island, and by the continuous presence of the convicts, who are rendered conspicuous by their fetters, or neck-rings, supporting the numbered badges by which the wearers distinguished. are As usual with our countrymen, "when two or three are gathered together " in distant portions of the world, plentiful facilities for outdoor amusements have come into being. There are cricket and tennis grounds-the latter both concrete and grass-near which a band of convicts discourses very fair music several times a week. There is a sailing club too, and nearly every Saturday throughout the year races for a challenge cup are held in the breezy harbour, at which a score of various craft are often found competing; and the Volunteer Rifle Corps has some thirty members, who compete with gun and revolver for a numerous list of prizes and trophies. Good salt-water fishing is to be had with the rod, for fish in great variety are everywhere abundant; and on the mainland, near Aberdeen, golf and hockey are played. With all this, it is probable that the gentler sex find things somewhat dull at times, for shopping, in the feminine sense of |