Route 92.-Bellinzona to Lugano. Beyond this, the Swiss territory ends. Canobbio, situated at the entrance of the Piedmontese valley Canobina, contains a church designed by Bramante. The two islands off Canero were, in the fifteenth century, the resort of five robber-brothers, named Mazzarda, who committed depreda. tions all along the shores of the lake. Intra is a very industrious small town, with several manufactories. A road has been commenced along this shore of the lake, by the Sardinian 'government, to connect Baveno, on the Simplon, with Bellinzona and the St. Gothard. The places on the E. side of the Lago Maggiore are St. Abbondio (Swiss); Macagno (Austrian); Ludino, whence a good road runs by Ponte Tresa to Lugano (Route 93.); Porto and Laveno, nearly opposite Intra, whence a carriage-road runs to Varese and the Sacro Monte. The Borromean Islands and the S. extremity of the lake are described in Route 59. ROUTE 92. BELLINZONA TO LUGANO AND COMO BY THE MONTE CENERE. To Como, 5 posts=33 English miles. To Lugano, 53 Swiss stunden=16 Italian miles 17 English miles. Diligences daily to Lugano, This road turns out of the valley of the Tessin at Cadenazzo (p. 218.), about 4 miles below Bellinzona, and begins to ascend the Monte Cenere, a steep ridge surmounted by means of numerous zigzags. The top may be reached in 2 hours from Bellinzona. This part of the road was formerly infested by robbers, and, not long ago, the night diligence, in crossing it, was accompanied by an armed escort; but, since a guardhouse of carabineers has been established on the summit, there appears to be no longer danger. From the 221 summit, a fine view is obtained over the N. extremity of the Lago Maggiore; but a far more interesting prospect opens out on the opposite descent towards Lugano. In front expands its beautiful lake, backed by mountains; and, on the rt., the Monte Salvadore, with the church on its conical summit, becomes conspicuous. At Rivera, the road falls in with the river Agno, which rises about 12 miles to the E., at the foot of the Monte Camoghè, and follows it through Bironico to Morone, where it turns to the 1., and again ascends a slight eminence, at whose foot lies 2 Lugano (Germ. Lauis)-(Inns : Albergo Suizzero, Post; Corona. Lugano, one of the 3 chief towns of the canton, and the largest, most thriving in trade, and most extending in population, contains 4500 inha bitants, and is charmingly situated on the margin of the Lago Lugano. It deserves to be visited, were it only on account of the beauty of its site, and to explore the scenery of its lake. The hills and mountains around abound in all the productions of the luxurious vegetation of Italy; and numerous villas are scattered along its slopes and margin, embowered among vineyards and gardens, and backed by the dark foliage of the umbrageous walnut. The town contains 3 monasteries and 3 nunneries. The principal Church, or Cathedral of San Lorenzo, is planted on an eminence, commanding a fine view. The portal is richly adorned with sculpture, and the façade is said to be from a design of Bramante. A small chapel, attached to the sequestrated convent of S. Francisco, built by Bramante, has been pulled down. Near the cathedral is a curious bonehouse. Santa Maria degli Angioli, founded in 1499, contains remarkable paintings by Bernhardino Luini; a Crucifixion, and a Madonna, over a doorway, are both works of first-rate excellence; a Last Supper, in the 222 Route 92.-Lugano-Monte Salvadore. refectory of the convent, is of inferior merit. The Hospital was erected previous to the year 1200. There is a Theatre here of recent construction. There are considerable manufactures of silk in Lugano; and the town further derives activity and prosperity from being the entrepôt of goods shipped across the lake from Italy, to be transported over the Alps, and vice versa. A large fair is held here on the 9th October. No less than 3 newspapers are published here, chiefly advocating very democratic principles, and not unfrequently attacking the neighbouring monarchical governments of Austria and Sardinia. There are several printing establishments, which send forth cheap editions of works prohibited in Italy. Environs.-Monte Caprino.-The mountain opposite Lugano is penetrated by [natural grottoes, which have been converted into cellars, called Cantine. Numerous small houses are built over them; so that at a distance they have the appearance of a village. These are much resorted to in summer by the townspeople on account of their coolness. A further inducement to visit this spot is the exquisite view that it com mands. The view from the top of Monte Salvadore is of no common beauty and extent, even though the mountain is only 1980 ft. above the lake. This mountain forms a promontory, washed on two sides by the Lake of Lugano. The view extends over numerous other lakes, and is bounded by the snowy chain of the Alps. Monte Rosa is seen in all its grandeur from hence; and, according to some, the white needles of the Dom of Milan are visible when the atmo sphere is very clear. Keller has engraved the panorama from this mountain. On the summit is a little pilgrimage chapel: the distance is less than 7 miles, and it may be reached on horseback or on foot. "Monte Salvadore stands amid the intricacies of the Lake of Lugano, and is, from a hundred points of view, its principal ornament-rising to a height of 2000 ft., and, on one side, nearly perpendicular. The ascent is toilsome, but the traveller who performs it will be amply rewarded. Splendid fertility, rich woods, and dazzling waters, seclusion and confinement of view contrasted with sealike extent of plain, fading into the sky-and this again, in an opposite quarter, with an horizon of the loftiest and boldest Alps-unite in composing a prospect more diversified by magnificence, beauty, and sublimity, than perhaps any other point in Europe, of so inconsiderable an elevation, commands."