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NEUTRAL COUNTRIES AND SEA COMMERCE. By Sir Alfred THE SPANISH MOOR'S TRAGEDY.

LONDON, SATURDAY, JANUARY 22, 1916.

CONTENTS.- No. 4.
NOTES:-Contributions to the History of European
Travel, 61-Two Letters by Thomas Holcroft, 64-Statues
and Memorials in the British Isles, 65-Folk-Lore at
Sea. 66-Turning the Cheek for a Kiss-An Epigram by
Julius Cæsar Scaliger - Robert Shorton, Dean of
Stoke, 67—" Staig "-Dickens and the Fox-under-the-

Hill, 68.

brothers, and contain such familiar details as the Ambassador did not think fit to communicate to the Senate or was too busy to transmit to his family. The chaplain was a man of shrewdness and observation, and was endowed with high spirits and unbounded good humour. His letters are genial and well written, and his account of the journey

of the Ambassador and his train from Venice

QUERIES:-A Generation c. A.D 1250-Barker, Chaplain to London is no ordinary traveller's diary, to Queen Katharine of Aragon, 68-Authors Wanted but an extremely interesting narrative. A translation of the whole of the MS. by the late Rawdon Brown is preserved at the Record Office, but has not been printed.* A résumé in which the journey is briefly described appeared in The Quarterly Review for October, 1857; and Busino's notes upon recently been translated and printed in the England, which he called Anglipotrida, have C.S.P. (Venetian), 1617-19, and make excellent reading.

-Father Christmas and Christmas Stockings The Family of Hackett-The Pindar of Wakefield-Cruelty to Animals Col. John Pigott, 69-Resemblances between Semitic and Mexican Languages - Tharp_Family Phillott Will Wanted-Brook's 'Ancient War Odes -Shrines and Relics of Saints - Old-Style Table to Find Easter-Mari the Jewess-Rosicrucians-Life of Johnson in the 1825 Edition of his Works-Strowbridge, Schoolmaster, 1718-Biographical Information Wanted, 70. REPLIES:-The Name of the River Trent, 71-The Vicar of Bray,' 72-Heart-Burials: Dr. Livingstone's HeartWhittington's House, Crutched Friars, 73-Employment of Wild Beasts in Warfare - John Whitfield, ActorRegimental Nicknames, 74-Thomas May, Recorder of Chichester-"Meddle and muddle ”—“ Murray's Railway Reading," 75-The Water of the Nile: the Tigris-' A Lost Love,' by Ashford Owen-Arthur Hughes, the PreRaphaelite Comic Arundines Cami,' 76-Skull and Iron Nail-Col. John Hayes St. Leger-The Newspaper Placard -Clerks in Holy Orders as Combatants-Dublin, Topography, 77-Kennett, M.P.-L'Espion Anglois-Enemies of Books-The Meteor, or Monthly Censor'-Parish Registers, 78-Village Pounds-Latton Family-Cold NOTES ON BOOKS:- Burke's Peerage and Baronetage Manual of Gloucestershire Literature - L'Intermé

Hands, Warm Heart, 79.

The Ambassador left Venice at short notice on Sept. 2, 1617, but for the first few days his progress was slow. His train comprised a courier, a house steward, the chaplain, the keeper of the wardrobe, the butler, two grooms of the chamber, an assistant groom, besides four footmen-" in number 12, with as many more large coffres and other baggage."

The Ambassador was anxious to avoid the territories of Austria and Spain, and took the road via Vicenza and Verona to Brescia, which was reached on Sept. 7. Leaving again, the travellers arrived at Bergamo, and proceeded on their journey by roads which were little better than halfdried water - courses. The bridges were built, for the most part, of tottering wood; and at one place the mare carrying his Excellency's bed fell on to a ledge of a precipice, and but for speedy help would have gone to the bottom-a fate which later befell some of the valises. On Sept. 9 the travellers, riding through fog and over mountains, reached Morbegno, the first town of the Grisons. Here they found an excellent inn, and consumed some large and very good trout and slept the night, departing the next day in the direction of Splügen. At Chiavenna the inn was sumptuous beyond was short-lived. The road tending westward measure, but the travellers' satisfaction narrowed into tunnels and passes down which from their pastures came the cattle of the country, in number exceeding

66

*The narrative of the journey from Venice to London is contained in Venetian Transcripts,' vol. cxlii. pp. 1–46.

