We should your devote to this part of his argument, he makes | by preaching revolt against it, he yet shows good his point as to the method of the divine that they instilled principles which must ineducation, and establishes incidentally, not fallibly work its destruction, and set up a only that the Mosaic code was beneficent when society which has been its untiring enemy compared with any code not produced under stock case of Philemon and Onesimus is simfrom that day to this. His answer to the the influence of Christianity, but that "the ply to transcribe the passage from St. Paul's religious system of the Jews was spiritual Epistle-and we know of no answer that can compared with that of the most refined and cul- be more perfect. The argument of this sectivated heathen nations." Having thus shown tion is not so carefully elaborated as that that he is not inventing a principle for his par- should it be? We think Mr. Goldwin Smith which relates to the Old Testament, as why ticular case, he then, in sections II. and III., turns to Hebrew slavery, which he treats of not be careful to argue with men who dare to right again here in his method. in detail, showing what it was in patriarchal cite Him who taught that all men were brethtimes, in the tents of Abraham and Isaac, and ren, who came amongst men as a carpenter's what in later times, when the family had de- son who washed His disciples' feet, who said, veloped into a nation, and contrasting it step in the most solemn hour of His life, "Whosoby step with Greek, Roman, Anglo-Saxon ever will be chief among you let him be slavery, and lastly, with the "peculiar insti- servant," as a witness for a system which denies a whole race of men every right of tution as it exists in the United States. manhood, and deliberately proclaims and uses We were quite prepared for most of the con- them as personal chattels. No! argument is clusions at which Mr. Smith arrives. We thrown away here. It is better to put the knew that nowhere in the Old Testament is case and so leave it, as Mr. Smith has done. there a hint of any warranty for treating men "Let the masters and slaves in America beas things and not as persons, but we confess come really fellow-Christians, let them bethat we did not know that the case was so come in a true sense one Church, let them strong as it stands on the Old Testament read the same Bible, let them partake of the share the same Christian education, let them books. We have never met elsewhere with communion together, and it will then be seen the ultimate test put as Mr. Smith has put whether the relation between fellow-Chrisit, and which, the moment it is put, we rec- tians is really compatible with the relation ognize as the true one. "What was the between master and slave." practical effect of the Mosaic legislation in the matter of slavery? Was the nation of Moses a slave power?" Let those who claim the Bible as the sanction of the slave-owner point to one single mark of a Slave State, social, economical, or political, which they can detect in the Hebrew commonwealth-let them put their finger in the Hebrew annals on one slave insurrection, one servile war, let them show us signs amongst the chosen people of a slave-market, of a Fugitive Slave Law, of a contempt for labor as degrading to free men. If they cannot do this, let them, at least, point to one other nation which has held slaves in large numbers, and in which any one of these signs has been wanting. If they can do neither of these things we have a right to conclude, with Mr. Smith, that the Mosaic code, so far from fostering slavery, actually educated the most stiff-necked and hard-hearted people of the Old World so as to deliver them, even before the Christian era, almost wholly from the curse of slaveowning. In his fourth section Mr. Smith comes to the New Testament. And here, while quite admitting that our Lord and his apostles did not directly assail the institution of slavery Mr. Smith's position gives this essay a special value. He is a well-known Oxford professor, and has a right to speak with aunot be thought to be justifying the Bible thority; he is a layman, and therefore will from professional motives. But the worth of the work itself, calm, brave, and able as it is, and coming out at so critical a moment in the history of the English controversy as to the author's name never been heard before. For Bible, must have made a way for it had the ourselves, we cannot help hoping that this essay will do more than any previous publication to restore the tone of English society on the slavery question. We are sure that it must in many cases (as the author hopes) "help to relieve the distress caused by doubts as to the morality of the Old Testament on other points as well as on the question of slavery." It is refreshing every now and then to be able heartily and unreservedly to praise a book, especially if we have been often at issue with the author in times past, as has been our own case with respect to Mr. Goldwin Smith. That pleasure we can enjoy to-day We have only one single fault to find with that book, and that is, that it is too dear. To have done its work thoroughly, it should have been published for 1s. instead of 2s. 6d. From The Cornhill Magazine. PAINT, POWDER, PATCHES. WHEN Lord Foppington "entered into human nature," which is his grand euphuism for being born, his first object seems to have been to change his person as speedily as possible. The Foppington race, male and female, have followed the fashion with alacrity; but my lord was not the first of his race. In all times, and in as many climes, there has been a certain disinclination to leave matters as Nature gave them; and probably nothing has more extensively suffered, in this way, than the head. If