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was confirmed by James VI. in 1609, and ratified by Parliament in 1612. The revenue of the burgh is about 1,030 per annum, but the expenditure generally exceeds that sum. Two burgh courts are held weekly. Dumbarton is in schedule (E) of the Scotch Reform Act (2 & 3 Will. IV. c, 65), and returns one member to Parliament, jointly with Renfrew, Rutherglen, Kilmarnock, and Port-Glasgow. The population in 1831 was 3623. There is a school, under the patronage of the magistrates, superintended by two teachers.

The castle stands on a steep rock, rising up in two points, and inaccessible on every side, except by a very narrow passage, fortified with a strong wall or rampart. Within this wall is the guard-house, with lodgings for the officers, and from hence a long flight of stone steps leads to the upper part of the castle, where there are several batteries mounted with cannon, the wall being continued almost round the rock. There are the remains of a high gateway and wall, the top of which has a bridge of communication from one summit of the rock to the other. There is also an excellent well constantly supplied with water. The rock on which the castle stands is nearly surrounded with water, and forms a highly interesting view from the Clyde, whose waters wash its base. Considered as the key to the Western Islands, this castle was always a great object of contention, and has sustained many memorable sieges. It is now garrisoned by some invalids, under the command of a governor and some subaltern officers. In the upper part, where the rock divides, convenient barracks have been erected, as well as a small arsenal, containing Wallace's gigantic sword and many other curiosities.

and consist of oak, ash, yew, holly, mountain-ash, birca, hazel, aspen, alder, crab, thorn, and willow. The comparative extent of arable land is very small; it is chiefly elay, and lies mostly on the south of Loch Lomond, and along the Clyde. The prevalent soils are clay, gravel, black loam, and a small portion of bog. Potatoes, oats, and wheat are the principal crops. The cattle are chiefly of the West Highland breed. From 12,000 to 17,000 are annually sold at the market on Carman Moor. Cows of the Ayrshire breed have been introduced into most of the dairy farms. The sheep are of the small black-faced mountain breeds. In 1811, at the time of the agricultural survey, the number was 28,000, but the general improvements in farming which have since been made in the county have greatly increased all kinds of stock and produce. Property is in few hands, and farms are of very various extent, but chiefly small. The principal mineral production is coal, of which there is a large field, but of inferior quality. About 11,000 tons are dug annually at Langfauld, in the southern extremity of the county (West division). Pyrites is procured in small quantities at the same place. In the Eastern division of the county about 3000 tons of ironstone are dug and conveyed on the Clyde and Forth canal to the great iron-foundry at Carron. Some large quarries of limestone are worked, and of white and red freestone. There are several slate quarries yielding annually about 80,000 slates, of which the greater portion is taken to Glasgow, along the rivers Leven and Clyde, and the Glasgow canal.

On the banks of the Leven are numerous and very extensive works for cotton-printing, and bleaching-fields; the pureness of the Leven water being peculiarly adapted for this process. This stream, which, with the exception of numerous mountain torrents, is the only one worthy of notice, runs rapidly a distance of about five miles from Loch Lomond to the Clyde at Dumbarton Castle, and is navigable for lighters. The value of salmon annually taken in the Clyde and Leven, and sent chiefly to Glasgow, is stated at 10007. Fifty boats are employed in the herring fishery, which produces annually about 4500l. Some large iron works are established at Dalnotter; there are also extensive and prosperous manufactories of glass and paper. Dumbarton is the chief town, and the principal road is from thence to Glasgow. The valued rental of the county is 33,328t. Scotch. The population in 1831 was 33,211. The county sends one representative to parliament. (Agricul tural Survey, by Whyte and Macfarlan, 1811; Mac Culloch's Statistics of the British Empire, 1837, &c.) DUMBNESS. [DEAF AND DUMB.]

