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dale. The road best adapted for carriages is that by way of Shap; but the nearest and most picturesque road is that by way of Yanwath, Askham, Helton, and Bampton. The latter road quits the Penrith and Pooley Bridge road at Yanwath; after leaving that village, it crosses what was formerly Tirrel and Yanwath Moor, to Askham, five miles from Penrith. Helton is rather more than a mile beyond, and Bampton is nearly four miles further. The grammar school at this village has been long in great repute. Shap, a strag gling village on the mail road between Kendal and Penrith, is five miles distant. The road passes near the ruins of Shap Abbey, lying on the banks of the Lowther, now bare, but once occupied by a thick forest. This abbey, anciently called Heppe, was founded by Thomas, the son of Gospatrick, for monks of the Premonstratensian order, about the year 1150. It was dedicated to St Magdalen. Upon the dissolution, the abbey and manor were granted to Thomas Lord Wharton, from whose descendant, the Duke of Wharton, an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, purchased them. The only part left standing is the church tower. From the vestiges of buildings yet visible, the abbey appears to have been extensive. In the vicinity of Shap are two of those rude structures to which no certain date can be assigned, and which are therefore usually referred to the primitive times of the Druids. Karl Lofts, the name of one, consists of two parallel lines of unhewn masses of granite, half a mile long by sixty or seventy feet broad, terminating at the south extremity in a small circle of similar blocks. Many of the granitic blocks have been barbarously carried off for building purposes, or some other " base use." At a place called Gunnerskeld Bottom there is a circle of large stones, thought to be a sepulchral cairn.

Returning to Bampton, the foot of Hawes Water is reached, a mile and a half beyond that village. The wild wood of Naddle Forest beautifully feathers the steeps of the east shore. Rather more than a mile from the foot of the lake, Fordendale brook is crossed near a few houses, called Measand Becks. The brook makes some pretty falls on the mountain side. A broad promontory enters the lake at this place, and approaches within 200 or 300 yards of the other margin. The mountains surrounding the head of this lake present a magnificent contour. They consist of High Street and Kidsay Pike, with their nameless dependencies. The little chapel of Mardale stands close to the road about a mile above the lake, and over against it is a neat white house, called Chapel Hill, the residence of a yeoman named Holme. The ancestor of this family came originally from Stockholm, and landed in England in the train of the Conqueror. He was rewarded with an estate in Northamptonshire, where the family were seated until the reign of King John, at which period, its head, flying from his enemies, concealed himself in a cavity (to this day called Hugh's cave) in one of the hill sides. The estate on which his descendant resides was purchased by the fugitive. Having wound round a rocky screen, a few houses, called collec

tively Mardale Green, (amongst which there is a small inn,) are seen thinly sown over the floor of the narrow valley. Harter Fell closes in this level area on the south-lofty mountains rise on the east and west, and contribute to make this as perfect a solitude as can well be conceived. The pedestrian will find a road over the pass of Gatescarth, which reaches Kendal by the vale of Longsleddale, fifteen miles from Mardale Green. From Mardale the rambler might ascend High Street, or cross the Martindale Fells to Patterdale, at the head of Ulleswater.

MOUNTAINS.

THE mountains best known and most usually ascended by tourists are-Scawfell, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, Coniston Old Man, and Langdale Pikes, Guides can be procured at any of the neighbouring inns, who, for a moderate compensation, will conduct strangers to the summit by the least circuitous path; and being generally intelligent persons, will point out and name those objects most worthy of notice, which are visible on the ascent or from the highest point. Fine clear days should be selected for an expedition of this kind, as well for the advantage of having an extensive prospect, as for safety. Mists and wreaths of vapour, capping the summits of mountains, or creeping along their sides, are beautiful objects when viewed from the lowly valley; but when the wanderer becomes surrounded with them on the hills, they occasion anything but agreeable sensations, and have not unfrequently led to serious accidents. A pocket compass will be found useful in discovering the tourist's position with reference to the surrounding scenery, and a telescope in bringing within view the more distant parts of it. A flask containing brandy, which may be diluted at the springs on the way, will be found no unnecessary burden. With these preliminary observations, we shall proceed to describe the mountains we have named above.

SCAW FELL.