to the head nature gave one shape, to the face one complexion, to the hair one color, to the ears one form, fashion forthwith held it as her privilege to give another. It was so of old, and it is so now. Then, what vexation must it have been to lovers who were poets, in those old benighted places, where to be bald was to be lovely! In those places, mostly in Asia, where relics of the fashion may still be met with, a nymph with flowing locks would have been a monster to be shunned by her disgusted swain. But a fine smooth, hairless pate, if you please, that was a matter to take a man's heart away. A young girl's head, which she had rendered as bald and as ruddy as the sunny side of an apple, that was the magic by which disturbance was carried into the bosoms of adorers! Only to be permitted to touch this highly polished surface of all that was dear to him, was felicity to a wooer! but permission to touch with his lips the sinciput of the bald beloved-oh, the ecstasy is not to be told! was formerly the custom to shave one side of the head and to wear curling locks over the other, precisely as the lay figure does in hairdressers' shops, whereby is represented the condition of an individual's head before and after using the fructifying pomade sold on the premises. In Gallia-Comata must have arisen the once famous race of French friseurs. Fashion gave a name to a country, and made glorious the calling of artistes en cheveux. Montaigne, I think, was never so angry as The ladies and gentlemen of Pontus, for when he referred to the old fashion of the example, and of other Eastern cities were Gauls who wore their hair long before and proud of such children as had sugar-loaf shaved it close behind. The philosophical heads. It was a sign they were of the right essayist was not angry with his ancestors, tap; and when a child was born, it was the but with his contemporaries. He lays it first duty of all concerned to mould its head lustily on these wanton youths and effeminate into the figure of the conical cap once worn gallants who had renewed the old barbarous by Oriental potentates. In old days, in Bel- fashion, or who at least had so far renewed gium and Portugal, newly made mothers it as to wear long dangling locks before, looked on with delight at the efforts made to with a close crop behind; but fashion has shape the infant's head according to the pre-gone even beyond this. In South Africa it vailing fashion-the long, and not the high head being then deemed the most aristocratical. To help to the attainment of this effect, little babies were always put to sleep resting on their sides and temples. Ancient Germany had also an especial regard for her damsels, among whom short heads were the distinctions of beauty. If Pericles was satirized by the comedians of his time, it was because the old dame who assisted at his birth had left his head as. she found it, and had not The European fashion of powdering the shaped it into the very round form which hair white was long an astonishment and a alone obtained favor in the eyes of the Athe-stumbling-block to other nations. To simunian ladies, marriageable or not. It would late an effect of old age seemed to them an take a volume to show merely the various fashions among heads, and I am induced to believe, that not only the dog-headed but the headless people, of whom we read in ancient authors, were so called from certain modes, according to which the former won their designation, and the latter so stooped, in order to look dignified, that their heads seemed, as old writers described them, not growing on their shoulders, but out of their breasts. absurdity worthy only of savages. When the ambassador of young George the Third exhibited his royal master's portrait to a mandarin, the latter only remarked, "This cannot be he, for you told me your king was young, whereas here is a gray-headed man." Eastern nations, indeed, wore powder also; but with them it was only for the purpose of turning the hair black, for which purpose we" savages" have, and always have had, certain devices. At the end of the last cen tury there was a particular tinge of red hair into triangles. But the prettiest story I know (and very beautiful, but very rare, it is; you of eyebrows is of those which shaded the may see it in the pictures of old masters) lovely eyes of the most lovely young Lady which came into fashion. And to give this Lennox, daughter of the Duke of Richmond. tinge to hair which did not possess it, a pow- Her sire bade her look with favor on a suitor der was invented by a French artist, and unknown to her; but Lady Georgiana cared much patronized by Marie Antoinette. This only to look with favor on Henry Fox (afterwas the poudre-maréchale. It was of a spark-wards Lord Holland). When the duke first ling reddish brown, and had such an effect informed his daughter that the suitor of whom in heightening the complexion that actresses he approved would appear that day at dinner, took to it kindly, and abused it outrageously. and expressed a hope that, all wayward as Now this poudre-maréchale was only a re- she was, she would make herself agreeable turn to that old mode whereby reddish hair to him, the young lady was resolved to do the was esteemed the only killing color for a lady. very reverse. She went to her dressing-room, But I think the old modish red (of the Saxon, cut off her eyebrows, frightened her wouldfor instance) was only red in the sense that be lover by her strange appearance, and then gold is said to be so by the poets. Certainly ran away with the old lover, who was not in golden hair was a snare to Saxon hearts, and the least alarmed by it. The sacrifice of Pethe girls whose heads lacked that enchant-ruvian eyebrows to the sun was a poor conment used