DUMBARTONSHIRE, a small maritime county in the west of Scotland, between 55° 53′ and 56° 20′ N. lat., and 3° 50′ and 4° 50′ of W. long. It consists of two separate parts, having an intervening distance of six miles between their nearest approaching points. The larger and western part is bounded on the west by Loch Long, by which it is separated from the county of Argyle; the southern boundary is formed by the river Clyde, the eastern by the county of Stirling, and the northern by Perthshire. The antient name of the county was Levenach, that is, county of the Leven, which subsequently became Levenax, and finally Lennox. It is about 36 miles in length from north-west to south-east, in a straight line, and in the middle about 15 miles in breadth from east to west. Loch Lomond is not wholly included within the county. The small detached eastern part is half enclosed by Stirlingshire on the north, and by Lanarkshire on the south, and measures 12 miles DUMFRIES, the capital of the county of Dumfries, and from east to west, and about 4 miles from north to south. the seat of a presbytery and synod, is beautifully situated The whole area of the county is 165,760 acres, or 259 upon a rising ground on the east side of the river Nith, square miles, of which 19,840 acres are water. In the about nine miles from its influx into the Solway Frith. The western part the parishes are ten in number, namely, river is navigable for ten or twelve miles, and vessels of 120 Dumbarton, Cardross, Roseneath, which is a peninsula tons' burden can approach the town. Two bridges cross the formed by Loch Long and Gare Loch, Row, Arroquhar, river; one on a very antient structure, supposed to have Luss, Bonhill, Kilmaronoch, and West and East Kilpatrick. been begun by Devorgilla Douglas, mother of John Baliol, The eastern part is composed of two parishes, Kirkintilloch, king of Scotland; the other was built in 1795. The town is and Cumbernauld. Two-thirds of the surface consist of 34 miles from Carlisle, 79 from Glasgow, and 71 from Edinmountains, partially presenting woods, mosses, and moors, burgh. The principal street is about three quarters of a and incapable of cultivation. The most remarkable are mile in length, and, on an average, about 60 feet in breadth. Ben Voirlich, Arrochar, Benequirach, Luss, Row, and Rose- Many of the other streets communicate with it at right neath; the rugged and precipitous summits of which are angles. The public buildings and houses are chiefly of red frequently covered with snow and clouds. Ben Voirlich, in freestone, and have a handsome appearance. The streets the northern extremity of the county, and near the northern and shops are well lighted by gas. There are two parish extremity of Loch Lomond, is 3330 feet above the level of churches, and eight chapels for dissenters. The ministers the sea, that is, above 100 feet higher than the adjacent of the two churches have each a stipend of about 3007. a Ben Lomond. There are many highly picturesque situa- year. The stipends of the dissenting ministers amount to tions in this county. The contrast of sterile mountains and from about 100%. to 150l. each: 1000 families attend the verdant glens is very striking. Loch Lomond, which covers two established churches, and about 700 the dissenting about 20,000 acres, presents the richest description of lake places of worship. Neither the churches nor chapels have and highland scenery. Its length is 22 miles; its surface any free sittings. A third church is about to be erected. is studded with many beautiful little islands, and its finely St. Michael's church-yard contains a great number of inwooded shores are adorned with elegant villas. The teresting monuments; among which is an elegant mauclimate is in general mild and very moist. Yet the soleum, erected by subscription to the memory of the poet lateness of the spring, the frequency of showers and Burns, whose remains are deposited in a vault beneath. cloudy weather during harvest, with blighting moun- A handsome piece of marble sculpture, executed by Turnetain winds in the spring and autumn, and the early com-relli, representing the genius of Scotland finding the poet mencement of winter, are insuperable disadvantages to at the plough, and throwing her inspiring mantle over him, agriculture; but for pasturage, and especially for the growth adorns the monument.

of timber, the climate is remarkably well adapted; nor is

In the middle of High Street is Mid Steeple, where the it unfavourable to health and longevity. The natural meetings of the town-council are held; ard opposite to it copse woods and plantations cover several thousand acres, is the Trades' Hall, for the meeting of the seven incorporated

trades. In 1706 a town-house was built. In 1807 a county gaol and court-house were erected, the latter of which is now converted into a bridewell. The present court-house is an elegant and commodious building, having a communication with the prison by a vaulted passage under the street. An academy stands in a large and spacious area. The theatre and assembly-rooms are neat and convenient buildings. On the south-east side of the town is an infirmary and lunatic asylum for this and the neighbouring county, founded in 1787: the annual expenditure is about 12001; the average number of patients about 30. There is also an hospital for aged persons and orphans, and a dispensary. A large and handsome lunatic asylum is now building by the widow of the late Dr. Crichton, of Friar's Carse. In Queensberry Square, which is in the centre of the town, a handsome Doric column was erected in 1780 to commemorate the virtues of Charles duke of Queensberry, The prosperity of the town depends very much on the neighbouring country, there being no extensive manufactures. Hosiery, tanning, and basket-making, and also the manufacture of hats, clogs, and shoes, are carried on to a considerable extent. The only trade of importance is that of pork, of which many thousand carcases are sold annually during the season. The principal exports are wool, freestone, grain, potatoes, and live stock, particularly sheep. The imports are wood, wine, slate, lime, coals, and iron. The number of vessels belonging to the port of Dumfries, including the creek of Annan, amounts to about 84, the total burden of which is 5783 tons. About 16 or 18 of them are foreign vessels, chiefly employed in bringing timber from America. The others are coasters, plying to Liverpool and the ports of Cumberland. A steam-vessel plies weekly between this port and Liverpool. A market is held weekly on Wednesday. The town is governed by a provost, three baillies, dean and treasurer, 12 councillors, and seven deacons of trades, in all 25. The revenue of the town is about 20007. annually.

