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he did not even pretend to that higher power needed no such vent. Whenever we were through which the divine impelling idea is riding along more quietly together side by seen through all the ignorance with which it side, or in Indian file, in the narrow, rocky may be clothed, and fanaticism with which it paths, or dismounted, walking arm in arm, may be darkened, that sympathetic insight, constant bright and suggestive talk. I am which would clear the great historian of all endeavoring carefully, but with difficulty, to one-sided bitterness, and give to the conflicts avoid entering on the subjects of our converof mankind an aspect at once humorous and sations, the results of our disputations; it tragical.
would lead me, for the present, at least, too From Jerusalem Mr. Buckle wrote: “I far. must tell you that I am stronger both in But, as a fact, rather than an opinion, I mind and body than I have ever been since may note that on riding out of Shechem you knew me, and I feel fit to go on at once (Nablous), where we had seen a good deal of with my work. But I neither read nor write the last of the Samaritans, and been fortunate -1 think, I see, and I talk. Especially I in obtaining some of their MSS., our first restudy the state of society, and the habits of marks to each other were on the remarkable. the people. We shall stay here to the end handsomeness of these men. We had been of this week, and then go to Jericho, the Jor- at the synagogue that morning. There were dan, Dead Sea, and Bethlehem,-and thence the heads of the seventy families. Every northward for Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, man of them was full six feet or upwards; Damascus, and Baalbec, etc. I feel boyish erect, and well proportioned ; with very fine, enough for anything, and fancy myself grow- though, of course, Jewish features ; beautiing younger; yet I am old, very old-forty fully clear, fair complexions, and dark, luson the 24th of last November. It's a great trous eyes. " But," said I, “ these families age.”
are all close cousins, and intermarry but with On Monday, the 22d of April, we rode out each other.” We had no gallop for a long of Jerusalem to Bethlehem, on the summit of time that morning; for the physiological its curving terraced hill, amid the hills of the laws of breeding in-and-in, the influence of shepherds, and looking towards the far-dis- race, the worth of phrenological indications, tant ridgy mountains of Moab. We slept and related subjects, occupied us, and gave that night at the famously picturesque Greek our horses rest. Convent of Marsaba. Thence, next day, over The vast plain of Esdraelon, famous battlethe hill and down to the Dead Sea ; at full field, and Armageddon, they say, of prophgallop across to the Rapids of the Jordan, ecy, I shall ever associate with the melanwhere all but Mr. Buekle bathe to wash off choly end of all Mr. Buckle’s grand schemes. the Dead Sea salt; thence a splendid ride It was Sunday, the 27th of April. More exacross the plain of Jericho, winding at length ultingly than ever he expressed his feelings through shrubberies and cornfields, in the of health and hope. The conversation was purpling sunset, past the Crusaders' Tower on liberty; on the influence the new ideas to the mounds, where, above the ruins, our had already had, and would still further tents were pitched ; and next day, by Beth- bave, in moulding law, national and internaany, back to Jerusalem; thence, on the mor- tional; on toleration, and on progress. But row, we began, through bleak, stony hills, that day he was attacked with diarrhoea, the our journey northward.
proximate cause of his death ; and the cause In Palestine our dromedaries were ex- of the diarrhoea was, doubtless, chiefly overchanged for horses, and baggage-camels for fatigue and over-excitement. mules;
and Mr. Buckle gave up his Cairene In the afternoon, up the hills of Galilee, . donkey to mount a Syrian Arab. He had and down into the glen of Nazareth. Passnot been on horseback for twenty years; yet ing through the town, we encamped under the excitement of the scenes through which the trees, by Mary's Well. That night there we passed, and their rushing historical asso- was a thunder-storm; the rain soaked through ciations made a tearing gallop on every toler- the tents, notwithstanding their water-proof ably level stretch irresistible. And many covering. Mr. Buckle caught cold, and a were the rows we consequently had with our very bad sore throat imprisoned him in the master of the horse and escort, whose feelings convent for more than a week. I was thus
very much alone at Nazareth ; in the convent the morrow, surmounting the White Cape, most of the day, in case of Mr. Buckle’s re- we descended into Phoenicia ; on the left,
the quiring anything--for he was too ill to make sea ; on the right, the hill villages of the himself distinctly understood by the servants Metawileh ; high over these, in the far dis-and with a morning and afternoon walk. tance, White Lebanon. But though there was little sight-seeing, time As the boys and I were rushing at full galwas not perhaps lost in that little upland lop along the sands, close by the sea, we glen, like a compact Highland property. passed an English party riding from the diThe recollection of the famously beautiful rection of Tyre. Turning round, I saw Mr. music in the church to the convent reminds Buckle, who was a little behind, speaking to me to note that Mr. Buckle cared nothing for one of the party. I rode back, and found music; and this may be found in harmony he was a gentleman with whom I alŝo was with his other characteristics.