to try to acquire it by sitting in ceit, compared with this of Lady Georgiana the sun; and when that process failed they were wont to sprinkle their locks with powder of saffron, and in cases where this failed, with powder of sulphur. The old fathers vehemently censured this custom, and declared that hell-fire would come of it; but the female part of Tertullian's congregation Gallicized themselves with saffron or sulphur powder only the more vehemently. We laugh at this vanity, but "jessamine butter," it is not to be forgotten, was largely used in King Charles's time, with a similar end in view. In the same king's reign first arose the fash-being laid back on to the cheek. That must ion of using hot irons to frizzle the hair. After all, this was but a plagiarism from the Romans. The hair, which in Charles's time was brought down over the forehead, in both men and women, and almost down to the eyebrows, went up again under the Roundheads, who brought furrowed foreheads into fashion, as denoting righteousness. Now, it was the delight of a Scythian, also, that the forehead should appear wrinkled. Aristophanes said of the Samians that they were the best-lettered nation he knew. The fact was, men and women, as if inaugurating patches, wore the impress of letters on their foreheads and cheeks. The eyebrows, too, have suffered as much abuse of nature as the forehead in which they are set. Some people reduced them to a line, others cultivated them into a ridge; Peruvian women cut them off and offered them to the sun, and in Purchas's Pilgrims, mention is made of some Eastern women who ran their eyebrows Lennox to love; and it is pleasant to record that, in the latter case, they not only grew again, but with them abounding joy and ever increasing happiness-till her ladyship fell into the habit of taking six hundred drops of laudanum daily! Then, what tricks used to be played with the eyelids—and, indeed, very pretty consequences are obtained by the discreet playing of them even now. It was far different of old, when Hottentot damsels contrived to turn them back over the brow, the under portion have been a sight to move a lover! Painted eyelids, again, may have been perilous to look at; but I do not understand the idiosyncrasy of those Transatlantic Indians who loved their charmers best when their eyelids had no lashes to them. Such a fashion would have robbed of her charms that lady richly endowed in beauty of the eyes, who is mentioned by the Prince de Ligne, and who was so proud of her dowry, that if you asked how her ladyship did, she would answer, "I suffer a little in my superb eyes." The hussy! Thereby suffered myriads of men. I do not know why the nose and ears have been especially chosen for adornment by honest folk of old, and of small cultivation. Goldand silver and precious stones have been especially their portions. Nevertheless, if a Mogul lady had a nose from which a ring could hang, she would certainly cut it off. A couple of nostrils and no nose used to form the most perfect idea of beauty in the mind of a Tar tar lady of good principles and unimpeach-cial question of the period. Jealousy sharpable taste. And I am inclined to think that ened their ingenuity; and the motion of a I would rather make love to her than to those ruffled consort of one of the most faithless Eastern ladies mentioned by pagan, and those of the husbands, to cover the pretty cheeks Western ladies noticed by early Christian and of the captives with hideous spots, was unanequally veracious, writers, whose ears, by ar-imously adopted. tificial fashionable training, reached down to their feet, and were so broad that the fair one could wrap herself round with them, and hide a couple of friends beneath them, into the bargain! Into what monstrosities the prettiest lips in the world may be turned we all know who have seen portraits of the Batuecas. Pretty cheeks, too, have suffered in this respect, and some have thought that patches were but the descendants of those cheek-scars which the primitive wives of primitive and balafré'd warriors used to inflict on themselves, in order to look like their much battered lords. This may have been so, but another origin, and indeed more than one, may be assigned to the fashion of wearing patches. Nothing, I believe, is more certain than that the patches or scars, and the tattooing of savage tribes, were originally used by them to celebrate some particular event, to honor some great warrior, or to perpetuate the memory of some vast calamity. There is, however, another theory touching this question which I will briefly narrate. Once upon a time-the chronology is fixed after some such fashion by Clearchus-a number of Thracian women fell captives into the hands of certain Scythian ladies. The prisoners were better favored than their mistresses, and as this pleasant fact did not escape the admiring eyes of their masters, the Scythian ladies were sorely troubled thereat; and there was dissension in many a household. The Scythian husbands, however, let their hard-featured wives rail on, but they made Hebes of their captive handmaidens, and as these lifted the cup to the brawny hands of their lords, the latter, with their habitual indifference to propriety, would pat the cheek of the bearers, look on their wives, and laugh "consumedly." And the cheeks of these maidens, glowing as the rose in the diffusive rays of the sun, became hateful in the eyes of the much vexed matrons. How they might mar the beauty that was there enthroned became with the community of angry wives the most serious so2 But what spots? The blooming Thracian girls would not drink strong drinks, like their thirsty and bloated owners, and thereby redden their noses or fix fever-patches on their cheeks. As for beating