Dumfries is a royal burgh, and unites with Annan, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright, in returning a member to parliament. Besides the quarter-sessions, the circuit courts for the southern districts of Scotland are held here twice a year. The population of the burgh and parish in 1821 was 11,152; and in the census of 1831 there was an increase of 554. Since then the population is supposed to have decreased. The spasmodic cholera was very fatal here in 1832: 837 cases were officially reported, and of these 422 died. Maxwelltown, which is situated on the opposite side of the river, may very properly be said to form a part of Dumfries: together they contain about 13,000 inhabitants. The number of families in the parish of Dumfries is 2599, of which 248 are chiefly engaged in agriculture, and 1170 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. The number of electors for the burgh in 1831 was 468. The poor are relieved on the plan recommended by the Rev. Dr. Chalmers. The funds are raised by voluntary contribution, and not by assessment. Visitors make advances to the poor, and meet once a week to receive back their advances from the treasurer and to deliberate as to applicants. In this way about 15007. is expended annually. The name of Dumfries, it is supposed, was derived from the Gaelic words dun, a fortified hill, and preas, shrubs or brushwood. Although it is a town of great antiquity, there is no authentic record of an earlier date than the beginning of the thirteenth century, when a monastery was erected for Franciscan friars. In this monastery the Comyns were slain by Bruce, aided by Roger Kirkpatrick and James Lindsay, in 1305. For the convenience of this religious house, a bridge of thirteen arches was erected across the Nith of these only seven now remain. A strong castle is said to have been founded here in the twelfth century, of which there is now not a vestige. Like most other towns, it was entered and guarded by four ports, independent of inferior gates. Some of these were constructed in the form of a portcullis, surmounted with a tower. Dumfries was twice burnt by the English; once in the middle of the thirteenth century, and again in 1536. Queen Mary and her privy council came here to ratify a peace with England in 1563. About two years afterwards, some disaffected noblemen raised a force, against which Mary advanced an army of 18,000 men. These nobles fled to England, and the castle soon surrendered.

In 1570 the town was taken and ransacked by the English

under the Earl of Essex and Lord Scrope. James VI., in passing through the town in 1617, presented the trades of the burgh with a small silver gun, to be awarded from time to time to the 'best marksman. In 1706 the articles of union were burnt at the market cross by a party of Cameronians, who entered the town for this purpose, and were joined by many of the inhabitants. In 1745 the town suffered much from Prince Charles's army on its return from England. The view up the Nith is varied and beautiful, and the town has in its vicinity several neat villas and venerable buildings, among which Terregles, Dals winton, Castle Dykes, Caerlaverock Castle, Lincluden Abbey, and Newabbey deserve particular mention. (Picture of Dumfries and its Environs, by John M'Diarmid, Esq.; The New Statistical Account of Scotland; Communications from Dumfries.)

DUMFRIESSHIRE is a southern county of Scotland, lying between 55° 2′ and 55° 31' N. lat. and between 2° 39′ and 3° 53' W. long. from London. It is bounded on the south by the Solway Frith and Cumberland, on the north by the counties of Lanark, Peebles, and Selkirk, on the east by Roxburgh, and on the west by Kirkcudbright and Ayr. Its form is irregularly ellipsoidal: the greater diameter, from Liddel Mount to Corsoncone Hill, measures about 50 miles; the lesser diameter, from the Solway to Loch Craig, about 32 miles. The circuit of the county, exclusive of the estuaries of the Nith, Lochar, Annan, and Sark, is about 174 miles. The superficial area measures 1263 square miles, or 808,320 English statute acres. The county was formerly divided into three districts, viz., Annandale, Eskdale, and Nithsdale, each comprehending a portion of territory which fell within the basins of the three rivers after which they are named; Esk on the east, Nith on the west, and Annan in the centre of the county. In 1831 the population was 73,770. Considerable numbers emigrate to America and other places.

Surface, Hydrography, and Communications.—The surface of the county is very irregular. About half of it is mountainous, a small part is on the sea-coast, and one-third midland, consisting of low hills, ridges, and vales.

Hartfell, the highest mountain in the county, is 3300 feet above the level of the sea; Lowther, near Leadhills, 3130; Black Larg, bordering on Ayrshire, 2890; Ettrick Pen, in Eskdale Moor, 2220; Queensberry Hill, 2140; Cairn Kinnow, near Drumlanrig, 2180; Wisp Hill, in Ewes, 1836; Holehouse Hill, 1500; Knockcraig, 1400; Langholm Hill, 1200; and Burnswark, 740 feet.

In the vicinity of Lochmaben are nine lakes or lochs, five of which are of considerable size. The antient royal castle of that name stands upon a very narrow peninsula on the south-east side of the castle-loch, which is three miles in circumference. Some years ago a canal was projected between this lake and the Solway Frith, which, if executed, would be attended with incalculable advantages to the whole district of Annandale. It is asserted that sixteen different kinds of fish fit for the table are found in the lakes of Lochmaben, and that the Vendace, a very delicious fish, which in appearance bears some resemblance to the herring, is peculiar to the large lake. The mountain lake called Loch Skeen, situated near the head of Moffat Water, is 1300 ft. above the level of the sea, and about 2 miles in circumference. This lake feeds the well-known cascade called the Gray Mare's Tail, and is well stocked with delicate trout of a large size. There are several other lochs or lakes of less extent.

