264 DECAY OF THE SYMBOLS OF IDOLATRY.

valuable, no doubt, for its note, as its plumage was not remarkably beautiful. Not even a servant was to be seen; and having with one or two others, left interpreters, chiefs, wizards and all, far behind, we were under the necessity of satisfying our curiosity by our own conjectures.

This situation afforded an open view of the river and continuance of the valley far into the mountains; and we were strongly tempted to prolong our walk farther. But, being already two or three miles from the beach, and separated from most of our party, we thought best to return. I first, however, secured a sketch of a temple and burial ground just above, with a hideous idol scowling among the dead from the midst of a thick clump of the pandanus-including a characteristic section of the mountains towards the head of the valley-and was far from regretting the few minutes occupied by it, when afterwards informed, that the temple was that at which human victims are chiefly immolated.

With the exception of one or two places of the kind, nothing is more manifest in their aspect than the fact, that the images are literally crumbling into dust and ashes. The decay resting upon them, rendered more conspicuous by their deformity, seems already to proclaim the approach of the period, when, with all the "idols of silver and of gold, which every man hath made for himself to worship," these too shall be cast "to the moles and the bats," and be trodden under foot in perpetual neglect and abhorrence. To me the sight was most gratifying, adding assurance to the impression already received, that nothing more is needed, even here, that the dawning of the "light of life," to scatter the spiritual darkness resting on the land, like the vapors of the morning before the rising sun.

DINNER ON SHORE.

265

We retraced our steps with the same admiration that we had first taken them, till about midway from the beach, all our party became assembled again; and, seated on the grass in the edge of a grove, we partook, in true pic-nic style, of the ample stores furnished from the baskets of Johnston, our kind old steward. He is a steady and valuable friend on such occasions, and one we ought never to forget to toast, when with keen appetites and high spirits each seizes for himself, sans fourchette, whatever comes uppermost of the cold roast fowls, nicely sliced tongue, beef, ham, cheese, and bread, he so snugly stows away for the time of need; with one tumbler only, however, from which, in common, to share a little of his best wine-having learned too well, from sad experience, the casualties to which, in such excursions, his cut glass is exposed, to be prodigal of the use of that luxury in this part of the world.

Surrounded by hundreds of the natives, who seemed to think that their turn for the gratification of curiosity had now come, we enjoyed all the honors of the déjeuner en public of the Bourbon family; with little of its forms, however, the group exhibiting all manner of attitudes, and a mixture of every character, in partaking the feast.

The dignitaries of the land, seated among us, nibbled and sipped, with becoming care and gravity, the strange articles of diet presented to them; while a cake of shipbread, handed to some of the common bystanders, was quickly crumbled into a hundred pieces, and tossed to eager and noisy applicants on all sides, followed by loud laughter and various other expressions of delight. Those of the crew with us as attendants, were glad too to break their fast by improving the privilege-without waiting for the cloth to be removed-of seizing a VOL. I.

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luncheon kindly slipped into their hand, by one friend and another in the circle, making a species of saturnalia of the repast, quite allowable at such times of haste and hunger.

Among the spectators all the beauty of the valley was assembled, and, in the number, belles who need not fear a comparison, either in feature or form, with most who are the admiration of fairer circles at home. The whole scene formed a subject worthy of the pencil of a Murillo or a Wilkie. I would have given much for the talent of seizing it ên passant, and did make the attempt even at a sacrifice of a full share of the edibles -but only attracted a curious circle so closely around me, as to cut off all view of the principal group.

On our way to the beach, clusters of females, in neat and graceful attire, with fanciful head-dresses, were seated in every grove, singing monotonous ditties, accompanied by the clapping of hands, interluded by a loud noise of the tongue, something like the clucking of a hen in gathering her brood around her.

The whole population of the valley crowded the shore as we prepared to depart; and many of them assisted in getting our purchases of fowls, cocoa-nuts, pigs, sugar-cane, bananas, &c., into the cutters, and afterwards carried us on their backs through the surf, which, at low water, breaks too high to allow a large boat to come close to the beach. When all were on board, our friend Taua returning with us, we shoved off a short distance, and lay on our oars till we had given a farewell air on the bugle and the horn.

The western cliffs had already thrown their evening shades widely over the glen, and the darkness of the grove behind presented the crowd in such bold relief, as to give full effect to the fineness of their forms, and

the classic drapery in which they were partially enveloped. No loud shouts nor vulgar merriment were heard among them; but silent musings seemed toindicate a feeling of reluctance to see us depart. And, as we completed the "finale," and pulled away for the ship, wishes and prayers of the sincerest good will followed the last looks we gave, as they began slowly to separate and disperse among their native wilds.

My heart sighed for the beginning of missionary instruction among them; and during our return every thought was busy, in devising plans by which light might speedily be brought to break in upon their darkness, and those good tidings here be proclaimed, which, if received and embraced, would at once make their abode, not only what it is now by nature, one of the most romantic spots on the globe, but morally and spiritually "the happy valley."

LETTER XXX.

CRUELTY AND INJUSTICE OF FOREIGNERS TO THE

ISLANDERS.

Bay of Taiohae, at Nukuhiva,
August 3d, 1829.

ON rounding the West Sentinel just at night fall, on our return from the valley of Taioa, "Sail ho!" burst from a dozen lips, as we opened the anchorage and descried a vessel inside the Vincennes, with the French ensign flying.

Taua-hania, as soon as he recognized the white flag of the Bourbons, manifested great uneasiness and

agitation; and begged to be landed on the shore, and not to be taken on board our ship-saying he had "great fear." The cause was at once understood by us, from a statement he had made in the morning, as we entered the bay of Taioa, and pointed out to us the best berth for shipping.

It was this. Some time since a French vessel came to anchor at that valley. The commander found some difficulty, from the existence it appears of a real scarcity, in procuring as large a quantity of live stock as he desired, and applied to the Taua, for the interposition of his authority, in obliging the islanders to furnish him with more than he had yet obtained. This he was either unwilling or unable to do, or exerted his influence in vain; on which, the Frenchman ordered him to be seized when on board, and had him bound hand and foot to the mainmast-his arms and legs being passed round it, and tied in such a manner, that his whole weight hung upon the ligatures-and told him that he should not be released, till forty hogs were brought to the ship. This took place early in the morning. In the course of six or eight hours, by great exertion, the required number, including animals of every size, was collected; when the captain, in place of releasing the old man, demanded twenty more before he would unbind him. It was not till night, that these also were gathered from the interior, by seizing them wherever they could be found, and despoiling the whole valley of almost every animal of the kind. Thus, after being in torture the whole day, the prophet-" make oa!" "dead!" as in a pathetic. tone he expressed it, at the same time shutting his eyes, letting his head drop on his chest, and his arms fall lifelessly beside him "make oa i te eha a te pooe!"