them, the eyes of the weepers seemed all the brighter for the tears which fringed their lids-nay one Seythian Lothario had been seen absolutely kissing them off. There was not much of the Samaritan spirit in him, but in this work of humanity the labor took the guise of a labor of love. The ladies were driven to their wit's ends? At this juncture, one of the more angry fair, playing with the point of the dagger which she had drawn from her zone, remarked that she could cheerfully run an inch of it into the impertinent cheeks of these foreign hussies. This hint led to the suggestion of slashing their faces. The men were just then all absent, occupied in matters of hunting or of battle; what was easier than to seize the fair captives and make them ugly forever. Fear of their terrible consorts, however, restrained them for awhile; restrained them, indeed, until they resolved so to shape their act of vengeance that it should take the form of a compliment to their husbands. Thereupon, they seized the reluctant prisoners, bound them, and, with needles, pricked the right cheek of each into little patterns of sun, moon, and stars, which they filled up with dye; and, when the Scythian squires returned, after long absence from home, the ladies presented the Hebes, as new editions corrected and improved. The accomplished fact was not accepted with alacrity by the gentlemen, and yet it led to a permanent fashion. The scattered figures were united by waving lines, symmetry was given to the pattern, which was extended to both cheeks, and the Scythian dames adopted it, by especial command of their tyrants. Thus was made the first attempt to introduce patches, not placed upon, but cut into, the flesh. It only partially succeeded; but it led to tattooing. From Scythia to Ely, and from the " once upon a time " of Clearchus to the seventh | bright stars in a firmament of spiritual beauty. century of the Christian era, is a wide step" Wash!" he would exclaim; "fie upon your washing! Besides, Ethelreda washed every hour, though ye know it not?" "Oh! 99 exclaimed the captious folk, then it certainly was not her face!" "Face here, face there!" said St. Thomas; the good queen and saintly lady washed her heart hourly; what profit would there have been to her in washing the body, after that? None! and water never touched it, except it fell upon her in the form of rain." to make over time and space; but the step brings us to that queen and saint, Ethelreda, whose familiar Saxon name, St. Audry, and her own habits, as well as those bought and sold at the fair held on her festival day in June, have added to our vocabulary that very significant epithet tawdry. Ethelreda had been a lively young lady, and had worn the only brilliant necklaces to be seen in the East Anglian court of her sire in Suffolk. But much dissipation and two husbands had Accordingly, the personal cleanliness of the made her look upon all worldly enjoyments as queen was accounted as unnecessary, seeing so much vanity, and the queen withdrawing the amount of spiritual bathing to which she from "society "—for that terrible institution subjected her heart. How long Ethelreda's was in force, even in those early days-shut fashion prevailed it would be difficult to deherself up in a monastery, took to rigorous termine; perhaps the fact that her "spots" ways, renounced the use of water, except as were lauded by Thomas of Ely led to the a beverage, and became covered with spots wearing of patches, not by ladies, but by about the neck and face, to her infinite of mind and general satisfaction. peace men. In Webster's time men wore patches for rheums; and Angelina, in the Elder Brother, alludes to patches being worn by men, in her speech to Eustace :— ""Tis not a face I only am in love with ; No, nor your visits each day in new suits, All which but show you still a younger St. Audry had no idea that these unsightly patches were the results of severity of life. She laid them to the account rather of luxury and vanity. "I was once too proud," she would say, "of those splendid carbuncles which my mother, Hereswylda, gave me when I married poor Toubercht; and now I have an assortment of them which I think more beautiful still." Her nuns, for she was lady-abbess of her damp convent, thought, as they looked at her, that she would be none the less seemly to the eyes of beholders if she would but cover what she called her carbuncles, with patches. The royal lady-abbess would not hear of it, but thereby the wear-away, but that the fashion was, as in Beauing of patches became a symbol, if not of religion, at least of a desire to be considered religious. Lacking the carbuncles, people who admired Ethelreda wore the patches as if the wearers possessed those precious signs of a rigid rule of life which they pretended to cover. Common-sense folk, with reasonable ways of looking at a matter, pronounced this fashion as being a thoroughly tawdry affair. The allusions to patches in Butler denote that the wearing of them by men had passed mont and Fletcher's time, whose description refers to their own period, the same as to form and variety with that noticed in the above quotation. I think the fashion died out under the Commonwealth, but that it revived with the Restoration. Quiet men and honest women, however, were not always in a hurry to accept the fashion stamped by the approval of such a court as that of Charles the Second. Patches, nevertheless, had a fascinating effect on some of the most honest but, in this respect, most yielding of women. Do you not remember that August morning of 1660, when Mrs. Pepys came down-stairs to breakfast, and very much astonished the good, yet too gallant, little man, her husband? They had been five years married, and few had been the |