The principal rivers in the county are the Nith, Annan, and Esk. The Nith enters the county from Ayrshire, and runs in a south-east direction, in a very winding course above 40 miles, passing Sanquhar, Thornhill, and Dumfries. About nine miles below the last-mentioned place it falls into the Solway Frith. The surrounding mountains and ridges approach near each other above Drumlanrig castle, and also near Blackwood, and divide the vale of the river into three portions, which have been named the vale of Sanquhar, the vale of Closeburn, and the vale of Dumfries. The tributary streams that join the Nith are the Clouden, Scarr, Shinnel, Cample, Carron, Menoch, Euchan, Crawick, and Killoe. Its banks are almost everywhere beautified with gentlemen's seats and pleasure-grounds.

The Annan takes its rise near the sources of the Clyde and Tweed, among the mountains near the junction of

London: Published ser Charles

Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Stamford-street,

Lanarkshire and Peeblesshire with this county, and runs a course nearly south of about 30 miles, in which it passes Moffat, Lochmaben, and Bridekirk. It enters the Solway a little below the royal burgh of Annan, the second town in the county. The tributary streams that flow into the Annan are the Mein, Wamphray, Evan, Milk, Dryfe, Kinnel, Ae, and Moffat. A beautiful ridge crosses the vale of this river from Kirkwood by Murraythwaite to Mount Annan. In the bed of the Kinnel is a rock called Wallace's Leap, near which place Wallace concealed himself after the battle of Falkirk. In the other tributary streams are several cascades, well known for the grandeur of the scenery which surrounds them.

The Esk rises in the mountains on the borders of Selkirkshire, runs in a southern direction above 30 miles in the county, passes Langholm and Canobie, and forms near the latter place for one mile the boundary with England; after which it enters Cumberland, and turns westward through an open country by Longtown into the Solway Frith. This river receives in its course the Liddel, Tarras, Wauchope, Ewes, Meggot, and Black Esk. In the vale of Esk is some romantic and picturesque scenery, especially between Langholm and Longtown, where there is one of the most beautiful carriage-drives in the kingdom. The Kirtle is a romantic little river that enters the Solway Frith a little distance from the Sark, which is a border stream, and forms the boundary between England and Scotland for some distance before it enters the Solway. Both these rivers rise from the hills in the neighbourhood of Langholm, and pursue a southern course of about 20 miles. The Lochar is a moss rivulet, which rises in Tinwald parish, near a small village called Jericho, runs about 13 miles in a very serpentine course, and discharges itself direct into the Solway, a few miles east of the mouth of the Nith.

The larger rivers contain salmon, herlings, parr or samlet, and sea-trout. These, and also flounders and cod, and occasionally turbot, soles, and herrings, are taken in the Solway Frith. Along the shore considerable quantities of cockles and mussels are gathered by the poor people. The smaller rivers contain pike, perch, trout, and eels. Fishing for salmon, gilse, and sea-trout, whiting or herling, commences in the Annan and Nith on the 10th of March, and closes on the 25th of September, both of which times are generally considered a month too early. The fisheries of all the rivers of Dumfriesshire are much injured by stake-nets in the Solway, and by salmon being killed in the spawning season.

Game-birds of various kinds are very plentiful, particularly pheasants, black game, grouse, and partridges. The woodcock, curlew, plover, lapwing, and snipe are also abundant. Moor-fowl and ptarmigan shooting commences August 12th; heath-fowl August 20th; both terminate December 10th. Partridge-shooting commences September 1st, and that of pheasants October 1st; both end February 1st. Hares are numerous in many places, nor is the fox a stranger to the county; but neither the red deer nor the capercailie, both of which were met with at one time in Dumfriesshire, are now in existence. In some of the mosses are found the remains of the roe, or forest-deer, which formerly abounded in the county; but none had been seen for many years until lately, when two or three were discovered at Raehills, and having been protected, they are now established in considerable numbers. They are supposed to have strayed from the hills of Lanarkshire. Roads.-There are no public railroads or canals; but the county is intersected in almost every direction with turnpike and other roads. The Carlisle and Glasgow turnpike enters the county at Sark Bridge, passes through Gretna, Dornock, Annan, Dumfries, Thornhill, and Sanquhar. Another turnpike to Glasgow passes through Gretna, Ecclefechan, Lockerby, Dinwoodie Green, and Beattock Bridge. A line of road leads from Carlisle towards Portpatrick by Annan and Castle Douglas. A turnpike-road extends from the town of Dumfries to Edinburgh by Moffat. The roads in general have of late been much improved, and are kept in excellent order. Safe and easy communications have been opened through several parts of the mountainous districts. | A continuation of the projected railway from Manchester to Lancaster through Cumberland and Dumfriesshire to Glasgow would be an immense advantage and accommodation to the populous and manufacturing towns as well as to the agricultural districts on the line.