acquainted, and that we had just passed the Next week, thanks to, or notwithstanding, Prince of Wales. Riding on, I turned round an Armenian physician and a Spanish doctor- again, and behold Hassan, trying to overtake monk, Mr. Buckle was sufficiently recovered us, somehow unseated, slide suddenly over his to continue the journey to the Sea of Galilee. horse's tail, falling on the sands. The borse, There he chiefly interested himself with the much relieved, turned round and neighed at Jews of Tiberias, that ancient seat of Hebrew his prostrate master And it was a fine thing learning; not so much with the land of Ge- to smile at among the various, unseated, and nesareth and the Mount of Beatitudes ; and I other royalties of the scene. need not, therefore, here, of these Holy Places We rode on, and entered the famous city. say anything. Thence we returned to Naza- We could not but be struck with the absence reth, encamping by the Fountain of the Vir- of that “ desolation "we had heard preached gin once more. Sitting at the door of the about. Tyre is, in fact, a thriving town, tent after dinner, with our coffee and chibouks, with some sixty vessels usually in port. We he capped a remark I made on the extremely lunched in a garden on the Mole of Alexanpretty, erect, graceful, and picturesquely at- der. Returning to complete our examinatired Marys passing us, with their pitchers, tion of the ruins, we found the prince had to and from the fountain, by quoting with not only re-embarked, but that the squadron characteristic aptitude Molière’s “Fi, fi! was already in the offing; and we remarked n'as-tu pas honte d'être si belle ?”
the rapid progress on the royal road to learnOver the circling hills of Nazareth ; past ing. à gathering-place of the Crusaders ; and the Next day we got into lodgings at Sidon; ruins of a Roman capital ; along a rich plain, but the day after removed to the convent, for its distance magnificent with mirage ; through Mr. Buckle again found himself over-fatigued parklike, wooded hills ; and down at length and ill ; and, indeed, the state of his health into the grand plain of Acre, covered with made it necessary for us to give up, though flocks and herds, or rich with crops. Riding with much regret, the proposed journey from into the town, we were conducted through Sidon to Damascus, and proceed direct to the fortifications by the consul, and told Beyrout. So, after three days' stay, we the story of British victory. Would it were bade adieu to the courteous French consul completer! We looked down into dark dun- and Padre Germano, and left Sidon between geons under our feet, where were two hun- its beautiful gardens and the sea.
For one dred wretches, chained two by two, hand and day, along sand and across promontories ; foot, and begging, like dogs, for something to the next morning, over sandy downs, through be thrown them. 66 Les misérables !