THE aggregation of mountains called collectively Scawfell, which stand at the head of Wastdale, form four several summits bearing separate names. The most southerly of the four is Scawfell, (3100) feet; the next is Scawfell Pikes, (3160 feet); Lingmell, of considerably inferior elevation, is more to the west, forming a sort of buttress for the support of the loftier heights; and Great End is the advanced guard on the north, having its aspect towards Borrowdale. The whole mass is composed of a species of hard dark slate. The Pikes, being the

highest summit in England, is most commonly the object of the stranger's ambition; some confusion has, however, been caused by the similarity of names, and the lower elevation of Scawfell been attained, where that of Scawfell Pikes was desired. Since the trigonometrical survey, a pile of stones, surmounted by a staff, has been placed on the latter mountain summit; such mistakes, therefore, need not, except through carelessness, occur in future.

The ascent of the two higher mountains may be commenced from several valleys-from Langdale, Borrowdale, or Wastdale. Of these, the station from which the ascent may most readily be made is Strands, at the foot of Wast Water. A boat being taken up the lake, will land the pedestrian at the foot of Lingmell, which projects towards the water. The top of Lingmell being almost gained, a turn must be made to the right, and that direction persevered in for three-quarters of a mile. Deflections to the right and left in succession will place the hardy climber upon Scawfell Pikes. From Borrowdale the best course is to pursue the Wastdale road, until Sty Head Tarn is reached Leaving this tarn on the left, and bending your way towards Sprinkling Tarn, which must also be kept on the left, a turn to the right must shortly be made conducting to a pass called East Haws, having on the left, Hanging Knott, and on the right Wastdale Broad Crag. The summit of Scawfell Pikes is in view from this place, but much exertion will be required before either will be reached, Great End will have to be ascended, and continuing along the summit-ridge, some rocky eminences will be passed on the left. A considerable descent must then be made, and two small hollows crossed, from the second of which the trigonometrical station on the Pikes will be reached. The two elevations of Scawfell and Scawfell Pikes, though not more than three-quarters of a mile distant from each other in a direct line, are separated by a fearful chasm, called Mickle-dore, which compels a circuit to be made of two miles in passing from one to the other. The passage by Mickle-dore, though dangerous, is not impassable, as some of the adventurous dalesmen can testify. All vegetation but that of lichens has forsaken the summits of Scawfell Pikes and its rival, "Cushions or tufts of moss parched and brown," says Wordsworth with his usual poetical feeling," appear between the huge blocks and stones that lie on heaps on all sides to a great distance, like skeletons or bones of the earth not needed at the creation, and there left to be covered with never-dying lichens, which the clouds and dews nourish and adorn with colours of exquisite beauty. Flowers, the most brilliant feathers, and even gems, scarcely surpass in colouring some of those masses of stone."

The view from the Pikes is, of course, of a most extensive description, embracing such a "tumultuous waste of huge hill tops" that the mind and eye alike become confused in the endeavour to distinguish the various objects. The mountains having lost the shapes they possessed when viewed from beaneath, are only to be recognized by those acquainted with the locality of each; however, with the aid of his compass, map, and our directions, the enquiring gazer will be

able to assign its name to most of them. Turning to the south, Morecambe Bay and the Lancashire coast to a great extent are seen, and on clear days the prospect comprehends a portion of the Welsh Highlands. Scawfell intercepts the view of Wast Water and part of the Screes. To the left Eskdale and Miterdale are seen contributing their waters to the ocean. Furness and the Isle of Walney are visible in the same direction, as well as Devoke Water, placed on an elevated moor, beyond which Black Combe is a prominent object. Still more to the east Wrynose, Wetherlam, Coniston Old Man, with the rest of the mountains at the head of Eskdale, Seathwaite and Little Langdale are conspicuous. Bowfell, obscuring Langdale, appears in the east, and beyond, part of the middle of Windermere. Far away, beyond, are the Yorkshire hills with Ingleborough, the monarch of them all, plainly visible. To the left of Bowfell, Langdale Pikes are descried, and in the east the eye rests upon Hill Bell, High Street, Wansfell, Fairfield, Seat Sandal, and Helvellyn in succession. In the north Skiddaw and Saddleback cannot be mistaken, beyond which, the blue mountains of Scotland bound the prospect. Immediately beneath the spectator he will perceive Sty Head Tarn dwindled to a little spot. Great End conceals Borrowdale, and a little to the left rises the mighty mass of Great Gable. Castle Crag, Grange Crag, and Gate Crag, shut out the greater part of Derwentwater. In the north-west are a series of hills, the principal of which are, Causey Pike, Grizedale Pike, Maiden-mawr, Hindscarth and Robinson. Then come the Buttermere and Crummock mountains, with Grasmoor conspicuously visible. Nearer are the Pillar, Hay Cock, High Style, and Red Pike. Westward the eye sinks into the depths of Wastdale, round which are piled Kirkfell, Yewbarrow, Seatallan, and Buckbarrow. The Irish sea bounds the whole western horizon, and over the extremity of the vale of Wast Water the Isle of Man can be sometimes perceived.