P. C., No. 555.

Geological Character.-The southern and lower part of the county consists of reddish-coloured sandstone, which becomes of a lighter colour and harder quality towards the north. This may be considered a continuation of the red marl formation of Cumberland. Proceeding farther northward, a reddish-coloured limestone, succeeded by a coarse white sandstone and blue limestone appears, and after these mandlestone rock and primitive mountains containing metallic ores. Limestone is worked in each of the three dales of the county, particularly at Kelhead in Annandale, and Closeburn in Nithsdale. A very remarkable appearance, and one that has excited confiderable interest and speculation among geologists, was observed in a sandstone quarry in the parish of Lochmaben: distinct foot-marks of animals of various sizes were discovered, some of them 45 feet below the surface. The coal-field in the west of Cumberland is supposed to stretch through the Solway Frith towards the shores of Galloway and Dumfries, and to be buried at a great depth under the red strata of the shores and valleys of Nithsdale and Annandale. The coalmetals appear forced out near Ecclefechan, Kirtle-town, and Canobie. Several unsuccessful trials by boring have been made in the low country, but never to a satisfactory depth, and coals are wrought only at the two extremities of the county, Sanquhar and Canobie. The former has probably no connexion with the coals of Cumberland, but is a part of the Ayrshire coal. A great portion of the county is supplied with coal from Cumberland, and from Lanarkshire and Ayrshire. The old red sand-stone appears in the bed of the Annan, near Jardine-hall.

At Wanlockhead, near Leadhills, are extensive leadmines. During the last fifty years, 47,420 tons of lead have been raised. From this lead silver is extracted in the proportion of six to twelve ounces in the ton. Some pieces of lead ore have been met with in the parishes of Langholm, Johnstone, Penpont, and St. Mungo, but no mines are wrought there. Gold is occasionally found in the mountains at Wanlockhead, in veins of quartz, or washed down into the sand of the rivulets. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, 300 men were employed by Sir Bevis Bulmer, for several summers, and collected gold to the value of 100,000l. Within the last four years two pieces have been found which weighed respectively ninety and sixty grains. The largest piece ever found there is in the British Museum, and weighs four or five ounces. An antimony mine, discovered at Glendinning in 1760, was regularly wrought in 1793. The ore was a sulphuret, which yielded about 50 per cent. The vein seldom exceeded twenty inches in thickness, and contained blende, calcareous spar, and quartz. Copper ore and manganese have been met with in small quantities; the former in the parish of Middlebie. Ironstone exists in some places in spheroidal masses, and in beds and bogs, but no iron is worked from ores in the county. Gypsum occurs in thin veins. The rocks of many of the hills consist of greenstone and of greywacke, and greywacke slate. Floetz-trap is found on the summit of some of the mountains, and generally in the shape of mountain caps. Boulders of granite and sienite are found in various places, the latter most frequently in the low part of the county. There are several basaltic or whinstone rocks, the finest of which are met with in the mountains in the vicinity of Moffat. About a mile from the last mentioned place is a celebrated mineral water similar to the sulphureous water of Harrowgate, and about five miles distant, in a deep ravine on the side of Hartfell, is a chalybeate spring. There are also mineral waters in the neighbourhood of Langholm, Annan, and Lochmaben, and in some other parts of the county.

Climate. That part of the county which adjoins the Solway Frith is low and warm. The mountainous district is cold and bleak, but seldom remains long covered with snow. The whole is supposed to be moist, and in general mild and salubrious. In summer and autumn the prevailing winds are from the west and south, and in the winter and spring from the east and north. In winter the cold is sometimes moderate, at other times severe. The spring is generally late. In summer the thermometer often stands above 70° of Fahrenheit, and has been observed as high as 92° in the shade. About 45° is considered the average annual temperature. The most dreadful snow storm on record occurred in 1794, on the 25th January; upwards of 4000 sheep, besides a number of black cattle, were destroyed by it. As much of the land is wet and destitute of VOL. IX-2 C

