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the troops on guard to allow themselves to be quietly relieved, took possession of the palace. Salasar immediately retired to his private residence in the city, and, in the course of the evening, La Fuenté arrived in the city, proclaiming himself—" The provisional supreme chief of Peru, till the meeting of congress." And all things went on, and are still going on, as if no change whatever had taken place.

Meanwhile Gamarra was accomplishing his part in the army, and is now, by the abdication and exile of La Mar, uncontrolled commander in chief. It is understood that the result of the whole is to be, the appointment of Gamarra to the presidential chair, while La Fuenté will be made vice-president, with the promise of succeeding eventually to the supreme office.

The people in general appear to have taken little interest in the change. The suffering, poverty, and various desolation brought on the city and whole land, by the revolutions and counter revolutions of the last ten years, have been such as to break down the spirit of every class; and few seem to care in whom the chief power is vested, so long as they escape further oppression and sorrow. It is the general sentiment both of foreigners and native citizens, that a military despotism in tolerable hands, if not absolutely necessary, is more desirable just at present than any other form of government.

After partaking of refreshments in a saloon at Mr. Prevost's, and making some preparation of dress, we directed our way, under the guidance of Mr. Radcliffe, the American consul, and his son, to the palace.— This is an extensive pile, forming the north side of the plaza or public square in the centre of the city,

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while the cathedral is on the east, and uniform ranges of houses, with shops under arcades on the ground floor, on the south and west.

It is a quadrangle occupying a whole block in the plan of the city, extending along three other streets the same distance it does on the square, and inclosing a large area filled with gardens and shrubbery, and various buildings for the accommodation of the public offices.

The exterior of the whole presents a decayed and mean aspect. The front on the square is occupied, on the ground floor, by shops of every description, while the second and only other story shows nothing but a range of the gloomy wooden balconies which disfigure all the dwellings in the city. A lofty and ornamented gateway, in the centre, alone gives it the appearance of a public building. The offices of the city and district of Lima, as well as of the various departments of the general government, being accommodated within the palace, a part only of the pile is appropriated as the residence of the president. This is the same as that occupied by the viceroys, during the dominion of Spain, and extends along the west and north sides of the quadrangle.

The building is said to have been erected by Pizarro, at the founding of the city, in 1536. The ground occupied by it is certainly the same, and the general construction may not since have been materially altered; but the frequent and extensive repairs which numerous earthquakes and the decay of time must have made necessary, have doubtless caused an almost entire substitution of material.

The nature of the present administration, an usurp-
VOL. I.

13

146

SALA OF ASSASSINATION.

ed military power, prevented any surprise at finding the patrolling sentry at the entrance, or in discovering the first hall, into which we were ushered, to be a guard-room lined with soldiers, and its walls covered with arms. At the farther end, on the north, three successive flights of broad steps, extending from side to side of the room, and each terminating on a platform or landing several feet wide, brought us on a level with the second story and in front of a massive folding door, opening into another apartment. This is the sala in which, according to common report, Pizarro was assassinated. Whether identically the same or not, will perhaps admit of a question; at all events, it is shown as such; and its location, in reference to the entrance from the street and stairs leading to it, answers well to the descriptions in history of that tragic scene.

It is about thirty feet square, and entirely unfurnished. A short passage running from the upper end to the inner side of the quadrangle, brought us into a lofty corridor a hundred and sixty or seventy feet in length, lined on one side by the state apartments, and on the other by a number of large windows, overlooking the gardens and shrubbery. A set of guards encircled a door at the farther end, which, on passing, we found to be that of the ante-room. An aid-decamp in waiting, after receiving us with much politeness, left us for a moment to announce the commodore and party to the president.

This gave time for a glance around. The apartment in which we were is spacious and well, but rather over furnished with pier tables and mirrors, chandeliers, sofas, &c. Some good paintings were on the

CABINET OF LA FUENTE.

147

walls, and amongst them two portraits, one full length of General San Martin; and the other, according to an inscription, that of his Excellency "El Almirante Christoval Colon." Three or four persons, in military garb, were lounging in an alcove at the upper end of the room, near a window overlooking the street on the north.

The aid soon returned, and led the way through a drawing room richly furnished in crimson and gold,

to the cabinet of the chieftain. He was seated on a sofa on one side as we entered, but rose till the whole number had been presented; then, placing Commodore Thompson on the sofa beside him, commenced conversation, while chairs were placing round for the rest of us. He is a small man, of thin habit and apparently in ill health; his complexion, eyes, hair, and mustaches, dark, with a mild and intelligent countenance and unassuming manners. He speaks Spanish only and the conversation which took place was marked, on his part, with much just observation and good sense. It turned principally on the object of Commodore Thompson's arrival, the relief of Commodore Jones, and the complimentary welcome incident to it; upon language and the comparative ease with which Spanish, French and English are acquired, &c. &c.

Having understood that he had been particularly indisposed the preceding evening, the commodore made his call short, and we soon took leave. In doing this he gave his hand courteously to each. His dress was a scarlet military coat, with collar and cuffs of blue, embroidered in gold; yellow buckskin pantaloons, and camp boots of black morocco.

148

HALL OF INDEPENDENCE.

It

The ante-room, as we left, was beginning to be filled with officers, assembling to pay their morning court. Mr. Radcliffe intimating that it might gratify the party to see the principal reception room, now called the hall of independence, we were shown into it. It occupies nearly the whole length of the corridor by which we approached the ante-room; and opens upon it by a succession of large windows. is a fine, elevated apartment, near one hundred and fifty feet in length, and about thirty wide, the ballroom of the castle in the time of the viceroys, and now the inaugural chamber; and the apartment in which the heads of government receive the congratulations of the citizens, on the anniversary of the independence of Peru.

A chair of state of classic and beautiful pattern occupies the head of the room: the frame is of gilt, and the cushions of crimson Genoa velvet. This was the throne of the viceroys; and has changed its name only; its place and use being the same as under the royal government. A large allegorical painting hangs against the wall immediately over it. The principal figure represents the genius of Peru, in the costume of the Incas; consisting of a tunic of yellow, drawn closely round the neck with short sleeves, and a girIdle at the waist. A mantle of crimson, tied in a knot upon the chest, flows behind from the shoulders; while sandals on the feet, and a band of gold around the head, surmounted by a coronet of feathers, complete the dress. In one hand is a shield; and the other points to a column, terminating at the top in a liberty-cap, on the shaft of which are the names of the republics of South America. At the base of this the

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