-Wordsworth. Lugano is distant only 15 miles from Como and 12 from Varese: the Lago di Como, on the E., may be reached in 3 hours (Route 93.), and the Lago Maggiore in less. A good carriage-road runs to Luino, on its E. shore, described together with the Lago Lugano in Route 93. The road to Como runs by the water-side, under the Monte Šalvadore. The limestone rocks, composing its base, exhibit a singular phenomenon, highly interesting to the geologist. About 10 minutes' walk beyond the chapel of San Martino, a compact, smoke-grey limestone appears by the road-side, in beds about a foot thick. "The further we advance, the more we find the beds of limestone traversed by small veins, lined with rhombs of dolomite. As we advance, the rock appears divided by fissures, the stratification ceases to be distinct, and, where the face of the mountain becomes perpendicular, it is found to be formed entirely of dolomite, which becomes gradually purer and more white, until a little way from Melide, where it is succeeded by a dark augite porphyry." The celebrated geologist Von Buch considers that the gas discharged from this latter igneous rock, at the time when the Routes 92, 93.-Mendrisio-Luino to Lugano. mountain was upheaved by volcanie forces from below, has penetrated the fissures of the limestone, and changed the part of it nearest to the porphyry into dolomite. The change in colour and substance, from a grey limestone into a white crystalline marble, like loaf-sugar, may be easily traced in its gradual transition by the road side. At Melide, a promontory projects into the lake, from the point of which a ferry-boat conveys passengers and carriages across it, in a few minutes, to Bissone, on the opposite side. Melide is the birthplace of Fontana, the architect who, in 1586, transported the Egyptian obelisk from the Colisseum at Rome, and erected it on the square in front of the Va tican. After a delightful ride along the shore of the lake, the road quits it at Capolago, and soon reaches Mendrisio, which, though a small town of 1700 inhabitants, contains 3 convents. It is supposed to be the cradle of the once-powerful Milanese family Della Torre, or Torriani. The famous tower, from which they derived their name, was destroyed in the civil wars of the fourteenth century. The inhabitants keep their wine in caves in the mountains, which form capital cellars. The Austrian custom-house and police-office is reached a little beyond Chiasso, and within 2 miles of 2 СOмO. Italy. See Hand-book for ROUTE 93. LUINO, ON THE LAGO MAGGIORE, TO MENAGGIO ON THE LAGO DI COMO, ACROSS THE LAGO LUGANO. Luino, a small village, on the E. shore of the Lago Maggiore, has a tolerable inn. A good carriage-road leads hence to Lugano, a drive of 3 or 4 hours, ascending directly from the margin of the lake the steep 223 heights behind Luino, which com mand a fine prospect. It then follows the rt. bank of the Tresa, upwards, at a considerable height above that river, through a beautiful valley, crossing the Swiss frontier about 3 miles from Luino, and 9 from Lugano. Ponte Tresa, a village of 365 inhabitants, is named from an old wooden bridge which leads across the river into Lombardy. At the further end stands the Austrian toll and custom-house; and, on this side, a Swiss toll is exacted. A great proportion of the cattle, with which Lombardy is supplied by Switzerland, pass over it. The village is prettily situated on a bay of the Lago Lugano, so completely land-locked as to seem a distinct lake. Another of the winding reaches of the lake stretches N. about half a mile on the E. of our road, as far as Agno, a village of 600 inhabitants, placed at the spot where the Agno, or Bedagio, empties itself into the lake. One of the prettiest scenes on this very picturesque road is that presented by the small lake of Muzzano, which lies on the rt. of the road to Lugano (see p. 221.). The Lago Lugano (called also Cerisio) is exceedingly irregular in shape, making several very acute bends, so that the conspicuous mountain Salvadore stands on a promontory, washed on two sides by its waters: its greatest length is about 20 miles. Its E. and W., and one of its S. arms, terminate in the Austrian territory, and travellers must have an Austrian visa on their passports, to enable them to land there. The scenery of this lake is exceedingly beautiful, and has a character distinct from that of its two neighbours Como and Maggiore, in being more gloomy, rugged, and uncultivated. It at the same time presents great variety; near Lugano its shores are as smiling, as frequently speckled 224 Route 93.