olive and pine forests, orchards, and mulNext day, striking our tents on the glacis, berry gardens ; above, the snowy peaks of we rode on over the magnificent plain, through peopled Lebanon; below, the burning sands the wealthiest crops, and most odorous orange by the sea, till we entered Beyrout. groves, climbed the Scala Tyriorum, and From Beyrout, 14th May, is dated Mr. looked down on the gleaming Bay of Acre Buckle's last letter: “We have arrived here and the Phoenician Landstrip, with Tyre in to-day all well, after a journey from Jerusathe distance. In the afternoon we encamped lem, interesting beyond all description. We at Alexander's Fountain, by the Sea. On diverged westward, after visiting the Sea of
Galilee, in order to travel through Phoenicia. carriage and five (one of the animals a mule), We saw Tyre and Sidon, and got much val- on the French road. Thus ascending the steep uable information respecting the excavations terrace-cultivated Lebanon, looking down conducted there for the last eighteen months on the cloud-shadowed splendor of the sea, by the French Government. : .. To-mor- Mr. Buckle, much recruited by the couple row we shall see the Assyrian remains near of day's rest at Beyrout, was once more himhere; and the next day start for Damascus, self again. He talked of the views by which Baalbec, and return to Beyrout by the Cedars he had united the “Wealth of Nations ? of Lebanon, the oldest and grandest trees in and the “ Theory of Moral Sentiments ;" the world.
of the effect of the gold discoveries on prices, " I have most reluctantly abandoned Con- and of the ultimate cause of the interest of stantinople because — although we should be money. It was our last conversation of any there and the Danube long before the un- importance. We encamped that evening on healthy season -I am advised that the nights the green base of Lebanon, Overlooking Coeleon the river are occasionally damp and dan- syria. Next day we had to mount our horses gerous for weak eyes. And as I cannot quite again to ride across the red and green plain, satisfy myself about the protection which and up Antilebanon. Mr. Buckle came into berths afford, I don't choose to risk my little camp that night, again over-fatigued and Eddy boy to having inflamed conjunctiva, for ill. Late on the evening of the next day we he has now had nothing in the least the mat- entered Damascus, but Mr. Buckle was alter with his eyes for more than five months; most dead with fatigue ; yet we had rested and I intend to bring bim back sound and in- for three hours during the overpowering heat vigorated in all respects. The only other of midday in an Arab hostelry at Dimas. route to Vienna is by Trieste. We must Crossing the Sah’ra desert in the blinding therefore take the steamer from here to Smyr- glare, he had dismounted to walk, leaning na, Syria, and Athens; but shall see little heavily on my arm, and again, after descendor nothing of Greece, as the weather will be ing into an exquisitely rich many-watered too hot. The journey is not very interesting, glen, fording its streams, and ascending but we have had our fill of interest, and must through over-hanging trees, we rested at the think of health.
roadside Café of the Fountain. It was quite " I expect to be at Trieste about the mid- open, and simple enough, but there was a dle of June ; and as you said that the end hospitable shade, and a place to spread our of July would suit you to reach Vienna, this carpets to lie down. Past him — lying there, leaves me a clear month, which I purpose worn with fatigue, and soothing over-excited spending at Gratz or Grätz, in Styria, on the nerves with the grateful fumes of a chibouk railroad between Trieste and Vienna. It is - rode a numerous Turkish hunting party; very healthy, has fine air, and is well known and as one after one the long cavalcade reined for masters and education."
their horses at the fountain under the trees, Such, but a fortnight before his death, was you could look from a mind-worn body to Mr. Buekle's last letter.
wiry vigor and glowing health. At Beyrout the contract with our drago To the road again, and down to the green man, who had latterly behaved exceedingly rushing Pharpar (Barada). As I was riding ill, terminated ; and Mr. Buckle and I parted on a little in advance, by this winding, deepcompany ; for he was uncertain whether he channelled stream - here like a very torrent should be able to proceed, as he desired, from of life-I heard a cry behind me, and lookDamascus to Baalbec, and was unwilling to ing round, saw Mr. Buckle in an agony of stand in the way of my visiting these re- fear clinging to the neck of his horse. A nowned ruins. My dragoman's agreement stirrup had suddenly given way, and he had mutually bound us to return from Baalbec been almost thrown. The effect of this on and the Cedars. By Mr. Buckle’s agreement nerves so overworn by excitement as his now he might return direct from Damascus. The were can easily be imagined. He was now former, as with certainty requiring a longer quite beyond concealing fear; and as I astime, was of course at a lower rate.
sisted him from his horse he said " a sweat We however proceeded to Damascus to- of terror had burst over him.” He lay down gether, starting on the 16th of May, in a by the rushing Pharpar, and I gave him some
water froin it to drink. It was very sad to of evening. Never, it seemed to Mr. Buckle, see so bold a mind with a body which had so should we reach the gates. At length our miserably fallen away from it. It was like horses' feet clattered on a stone pavement, the torrent by which he lay, losing itself, all and at length we entered the gates of Damasstagnant, on a dead level.