HELVELLYN.

This mountain is more widely known by name than any other, partly from its easiness of access, and its proximity to a turnpike road, over which a coach passes daily within a mile and a-half of the summit, and partly in connection with a melancholy accident which some years ago befel a stranger upon it, whose fate, the elegiac verses of Wordsworth and Scott have contributed to make universally lamented. It stands, the highest of a long chain of hills, at the angle formed by the vales of Grasmere, Legberthwaite, and Patterdale, about half way between Keswick and Ambleside. From its central position and its great altitude, it commands an extensive map-like view of the whole Lake district, no fewer than six lakes being visible from its summit, whilst the circumjacent mountains present themselves in fine arrangement. Its height is 3055 feet above the level of the sea, being something more than a hundred feet lower than Scawfell Pikes, and higher than Skiddaw by thirty-three feet. Its geological structure is slate in one part and in another a flinty porphyry.

The ascent of Helvellyn can be effected from several quarters. Grasmere, Legberthwaite, Wythburn, and Patterdale, severally afford advantageous points for the commencement of the escalade, the two latter, however, lying in diametrically opposite directions, are the places where it is usually begun. It may be well, perhaps, to mention, that ponies can be used for a great portion of the way if the lowland be quitted at Grasmere, a facility of which none of the other paths will admit. The ascent from Wythburn, though the shortest, is the steepest. A guide can be procured at the little inn which stands near the chapel, but as the path is easily discovered without his assistance, many persons will feel inclined to dispense with this restraint upon their motions and conversation. The path, which begins to ascend almost at the inn-door, will be pointed out by the people of the inn. A spring, called Brownrigg's Well, issuing from the ground within 300 yards of the summit, sends out a stream, which, after rushing violently down the mountain's side, crosses the highway 200 or 300 yards from the Horse's Head at Wythburn. Taking this stream as a guide, the stranger need have no fear of losing his way, for Helvellyn Man is a little to the left, at the distance we have mentioned, above its source. In the ascent, a small sheet of water, called Harrop Tarn, will be seen under Tarn Crag, a lofty precipice on the opposite side of the receding valley. The scars, seams, and ravines, -"the history of forgotten storms,

On the blank folds inscribed of drear Helvellyn,"*

which indent the mountain on all sides, will forcibly impress upon every beholder the possible vastness of the effects of those elements whose ordinary results are so trivial.

From Patterdale, the glens of Grisedale and Glenridding may be either of them used as approaches to Helvellyn. The latter glen is to be preferred, as the stream flowing through it, which has its rise in the Red Tarn, may be taken as a guide up the mountain. This tarn lies 600 feet immediately below the highest elevation, fenced in on the south-east by a ridge of rock called Striding Edge, and on the north-west by a similar barrier, called Swirrel Edge. Catchedecam, the termination of the latter, must be ascended, and the ridge crossed, in order to attain the object of the climber's ambition. Although the path along this ridge may be somewhat startling, there is no real danger to be apprehended. Sometimes, from mistake or fool-hardiness, Striding Edge is taken; but this is at once appalling and perilous, for at one part the path is not more than two yards broad, with a tremendous precipice on either side. It was at this spot that Charles Gough met with the accident which caused his death.+ The Edge be

*HARTLEY COLERIDGE.

This unfortunate "young lover of nature" attempted to cross Helvellyn from Patterdale one day in the spring of 1805, after a fall of snow had partially concealed the path, and rendered it dangerous. It could never be ascertained whether he was killed by his fall, or had perished from hunger. Three months elapsed before the body was found, attended by a faithful dog, which he had with him at the time of the accident.

"This dog had been through three months' space

A dweller in that savage place;

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