tecture was disposed in a manner that did credit to the directors, and so did the specimens of various national manufactures that were displayed before us. I thought of Sterne: "They order these things better in France"than-dare I say it?-than they are ordered in the model room of our Society of Arts. One consolation remains to us here. The French, although before us in the arrangements of their models, are behind us, for the most part, in the perfection of their machines. I think (but I have been opposed in this) that they excel, or at least equal us in chemistry and engineering. In all other things, except the gay and splendid, but superficial trinkets of the Palais Royale, they are in arrear. We are as much before them in most things of art substantially useful, as we are in horse-racing, or as they are before us in that elegance of manner which sweetens society and encircles every grade in it with the semblance at least (and it is a semblance, if it be one, well maintained) of well regulated delight. On our way to this institution, we had called at the National Institute, and found, to our regret, it was to be seen only on Saturdays and Sundays. I think, could I have seen Dupin, this regulation would have been dispensed with. The Halle au Bled, of circular form and very striking, next occupied our attention. This building was begun, as were most of the important national works in France, by Napoleon. Vast quantities of the most necessary of all needful articles of human life were piled within this rotunda, where much business had been evidently transacted in the early part of the day. I have said before, that the French are an early people, and one of their salutary customs is, that in all the markets all transfers and bargains of sale shall have been completed,

and the article removed by a certain hour in the morning, in order to give time and to cleanse, not the Augean stable, but the space devoted to the public for the next day's commerce. The Tower of Catharine de Medicis stands here; and here is an echo of remarkable distinctness, which, by the way, is not necessary to her name. The market of the Innocents next attracted us. Here we introduced ourselves to the fishwomen of PARIS, and had a fair opportunity of judging as to the amiable characteristics of their physiognomy. A more ferocious set of females never met my observation. They would do well for Amazons, if Amazons were I wont say what, for I may visit the Marché des Innocens again, and might fare the worse for being too explicit. I do not think that, amid the storms that broke over the hapless heads of Louis and Marie Antoinette, these were the least bitter ingredients in the cup of woe. The fountain in the centre of this market has a good effect, and adds much to the comfort and cleanliness of those connected with it. It is, perhaps, the handsomest fountain in Paris. I had the honour next to see the Clothes Market (the Rosemary Lane, upon a better scale, of France,) and then to contemplate the site of the Temple. The Temple itself, that edifice of history, is gone, and not a trace of it remains. Not so the remembrance, and the record of events connected with it. These cannot die, and after ages will judge better than the present, whether their celebrity is of good or evil. Through the market for flowers we passed to the Palais de Justice, where we were prohibited entrance, in consequence of some especial trial going on. We could not see the Conciergerie, but we saw several of the courts, and over the judgement-seat of all we saw, was the

crucifix, in carved work, or upon canvas. This may suit a Roman Catholic taste-it did not suit mine. I returned to Meurice's, and adjourned thence with my friends (P. and G. and Dr. and Mrs. B.) to Beauvilliers to dinewhence we again flitted to the Theatre Français. Here we saw Talma and Mademoiselle Mars. There are private boxes at this theatre, so private, that I think, had our O. P. rioters seen them, they would have rested satisfied with those of Kemble at Covent Garden. Till the rising of the curtain, a gen d'arme took post at each entrance into the pit, and then withdrew. The London theatres have, as yet, been attended by the soldiery outside the house. They may as well remain there. During the interval between our entrance into the house and the curtain rising, I was engaged with my friend P. discussing the comparative freedom of governments. It was natural, I believe it was also just, to award the highest point herein to England and America. It was courtesy-I think justice too, to concede the next rank to France (it would not have been so twenty-five years ago); and there was not much of risk in deciding that Germany deserved the next place on our list. I was going on in this copy of my notes, but I pause on the possibility of being quizzed, as my Lord Mayor and the Duke of Sussex were on their retirement to the cabin to settle the affairs of Europe! I dont like to be quizzed.

The piece performed (the only comedy we were told, in which Talma plays,) was the Ecole des Vieillards. Talma played the part of Danville, Mademoiselle Mars that of Madame Danville.

In this and the other theatres it was impossible to cast an eye upon the royal box, without remembering the

Consul and the Emperor, and the glory that at one time encircled him. Who, with recollection of past, and still recent events, could forbear to

Sigh o'er the nothingness of human fame?

The bones of James the Second had just been discovered in France, and it was thought necessary to re-inter them. Why, others wiser than I am know better than I do. Notice was given to the English to attend and pay respect to this notable Monarch's remains! I believe one Englishman, perhaps more, did; and I more than believe that many would have gladly attended a very different service for this said anti-protestant king. I have a great veneration for the reigning house of England, and the head of it stands high with me. His ministers, too, are, I think, men not to be condemned. They have done much, whether of their own free will, or at the somewhat sharp suggestion of others, I will not enquire; and the hope is that they intend to do more: but, notwithstanding, I cannot comprehend the policy or good taste of such extraordinary respect to the remains of a king who, because he could not reduce his people to political or superstitious bondage, abdicated his throne and ran away! Perhaps the invitation to attend was one of policy well arranged. It might be meant to show, a number of English being in PARIS, what the sentiments of Englishmen were; and if so, it succeeded completely.

The King of France was reported to be so ill to-night, as to give very slight hope of surviving till the morning. My friend S was with us for some time on our projected route, which, it was determined, should commence to-morrow at six o'clock.

To-day, amongst other places to which curiosity led

mé, I visited again the Palais Royale, and was recommended for any thing I might want to the shops of Watelin, 57, Panorama-passage, almost in a line with the Palais Royale, and Laurencot, 73, Palais Royale. These people have the reputation of fair dealing. If they deserve it, let them be encouraged.

10th. At half past six o'clock this morning, the sun shining as if favouring our journey, we left PARIS by the Barriere d'Italie, and passing through Villejing, Fromenteau, Erronne, (near which on the left is St. Assise, a chateau of the Duke of Orleans,) Ponthierry, and Chailly, we reached FONTAINbleau.

The country near PARIS presented nothing remarkable, but on our way hither it became, especially as we approached Essonne, very pretty. We passed the old town of Corbeil, and many chateaus and villages, that tended to enliven the landscape. The Onze and the Seine were occasionally within our view, and several French farmyards presented a good specimen of neatness and thrift. I have somewhere or other seen commendations of French sign painting. No ground of preference over the English in that branch of the polite arts has attracted my notice yet; and I would bear in mind, as an instance of equality, at least, the Grande Cerf at Ponthierry!

On leaving Chailly we entered the romantic forest of FONTAINBLEAU. Green lanes, cut through the umbrageous clothing of this extensive royalty, gave facility to the chace, or, barring now and then an attack from the wild boars of the forest, a delicious shade to the equestrain who loves such solitudes-whilst rude fragments of rock, rising in various shapes, and at unequal distances, add to the