But the reality afforded no such fresh On again ; and when we left the river we excitement to support Mr. Buckle as the diswere again on the desert uplands of Antileb- tant view. Night had fallen; the streets
Slow was our progress, for Mr. Buckle were dark, narrow, winding, ill paved, incould now only just support himself in the fested with surly dogs, and absolutely intersaddle. At length, riding wearily along, minable. Sinking with fatigue, Mr. Buckle we entered a narrow, winding, rocky defile. had to dismount and walk, supported by my Suddenly, at the mouth of the gorge, burst arm. Interminable, dark, winding streets, on us a wondrous scene. Below us, at the without interest—for the Oriental scenes refoot of the barren mountains, stretched far vealed by the occasional lights were in genas the eye in the clear eastern air could see, a eral but an irritating contrast of unbought vast desert; but in its centre was a long strip, repose. At last we came to a little door in wide towards the north, tapering southwards, the side of a dark and little-promising house. of the most gloriously rich vegetation ; amid We might have been inclined to object to the trees and gardens countless domes and being taken to such an inn as this. But now, minarets, and a wide and beautiful meadow anywhere for rest and food. So we descended also, the famous Merj, in the midst of which some steps into a small and dark court; crossgleamed a winding stream. Gazing on this, ing it, we were led along a dark, winding, the most magnificent oasis of the East, Mr. narrow passage, and then a scene burst upon Buckle forgot all his fatigue, and exclaimed, us, the very realization of a dream of the “ It is worth all it has cost me to reach it!” East. It was a great quadrangle, paved with And there was to be his grave.
colored marbles ; in the midst of it, sparkling One can seldom at the time truly say what waters, overhung by orange and other odorifis the cause of the pleasure or pain when one erous trees ; above, the fair blue heavens, and is very much affected. So, then, neither of the golden stars ; at the further end, a deep us could analyze the sources of the pleasure and lofty-vaulted alcove, bright with rich we enjoyed. Not till a considerable time colors ; a luxurious divan round its three after, when standing with Mr. Buckle's great sides ; on its raised floor a long table covmaster near the base of the Asian Olympus, ered with viands, and on the tables, lamps overlooking the Plain of Broussa, did I un- that shone on the faces of friends we had seen derstand why the view of the Plain of Da- last in the shadow of Mount Sinai. The scene mascus had so much affected us. For, gazing had a fitly magical effect on Mr. Buckle, and from the ancient Turkish capital on a wide after having been conducted up an open stairmountain-circled plain of unsurpassed wealth case to one of the lower roofs, and thence to and beauty, green and golden all with trees an open gallery into which opened the large and corn, sparkling with volcanic springs and and beautiful rooms reserved for us, and there winding streams. I saw that similar causes having washed and dressed, he descended to had affected Mr. Buckle when he looked on dinner in the alcove, and was able to converse the Paradise of the Desert, and when, at the with our friends. How exquisite the chibouk Temple of Karnak, under the moon of Egypt, on the divan after dinner, in such a scene, “ the vast masses of light and shade rendered after such a day! it absolûtely appalling.” In both cases the Next day, Monday, Mr. Buckle had so sureffect was in the contrast. The Plain of prisingly recovered from his fatigue as to Broussa has no such contrast, and the im- sally forth immediately after breakfast to pression of its beauty is less.
wander through the famous bazaars. But in But on again ; and, it was now so late, the evening at dinner he was unable to sit in considerable anxiety lest we should find at table, where a party of Austrian nobles. the gates of the city closed. So we descended had taken the place of our friends, who had the barren mountain side, and rode across left that morning. On the divan behind he what of the desert separated us from roads was having brought to him what food he could under overarching trees, dank with the dews/eat. Suddenly I heard a cry from him, and.
