Opposite the Hotel de Ville is a statue to the Duc de Guise, and another to Cardinal Richelieu. The former liberated CALAIS, the latter established its arsenal and citadel.

The church presented nothing very worthy of remark. Mass was going on in the presence of a large school of children, many of them very painfully put to it on their knees, and others relieving themselves as they best could by temporary expedients. A few old women and some young ones, with here and there a man, made up the congregation, and before these the priest at the altar was busy in exhibitions that seemed to my Protestant comprehension to be dumb show, or in rehearsals inaudible by my Protestant ears.

The mayor's court was open. I entered, and found a young advocate very earnestly engaged pressing upon his worship's consideration-the case of a helpless woman, who had been illtreated by her better half. He was aided, or interrupted, by his fair client, and she again was backed by a fair friend, who attended to see her righted—the man, when he could obtain a hearing, defended himself-the three counsel on the other side replied upon him-the audience laughed, and the mayor gave sentence against the offender, who I think deserved it; and I walked away admiring the order and regularity of the pleadings in the mayor's court at CALAIS.

It is tedious to be delayed when you want to get on, and I felt this the more as the hour for my departure drew near. At length, at six o'clock, I repaired to the diligence, and finding that a Frenchman and two French females, who had dined with us, were going by the same conveyance, I abandoned the cabriolet for the night, and took my seat

within. The Frenchman, a pleasant young man, spoke a little English, and the ladies not a word. A Frenchman who could not speak English, and a Scotchman who could, made up our party. The latter was proceeding to PARIS to pursue his medical studies. The rear of our clumsy vehicle was occupied by a man of Cumberland, who had just left the plough to repair to an uncle in PARIS, who was "well to do there;" and four or five students of Roman catholic theology from Ireland, who were on their way to the French metropolis to become, I suppose, more orthodox divines. We passed through the fortified and wellbuilt town of ST. OMER, whither Mr. Brougham and his colleague repaired on their unsuccessful mission to the laté hapless queen of England; and "all went well" with us till we arrived at the little village of ARC. It was between twelve and one o'clock in the morning when we reached, and were crossing the Pont d'Arc, when our postillion, thinking that his horses had endured enough, or that we, the passengers, wanted rest, effectually procured it for all, by running one of the fore-wheels against an abutment of this narrow bridge. We were all shaken from our seats, and soon discovered that part of the machinery had given way. It was close to a mill. The miller and his men came to our aid, and were soon joined by the carpenter and the mareschal d'Arc. The impossibility of going on reconciled us to the necessity of remaining here. We paced the village for some time, and watched the motions of the stream and the workings of the mill. Tired of this, however, the Scotchman and myself repaired to the miller's house and whiled away the time as we best could, with his company and wine. Both were better than, at such an hour and in such a place, we could have expected, and I

begged of our host (his name was Vebrache) one of his matches and a small portion of his tobacco to keep in recollection of him. The man was pleased, and between three and four o'clock, the damage having been repaired, we shook hands with the good-natured miller reascended the diligence and departed; not, though, till Monsieur le conducteur had obtained our signature to a paper, declaring him to be blameless in the matter, and had also refreshed himself with a portion of the miller's wine. The fellow did not deserve either, for he took of me eight francs in PARIS, when his whole pay, and that quite optional, need not have exceeded four francs and a half-although, when they behave well and respectfully, five francs are generally given.

It is well that travellers by diligence should remember that, between CALAIS and PARIS, more than five francs need not be given, and that any misbehaviour on the part of the conducteur would soon be settled by the mayor, who does not dwell long upon such complaints.

On the following morning, Saturday the 4th, I took my seat in the cabriolet between the fat and vulgar conduc teur and a spare thin-visaged, but good natured German, named Eckhart. I found he was a messenger from the Duchess of Kent, on his way to her seat at Armorbach in Germany-was going to PARIS for the first time, and had with him one of Mr. Canning's passports. General Wetherall had sailed from Ramsgate to CALAIS in the same packet with us, and was also on his way to PARIS. The messenger spoke well of him, and as highly of my friend Captain Parker, who had behaved, he said, very kindly to him on his first arrival in England.

The country, as we passed along, was well and neatly

cultivated; but, from fear of being neat overmuch, I suppose, in three different places, close to the road, we were annoyed by the carcases of horses left to putrefy in the sun. Decency might have suggested the propriety of their appropriation to some useful purpose, or at least their removal from the public highway.

At the town where we took our breakfast, the accommodations were very sorry ones, and with such difficulty could we procure that luxury of all luxuries to the traveller, water, that in the absence of better accommodation, I contented myself with a plunge into the trough out of which the horses drank. The town of POULANG has a citadel and old fortification, but here, as in many other towns, both of France and England, such defences are falling into decay.

2 At four o'clock we entered the fine, populous, busy city of AMIENS, and most of us regarding a sight of the cathedral more than our dinner, we alighted from the diligence as it passed by, and entered. We were well rewarded for doing so, even by the rich exterior of this splendid edifice, of which the engravings published in London present a very faithful representation. The interior, though not equal in its aggregate beauty to that of Rouen, surpassed it in the perfection of its altar, and of many of the statues and paintings that enriched and ornamented its walls. Much active commerce appeared to be going on at AMIENS, and I left it under an impression that it ranks high in importance as one of the wealthy commercial cities of France.

On our way thus far, we had passed through Ardres, LA RECOUSSE, ST. OMER, AVIE, LILLERS, PERNES, ST, POL, FREVENT, DOULENS, and TALMERS. From AMIENS

we continued our journey through HEBECOURT, FLEAS, BRETEUIL, WAVIGUIERS, ST. JUST, CLERMONT, LAIGUEVILLE, CHANTILLY, LUZARCHES, ECOUEN to St. DENIS.

Here it was, between eleven and twelve o'clock on Sunday the 5th, the scene changed at ST. DENIS, from the tame dulness and monotony of the country, to the ever varying activity of the suburbs of the capital of France. The postillion who took us under his guidance here, was, in

every thing but his jack-boots, an exquisite dandy, and flourished his whip and guided his fine horses, too, as dexterously and to as fine a point as could any of the whip club in London. Carts, that had been to PARIS with various articles of produce, were returning with their weary drivers in a sleep, from which our postillion's lash very quickly aroused them.-Carriages of every description, and full to an overflow, were conveying the happy-visaged, smiling Parisians to their Sunday enjoyments, and pedestrians, male and female, were thronging in the same direction, receiving ever and anon a nod and a smile from our postillion to cheer them on their way. The gaiety was new to me. I had seen nothing like it before, and it continued to increase till the diligence, taking its direc tion by the Barriere ST. DENIS, through the Grande Rue, a new street not yet finished, arrived safely at the Messagerie, rue Notre Dame des Victoires. I took a fiacre, and in a short time alighted at the Hotel Meurice, Rue St. Honoré. A stranger in PARIS, (and not likely to be known at the hotel,) I enquired for the two friends whom I had conditionally engaged to meet. They had arrived only at ten o'clock, and were out. I asked for a room-the hotel was so full that not even a room to clean and dress in could be allowed me.