-Lagɔ Lugano — Lago di Como. with white villas and churches, and as richly fringed with vines, figtrees, and walnut groves, as the more garden-like borders of the Lago di Como; but, in penetrating its E. bay from Lugano to Porlezza, the mountains gradually assume a more wild and precipitous outline, and the darker foliage of the pine forests furnishes the predominating colour. Boats for passengers and carriages may be hired at Lugano for Porlezza; it takes 3 hours to row thither, and the charge for a boat with two rowers is 8 fr. There is no road along this part of the lake. Porlezza lies within the Lombard frontier, and is the station of the Austrian police and doganiers. Chars may be hired here to go to Menaggio; the road is bad and only practicable for light vehicles. It traverses a very pretty valley, passing on the rt. the little lakes of Piano and Bene. It is a walk of about 2 hours to reach Menaggio, an unimportant village on the W. shore of the Lago di Como. Instead of stopping here the traveller had better either proceed a little way down the lake to Cadenabbia, or cross it to the promontory of Bellagio, or to the opposite shore at Varenna, at all which places there are good inns. Near Tremezzo, a little way beyond Cadenabbia, the Villa Sommariva, among terraces bordered with myrtle hedges and perfumed with citron groves. This palace contains several remarkable works of art paintings by Gaudenzio Ferrari, B. Luini, and others; also the Palamedes of Canova, and, above all, Thorwaldsen's grand bas-relief the Triumph of Alexander, executed for Napoleon when Emperor, and designed by him to decorate the Simplon arch at Milan. Bellagio is a charming spot, commanding perhaps the most splendid views to be met with on any of the Italian lakes. The prospect is double, extending upwards, as well as down towards Como and Lucco. The best points for enjoying it are the terraces and delightful gardens of the Villa Serbelloni. The Villa Melzi, another palace in this neighbourhood, is a charming mansion, elegantly fitted up, chiefly visited on account of its beautiful flower-garden. Varenna (where the Post-house is most agreeable quarters) may be visited on account of the remarkable galleries near it excavated in the solid rock, to allow that magnificent work of art, the Road to the Stelvio Pass, to traverse the E. shore of the lake. The Comasques emigrate all over Europe, as venders of Plaster of Paris figures, barometers, and lookingglasses. A steam-boat starts every morning at 8 from Como, and ascends the lake to Domaso, returning the same evening, and touching at all the principal places on its shores. The fare is 5 fr. 22 c. The steamer returns to Como about 5, corresponding, both in the hour of arrival and departure, with the omnibus (called Velocifera), which runs to and from Milan daily. They who wish to explore the beauties of the lake at their leisure had better take a row-boat. There cannot be a more delighful voyage than that along the S.W. arm of the lake to Como; the shores are literally speckled with villages and with white villas, the summer resort of the Milanese nobility, during the season of the Villeggiatura. The places most worth mentioning on the E. shore are Nesso, backed by a dark wooded gully, out of which dashes a cascade, and near it the Villa Lenno, supposed to stand on the site of Pliny's Villa, which, from its sombre situation, he called Tragedia; an opinion confirmed by the discovery of broken columns, &c., in the lake. Beyond Lenno (Lemnos), in a retired bay, is the Villa Pliniana, a square melancholy building, so called, not because Pliny lived here, but because an intermit Route 93.-Lago di Como. tent spring, rising behind it, is asserted to be the one minutely described by him. Beyond the wooded promontory Torno is Blevio, near which a monument is erected to Mr. Lake, who was drowned here in 1833. Nearer to Como is the Villa Pasta, the residence of the celebrated singer. On the opposite, or W. shore, beginning from Cadenabbia, we may mention Balbiano, on a projecting promontory, the Isola Concacina, Urio, the Villa Passalacqua, with its terraced gardens; and near Cernobbia, the Villa d'Este, so named by Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, who resided here some time, also the Villa Odescalchi, the largest on the lake. The Lake of Como, called by the ancients Lacus Larius (te Lari Maxume!-Virg.), is about 40 miles long, from N. to S. Its S. extremity is divided into two branches by the promontory of Bellagio; at the bot 225 tom of one of these bays lies Como (Comum), the birth-place of Pliny and Volta; and, at the extremity of the other, on the E., Lecco. The chief feeder of the lake is the Adda, which enters it at the N., and flows out at Lecco. The bay of Como has no outlet, so that its waters must also find their way out by the Adda. Taken altogether, it perhaps surpasses in beauty of scenery, and in the richness of its almost tropical vegetation, every other lake in Italy. It enjoys a classical reputation, as the residence of the two Plinys, and the scene of the scientific researches of the elder Pliny, the naturalist. Claudian describes the voyage up the lake in the following elegant lines: "Protinus umbrosâ quâ vestit littus olivâ Larius, et dulci mentitur Nerea fluctu, Parvâ puppe lacum præter volat, Ocius inde Scandit inaccessos brumali sidere montes." |