shelter, the climate would be greatly improved by draining | breeds. The quality of the cattle and sheep stocks has and planting. Wood is much wanted in the county, par- been lately much improved. The Galloway breed of cattle ticularly on the higher ridges, both for use and ornament; mostly prevails, except for the dairy, for which business many and draining would be a most important improvement. At intelligent farmers prefer cows of the Ayrshire breed. The a moderate expense not only Lochar moss, but several sheep are of the Cheviot and black-faced breeds, but there other extensive tracts of wet and mossy ground might be are not many of them perfectly pure and unmixed. Latdrained and converted into valuable meadows and corn- terly they have been crossed by the Leicesters, and where fields. There are a few belts and clumps of trees, and the land has been drained, which is usually by open cuts, young plantations which are thriving well, but their extent the offspring are found to answer exceedingly well, and is very limited. make more profitable returns to the farmer. The native Agriculture.-The soil in the lower parts of the county is breed of dun-faced small sheep does not now appear generally light and sandy. Along the margins of the great in the county. A great number of pigs are kept by rivers are considerable tracts of rich alluvial soil. Between the farmers and cottars, and bacon may be considered a Tinwald and Torthorwald, and from the Hook to Lockerby staple commodity of the county. Grass lands are generally are fine fields of loam; peat-moss prevails on many of the entered upon at Whitsuntide; and corn lands in August, hills, and in some of the vales: the most extensive moss is after the removal of the crop. The rent is payable at Whitthat of Lochar, near Dumfries, which is eleven or twelve suntide and Martinmas in equal portions. Sheep farms miles lon, and between two and three broad. Clay is vary in size from 300 to 3000 acres, and two sheep for three found extensively as a sub-soil, and in a few places as a soil acres may be considered an average number of stock. The mixed with other substances. In Annandale and Nithsdale management of these is by far the least expensive branch the dry soil prevails. On many of the hills the soil is natu- of farming, though a good deal more is necessary than the rally wet. Many of the estates are freehold, and are held shepherd and his dog. Arable farms extend from 50 to immediately of the crown. A considerable number are 600 acres; many are about 100 or 150 acres. Some farms held of a subject superior. Lands of both tenures may be contain both sheep-walk and arable lands, and these are laid under entail for an unlimited period, and in favour of considered the most convenient and productive. Arable heirs yet unborn. As the right of superiority may be con- farms, and those of small size, prevail on the low grounds veyed without property, some gentlemen hold superiorities and near the market towns and villages. Those of larger who have no property in the county. In the vicinity of the extent, where pasture greatly preponderates, are more castle of Lochmaben small parcels of rich and fertile land distant, and more highly situated. The rent of land varies called Four Towns are held by a very antient and peculiar according to quality and situation. Arable land in a good mode of kindly tenure, and are transferred simply by pos- situation lets from 21. to 5l. per acre, but about 17. per session. The proprietors pay a small fixed sum annually to acre may be considered an average of the county for arable the earl of Mansfield. Feu-holding, which enables the owner lands, and 4s for sheep-walk. The annual value of real to alienate at pleasure, and subjects him to an annual pay- property, as assessed in 1815, was 295,6217. ment equal and sometimes superior to rack-rent, is mostly confined to houses and gardens. Near the royal burghs certain tracts of land are held under burgage tenure. The owners of these pay every year a certain sum as rent or duty to the magistrates of the burghs. Tithes, or teinds, as they are called, are very light. By an act of the Scottish parliament, dated 1663, a fifth part of the rent was directed to be returned as the tithe, and fixed as a money payment; the valuations to be made at the request of the landowners. In consequence of the depreciation of money and the increase of the value of land, the tithes are considered exceedingly moderate. The rental of a great portion of land has been more than doubled within the last forty years. Though several landlords have lately made considerable reductions, many farms, on account of the reduced price of produce, are over-rented, and for want of capital the farmers are unable to make improvements. Long leases of smail portions of land for building are very common in villages. Farms of arable land are generally let on leases of 15, 19, or 21 years. On sheep farms the ordinary leases are from 9 to 13 years. Various forms of leases are in use. Some landowners have printed conditions, which are seldom read or attended to by the tenants, except so far as regards the rent and term of the lease. There is a kind of rule that not more than one third part of the arable land shall be under white crops, yet some adopt the four-field and others the six-field course of husbandry. A variety of crops are now cultivated, and the practice of farmers with respect to rotation is various. Some very judiciously endeavour to suit their rotation and course of management to the different soils; others, by altering the rotation or by varying the genera or species of the crops, adopt a double rotation. The following is a frequent order of husbandry: 1st year, oats; 2nd, potatoes and turnips, the latter fed off by sheep; 3rd, wheat or barley, and sown with grass seeds; 4th, hay; 5th, grass. Oats and potatoes are cultivated more extensively than any other crop, both for home consumption and for exportation. Potatoes are much used in fattening cattle and pigs. A great quantity of hams and bacon of the very best quality are cured in this county, and sent off to the Liverpool, London, and Newcastle markets. The very general adoption of the culture of turnips has lately been one of the greatest improvements in agriculture. Bone manure is used with advantage upon high ground of difficult access. The farm implements in use are very similar to those in Cumberland, with the exception of the sickle, the use of which is in some places much laid aside, and the scythe substituted for it. The horses in general are of a middle size, and are the result of many crossings of different

