THROUGH IRELAND, IN 1812, 1814, AND 1817. FIRST WALK, TO BAG AND BUN, THE LANDING-PLACE OF THE ENGLISH IN 1169, IN THE COUNTY OF WEXFORD, IN 1812. MY DEAR L. LETTER I. Aughavanny, County Wicklow. HAVING long thought of making some considerable walks in Ireland, to view those natural beauties which abound in it, and to observe the character of the people, I have this day commenced my first tour, the prelude to others, and shall send you the fruits of my observations. A very small party accompany me, and in describing this, as well as my future tours, I shall always use the term "we," without farther explanation, unless where I venture to give peculiar opinions of my own. I shall also endeavour to give you as much information, and as just views as possible of Ireland, and likewise as much of picturesque description as may be agreeable and necessary. B You will consider me as a stranger, viewing this charming country, with impartial eyes, but not forgetful of the claims the British Empire has on me as a citizen, and an attached friend to her glorious constitution. I please myself to think that no other person has attempted the same kind of task, and, whatever may be its execution, you will not, I hope, doubt the purity of my motives. Divided by parties, Ireland presents many difficulties to a writer. He cannot please all-perhaps none. Neither can he hope to succeed much better in Great Britain. Prejudices on various sides exist. The impartial observer is sure to offend, where he shocks them, and he becomes anathematized, but too frequently for pronouncing truths for which he deserves praise. Yet the field for observation is so fine, and the people of Ireland are so interesting from their history, their misfortunes and the rays of genius, which sparkle through all their disadvantages, that I freely take up my pen, and shall experience unspeakable satisfaction if you think a result at all favourable to Ireland might be produced, by conveying truth in a pleasing channel to the well-meaning of all sides. Would that a minister or prince might condescend to read these letters which I address to you; they might, perhaps, then derive some knowledge from them, which they could not otherwise acquire; and wholesome truths respecting the beautiful island, on which I shall write, might thus penetrate the abode of royalty, and the recesses of cabinets! You know me too well to suppose that I am the dependant of any party, a lover of tumult, of gain, or of popularity. I am a zealous, though humble friend, to our great commonwealth, and whilst other men labour meritoriously for it in various ways, and receive various, and splendid rewards, I am satisfied to set out on my Walks, to extract instruction from the lovely book of nature, and if I can possibly help to relieve the oppressed, how sweet, though unobserved, shall be my reward! In the month of June, having made some simple preparations, our party set out from the metropolis, on our way to Wicklow, so justly celebrated for its beauties. Dublin is extremely handsome, but its public buildings are too magnificent for the metropolis of so small an island. It has, however, lost much of its splendour, as well as most of the nobles and gentry, since the union, a measure of somewhat doubtful, though certainly well-meant, policy. The morning was cool, and we set forward with great alacrity. On reaching Harold's-cross, a respectable village, a mile from the city, we perceived on the right a venerable mansion embowered in trees. the residence of Mr. John Keogh, of whom a gentleman of our party gave this account:-" Mr. Keogh is a Catholic merchant, of enterprize and genius. He has realized a large fortune, and lives in happy retirement, in the bosom of his family. He has done more for his country than all the declaimers in the Irish Parliament for half a century. Feeling acutely for what he conceived the cruel and unjust degradation of his Catholic fellow-citizens, and participating in it, he made strenuous and successful efforts to relieve them. He formed one of a committee, which emanated many vigorous, but prudent resolutions, and guided instead of following the population of a great city. It was at last agitated in committee to apply to ministers. Every one objected the probable futility of the measure. Mr. K. dissented. Permit me to go, though alone,' said he, and I answer for the success of our application.' They assented. Mr. Keogh went to London, and had an audience of Mr. Dundas. He stated, temperately and perspicuously, the wants of the Catholics. That able minister heard him with attention and respect. The Act of 1793 was soon after passed, and Mr. K. derived from his exertions the most heart-felt pleasure. He may be called the regenerator of the Catholic Cause in Ireland, which has subsequently suffered so much by intemperance. This gentleman has a commanding person, fine countenance, and is endowed with a nervous and powerful eloquence. He may be deemed a natural genius; for he soared above a depressing situation, educated himself, and is singularly happy in private society, in enforcing his opinions by argument deduced from facts and books, though he listens with the gentlest politeness; and every one leaves his company, both pleased and instructed." As we proceeded we reached Rathfarnanbridge. The beauty that presented itself to our eyes was great. A charming river ran through a small vale! Lord Ely's improvements, and numerous distant country-houses, crowned by the enchanting Dublin mountains, formed an almost unrivalled coup d'œil. The village of Rathfarnan is trifling, and gives no favourable idea of Irish cleanliness. We passed through a pretty country towards the mountains, from which the party who were to have seconded the mistaken and criminal views of Mr. Robert Emmett, in 1803, were to have descended on Dublin. He himself resided nearer the city. This unfortunate and ill-advised young gentleman sacrificed himself, in a lamentable manner, to the offended laws, through the suggestions of low and ill-disposed advisers. Gifted with no common talents ;-amiable, enthusiastic, and generous !—he mistook party for public good, and bestowed himself on a designing few, when he fancied he was labouring for his country! How melancholy, my dear L. that genius should thus fall! How must we detest its betrayers! The |