66

five or six thousand," molesting the travellers across the lake attracted the travellers' with their horns. After this a number of notice. Bishop Burnet, 70 years later, packhorses, laden with dairy produce and described this bridge (which was half a mile other commodities, passed and hustled long and 12 feet broad) as wanting rails, them; and later, when they crossed the so that in a storm the passenger was in Splügen Pass, discomfort gave way to terror. danger of being blown into the lake; but They were travelling in the midst of the Busino, passing beneath it, did not notice most frightful" mountains. The roads, this defect.* Reaching Zurich by boat on though paved, were so uneven that the Sept. 17, they put up at the Sword Inn over journey was perilous to a degree; and all the the bridge from which his Excellency time Busino becomes painfully aware that received a salute of musketry. The next Italy is exchanged for Germany. The day they left again for Baden on horseback, churches were bare and desolate, and true crossing the Limmat on one of the large religion gave place to heresy. Miles became carrying rafts in use everywhere at this time leagues in weariness as well as length, and which are described by so many travellers. camere became Stuben." They entered the village of Splügen through narrow gorges overhung by tall trees, along a road which was so difficult that Busino and his companions seemed to be descending into the infernal regions rather than seeking shelter in a village. The emotion was deepened by the knowledge that they were among heretics. In order not to expose himself to insult, Busino was forced to enshroud himself and his cassock in the buff jerkin of a man-at-arms; and it was not until the Catholic canton of Rapperschwyl was reached that he could emerge from his disguise.

66

Leaving Splügen on Sept. 12, the travellers entered the Via Mala, a road so full of dangers that they were altogether frightened out of their wits.* The next day they reached Coire, where they exchanged the four small two-wheeled carts in which the luggage was stowed for one wagon containing the whole. At Wallenstat they took boat along the lake to Wesen, and then entered the Lake of Zurich and reached Rapperschwyl, where they discovered the inhabitants to be all innkeepers. The wooden bridge here

* Descriptions of Alpine travel in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are few, owing possibly to the fact that the travellers were so concerned for their own safety that they had no time to look about them. The following account from

Hentzner, who crossed the Splügen in the opposite
direction in the spring of 1598, is, however, worth
noting:-" In the neighbourhood of Thusis the
way becomes exceedingly difficult and dangerous
by reason of the size of the rocks, the narrow
paths, and the rickety bridges, which are perched
high up over the waters of the Rhine, and which
you cross in a state of fear lest they should break
under you.
The traveller, too, is alarmed by the
roaring of the water which rushes down over
precipices and between crags....Although we
had four guides, who prepared the way with axes
and shovels, we were in such danger of slipping
that we took six hours to cross the pass."-See
Hantzsch, Deutsche Reisende des sechzehnten
Jahrhunderts' Leipzig, 1899, p. 99.

Here

At Basle the travellers betook themselves to the Rhine. At Brisach, a town belonging to the Archduke Maximilian, they were detained for two nights by the authorities, who affected to misunderstand their instructions; but on Sept. 22 they reached Strassburg without further mishap. fresh boatmen had to be engaged, and the travellers found themselves the victims of a kind of general conspiracy to plunder. First of all the water bailiff summoned sundry pilots, who threw dice for the job. The winner, released from all competition, could charge what he pleased. Then followed a formal election of the crew; and later on other men came in as judges to decide whether the candidates were capable of managing a boat, for each of which ceremonies exorbitant fees were extorted. The only satisfaction the Ambassador could obtain was the knowledge that by reason of his dignity he was regarded as a richer prey than usual, and was fleeced with more effrontery. After all this it was found that the boat was a wretched affair, little better than a raft hastily put together, and intended no doubt to be broken up and sold at the end of the voyage. It was only by the help of some door-hangings that his Excellency could be provided with a cabin. Busino describes the boat as put together with spittle rather than nails or pitch; and as he proceeded he found the reflection, "This is all the fence between us and death,' not a little disquieting. At the first starting they were forced back by fog, but the travellers were soon floating down the stream more securely than they supposed.