springing up, saw him wild and delirious- | enable me still to be in time for the steamer looking; and when I went up to him, he by which it was necessary that I should leave said — Oh, I am going mad!" I half car- Beyrout for Smyrna and Athens. ried him up-stairs to the little open gallery Riding through the long-winding streets before his room door, and there set him on a towards the gate, I was suddenly oppressed chair. In bringing him up-stairs I had or- with a strange presentiment of evil. And dered one of our servants to go immediately the thought occurred to me, Mr. Buckle may for the French doctor Mr. Buckle had seen in certainly be in no danger now, but what if, the morning. His incoherent utterances were in his weak state, he should be attacked by most painful to listen to ; at one moment say- fever, so fatal at this season in Damascus ! I ing “ How nice, very
nice! was the iced considered whether it would be possible still orangeade I had brought him, and thanking to turn back and remain with him. But me, then telling me to go away; in the midst not to speak of the contract which I should of all exclaiming “ Oh, my book, my book! I have to forfeit, my baggage and servants, exshall never finish my book !” and after run- cept the dragoman with me, were a day's ning on quite incoherently, crying, “ I know march ahead, where I was to meet them that I am talking nonsense, but I cannot help it !” evening; an escort of a couple of irregular and bursting into tears.
cavalry had been specially granted me by the When the doctor arrived, it appeared that pasha ; and if I turned back no reason could he had given his patient a dose of opium, and be given for such a change of plans but a Mr. Buckle, on his recovery, attributed to strange presentiment.” And it seemed I this the temporary delirium. And certainly could still effect the chief
I should Mr. Buckle's constitution was, in its nervous have had in view in turning back. So, at & sensibility, so very peculiar, that a physician little roadside café outside the gate, I dismight be readily excused if he chanced to err mounted, wrote, and despatched a messenger in his first prescription.
with a note, urging Mr. Buckle, even if the Next day Mr. Buckle was again better ; diarrhoea were but partially stopped by the and the next, Wednesday, before making medicine I had left with him, to get out as final arrangements for my departure for Baal- soon as possible of the stifling air of Damas bec, I called on the doctor privately and cus, and down to the sea. begged him to tell me candidly what he Ten days after, on the 31st of May, rethought of the state of Mr. Buckle. He turning from a delightful and adventureful assured me that there was no danger, but tour in the Lebanon, and with no expectation that he should advise Mr. Buckle to return but that of finding Mr. Buckle at the Bellevue to Beyrout by the shortest road; told me Hotel, and ready to leave by the next day's that, from his connection with the French steamer, I rode into Beyrout. I went first to Government, he should be able to procure the the consul's for letters and news. The coneasiest possible means of conveyance ; pro- sul said, “ Have you ard nothing?" 1 tested against my proposal to give up my said “No;" and remarking his agitated projected, and indeed, contracted for, tour in countenance, anxiously begged him to teil me the Lebanon, as entirely unnecefsary; and to what he referred. He then gave me all expressed little doubt. but that, on my return the sad intelligence. But it seems unneces to Beyrout, I should find my friend quite re- sary here to give the details of the consul's cruited by a week of its bracing sea-breezes. and the doctor's reports. Suffice it that Mr. I saw also the British consul and missionary, Buckle, after I left, had been attacked by and could feel assured of their kind attention typhus fever, and had, after a thtee days' during the few days the doctor said it might stupor, died. He had once risen and given still be necessary for Mr. Buckle to remain orders for departure, but had fallen down exat Damascus.
hausted. His last act was to beckon one of On the afternoon of the 22d of May, I bade the boys to him, to take Alf's hand, and adieu to Mr. Buckle, who expressed himself murmur “ Poor little boys! Everything as feeling better, and left him all that re- was done for him that the skill of attending mained of the medicines I had had from the physicians and the kindness of an English prescriptions of a London physician. I had nurse (the maid of Lady Eremained to the very last day which would sionary, and of our consul could suggest.
-), of the mis