Most of the modern farm buildings are commodious and well arranged; they are constructed of stone and lime, and generally covered with slate. Very few are now thatched with straw or built of clay as formerly. Great improvements have been also made in the churches, schools, roads and fences. There are two or three district farming societies, but no general agricultural association for the county. These societies have been very useful by stimulating attention to the improvement of stock. The present depressed state of agriculture bears hard on the peasantry, who are intelligent, frugal, and industrious people. A remarkable difference exists in the food provided by the farmers in England and in Dumfriesshire for their labourers. In Dumfriesshire the haymakers, reapers, &c. have oatmeal porridge, milk, potatoes, and broth, but no meat except a piece of bacon boiled in the broth to give it a relish. The gray plaid thrown round the body is very common. The popular games are curling in winter, and quoits in summer. Married servants generally reside in a cottage near the farmer's house, and are furnished with a quantity of oatmeal, potatoes, and peats. They have also a cow's grass' each, and supplies of money, the whole supposed to be worth about 351. a year. House servants are engaged at hiring fairs at a fixed wage, for six months, for which period men have about 67., and women 31. The people are very sensible of the benefits of education, and can almost all read and write. In the country parishes, as well as in burghs and larger villages, there are parish schools, in which not only the ordinary branches of education, but also the classics and French are generally taught. A few of them are well endowed, but the emoluments on an average do not perhaps exceed 501. each. The poor in the country are relieved by the ministers and elders from funds collected in alms at the church doors, voluntary donations, and small fines. In many parishes sums of money have been bequeathed, or mortified, as it is termed, for the use of the poor. The great evil of this system is constant and uninterrupted public begging, the only remedy for which would be to enforce residence in the parishes where the poor are known. In a few parishes on the border a rate is levied, and paid in equal proportions by the landlords and tenants. The independent disposition which induced the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, it is feared, is fast wearing out. The practice of making salt by filtering the sea-sand, or sleetch, for which the inhabitants had a right of exemption, has altogether ceased along the coast since the removal of the salt duty.

Fairs.-The county town has three annually, for horses and black cattle, February 13th and September 25th, if

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tors under the Reform Act. During the winter there is weekly market for pork, in which business is done to a large amount. The castle, now in ruins, has been a place of great strength, the fortification covering nearly 16 acres.

these days fall on Wednesday; if not, the Wednesday after;
and Martinmas Wednesday. The last is chiefly for fat
cattle, and for hiring servants. There are markets here
also for cattle on Wednesdays, from the beginning of April
to the end of December. For lambs: Langholm, July 26th;
Lockerbie, August 16th and October 16th, excepting Satur- Annan and Milk, 12 miles east of Dumfries. The number
day, Sunday, or Monday, and in that case on the Tuesday of inhabitants is 1414. There is a good parish church, and
Lockerbie is a market-town situated between the rivers
following. For sheep: Langholm, September 18th. For also an antiburgher meeting-house, a library, and a public
tups, sheep, lambs and wool: Sanquhar, July 17th, if Friday; reading-room. The old tower was lately converted into a
if not, on Friday after. For tups: at Moffat in the latter temporary lockup-house. Thursday is the market day. The
end of June; at Annan in May and October; at Moffat winter weekly markets are principally for pork.
in March and October; and at Lockerbie in April; and
fourteen days after Michaelmas are fairs for hiring ser-

vants.

Formerly a very singular custom was observed at a fair held at the meeting of the White and Black Esks. At that fair, it was the custom for unmarried persons of both sexes to choose a companion according to their liking, with whom they were to live till that time next year: this was called hand-fasting. If they were pleased with each other at that time, they continued together for life; if not, they separated, and were free to make another choice as at first.

Divisions, Towns, &c.-There is no division of the county for political purposes, but within its limits are four royal burghs, Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar. The natural division is into the districts or dales of the three principal rivers; Nithsdale, Annandale, and Eskdale.

Langholm is a well built town delightfully situated in the bosom of some picturesque woodland and mountain scenery on the banks of the Esk. It consists of one principal street, in which is a town-hall and jail in the marketplace; and the village of New Langholm on the opposite side of the river. The castle, which is now in ruins, has only been a square tower. There is an old church, two dissenting meeting-houses, an endowed school, and a savings'bank. The late Mr. Telford, civil engineer, left 1000l. to the Langholm library, and as there are two libraries, the legacy is in dispute between them. There are also two woollen manufactories and a small whiskey distillery. Wednesday is the market day. Parish population 2676. A handsome monument has lately been erected by subscription on Langholm Hill to the memory of the late Sir John Malcolm. The principal mansion-houses in the vicinity are Langholmlodge, Broomholm, Burnfoot, and Westerhall. Near the old castle is a place where several reputed witches were burnt in the last century, some of whom, it is said, acted as midwives, and had the power of transferring the pains of labour from the mother to the father.

Moffat, a celebrated watering-place, stands on very dry and gravelly ground, which gently declines towards the south, near the river Annan, 20 miles north by east of Dumfries. It is protected on the north-east by a noble screen of lofty mountains. Here are elegant baths, assembly-rooms, a church and burgher meeting-house, a subscription and a circulating library. Parish population in 1831, 2221. A weekly market is held on Friday. The seat of Rae-hills is about eight miles distant. Among the places in the vicinity noted for fine scenery, and much visited by strangers for the purpose of recreation, are the old caves at Newton; Earl Randolph's tower; Craigie wood; Bellcraig rock and lin, and Gray Mare's Tail. The sulphureous water of Moffat, according to the analysis of Dr. Garnet, contains 4 cubic inches of nitrogen gas in the wine gallon, 5 cubic inches of carbonic acid gas; 10 cubic inches of sulphureted hydrogen gas; and 36 grains of sulphate of soda. The chalybeate water of Hartfell, according to the analysis of the same chemist, contains 5 cubic inches of azotic gas in a wine gallon; 84 grains of sulphate of soda, 12 grains of sulphate of alumina, and 15 grains of oxide of iron. The sulphureous water is found of great service in scrofula, cutaneous eruptions, and bilious complaints; the chalybeate in disorders of the stomach and bowels, and in those connected with local and general debility.

south-west of Dumfries. It has a handsome church, erected Sanquhar, a royal burgh, is seated on the Nith, 27 miles savings'-bank, and a subscription library. The castle is a very picturesque ruin. The town is governed by a provost, in 1820, and three dissenting places of worship; a prison, three bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and eleven ordinary councillors. Revenue about 407. yearly. The only manufacture, except weaving and sewing of muslin to a certain extent, is a carpet manufactory at Crawick-mill. Parish population in 1831, 3268. The town about 1400. The numthis parish, was born the Admirable Crichton. ber of electors of the burgh was 50. At Eliock-house, in

road, on which a market is held every month on a Friday, and a pork market weekly. In its vicinity are HoddamEcclefechan is a neat village on the Glasgow and London castle, and the Tower of Repentance.

brated for the clandestine marriages of fugitive lovers, is situated within a mile of the English border; on which borGraitney or Gretna Green, a neat small village long celeder is also Solway-moss, remarkable for a disastrous battle in the time of Henry VIII., and for a sudden and overwhelming eruption that took place in 1771.

synod of Dumfries extends over the whole county, and also
over a part of some other counties. It comprehends fifty-
Divisions for Ecclesiastical and Legal purposes. The
three parishes, forty-two of which are in this county. The
of all the clergy of the established church, and one elder
from each parish. The synod of Dumfries comprehends five
next court in authority is a provincial synod, which consists
presbyteries, viz. Dumfries, Lochmaben, Annan, Penpont,
and Langholm. The number of clergymen within its limits
is fifty-four, and of these forty-three are in this county.
Prior to the year 1756, there were three jurisdictions in the
county, viz. the sheriffship of Nithsdale, the stewartry of
Annandale, and the regality of Eskdale. Since then one
sheriff, whose authority extends over the whole county, has
holds office during life and good conduct. The sheriff-court
for the county and the commissary court are held every
been deputed by the crown. He appoints a deputy, and
Tuesday during the session; the sheriff small debt court
every second Thursday throughout the year; and the jus-
tice of peace small debt court every second Monday.

burghs of Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar
join with Kirkcudbright in electing another representative.
The county sends one member to parliament, and the
Three newspapers are published weekly at Dumfries, the
county town.

temples exist in the parishes of Holywood, Graitney, Esk-
dalemuir, and Wamphray. Near Moffat are vestiges of
Antiquities, History, &c. The remains of Druidical
a British encampment and also of a Druidical temple.
A Roman way has extended from Carlisle by Graitney
through the procestrium of the station at Burnswark.
This way afterwards divided into two branches; one of
which took the route of Nithsdale, and the other of An-
nandale. They united again at or near Crawford castle.
Another Roman way led from Carlisle by the station at
Netherby and Liddel-strength through Canobie into Teviot-
dale. Several fortifications, both of a circular and square
form, and some large Roman encampments can be dis-
tinctly traced in various parts of the county. At Castleo'er
Lochmaben is a very antient burgh and market town supposed to be of Saxon origin, and at Raeburn-foot is a
seated on the west side of the Annan. It was several times Roman camp which probably communicated with those of
or Overby is a very complete encampment of an oval form
plundered and burnt by the English. It consists chiefly of Middlebie and Netherby. There are ruins of many old
one broad street, and is governed by a provost, three bailies, towers, vestiges of forts, and a great number of cairns or
a dean of guild, a treasurer, and nine ordinary councillors. burians in different places. The most remarkable towers
The revenues are very small. The town-hall, under which are at Achincass, Lag, Amisfield, Robgill, and Lochwood.
is the jail and lockup-house, was built in 1745. A hand- At Dryfesdale is the most entire British fort, and at Burns-
some and substantial new church was erected in 1819. It wark-hill near Ecclefechan are very distinct remains of
possesses also a burgher chapel, a subscription library, and Roman encampments. There are many moats or artificial
an endowed school. Population 1000; 39 of whom are elec-mounts on which the people are supposed to have mat to

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