Travels,' 1687, 61. Burnet also notes the vile going on the Mala Via. He describes the way as cut out of the rock, and states that in several places the steepness of the rock was such that no way could be cut, and beams were driven into the rock, over which boards and earth were laid.-Id., 87, 88.

included salmon trout and lampreys, and the wines were excellently delicate and rare. The hostess was most attentive, and her skill and good management were duly acknowledged by the Ambassador, who, following the usual custom in such cases, presented her with his coat of arms before leaving. This was no doubt emblazoned upon wood and put up outside the inn to commemorate the Ambassador's visit.

There was much to occupy them. Above Spires they were interested to watch the fishermen with their long nets, and the fowlers at work with nets and snares, using tame ducks as decoys. 'The great river thronged with all manner of craft, the vinecovered banks, the thickly planted towns and villages, and the picturesque castles made a great impression on the travellers. True, their delight was marred at times by the melancholy spectacle of gibbets and The travellers were now on the borders wheels set up along the riverside,* but on the of the Netherlands, and after the exac-whole they were in raptures. Here and tions of the Rhine Customs officials they there they were stopped. At some of the were relieved to know that they were towns tribute was collected; at others the soon to be within the territory of an travellers were graciously dismissed. From allied state. On the frontier, for the Mainz a visit was paid to Frankfurt, but first time in their lives, they drank on the return journey they found one of the villages through which they had to pass closed for the night. Although they could get in, the man with the keys could not be found to let them out again, and they were obliged to spend the night under the most distressing, and indeed infamous,' conditions. His Excellency did not choose to sup, and it would seem as if the whole party were obliged to fast, in company with their chief, until the next day, when they laid in a good supply of victuals and proceeded.

At Cologne the Ambassador received a salute of musketry, and here orders were given for a fresh boat to be provided to take the place of the "rickety manger in which they had travelled from Strassburg. For a commodious covered boat 70 crowns was demanded, but finally the figure was reduced to 40. This proved to be a long vessel covered with raw hides, shaped like a cylinder with tapering extremities, and resembling the "long oval butter-pats of Venice." It was fitted with square sails without reefs, with a triangular jib, and was handled by the sailors so skilfully, that they caused it to make headway even in "the eye of the wind." Cologne was left on Sept. 30, and Busino cannot omit to notice the excellent fare at the Inn of the Holy Ghost. Supper

Another traveller, Bizoni, who passed down the Rhine ten years earlier, noted the corpses of malefactors hanging upon gibbets by the riverside or stretched upon wheels. Bizoni and his fellow-travellers found the Rhine journey altogether a less pleasurable affair. The country was infested by bands of lawless soldiers, who did not always distinguish between friend and foe. Suspicious-looking boats were lurking among the islands, and the travellers were much relieved to be joined by three Flemish gentlemen armed with arquebusses.-Rodocanachi, Aventures d'un grand Seigneur Italien à travers l'Europe.' Paris, 1899, pp. 90-91.

beer.

66

The national beverage indeed was already universal in Germany, but it was not equal to the beer of the Netherlands, where it was brewed in large quantities. The experiment was not altogether a success, and Busino records that he took it like medicine ore rotundo," without moistening his lips. At Arnhem, where they arrived on Oct. 2, they slept at an inn kept by an apothecary," entering the house through the shop, which emitted the sweetest possible scent. The rooms were paved with handsome tiles covered with white sand; the walls, as was customary throughout the country, were hung with curtains, pictures, and looking-glasses, and fitted with small cabinets surmounted with jars; and stoves now gave way to fireplaces. From Arnhem his Excellency set out for Amsterdam in an open cart drawn by three horses harnessed abreast, in which he reclined upon a bench stuffed with straw. This luckless vehicle jolted the Ambassador and his chaplain. sky-high. The driver, as was usual in Holland, stopped every few hours to water and bait the horses, and one can almost catch a note of envy in Busino's remark that the servants and the luggage had proceeded by water. At Utrecht they gave up the cart, and waiting at the inn for the passage boat, which was to carry them to Amsterdam, they "found people smoking tobacco and making such an intolerable stench that his Excellency had not the courage to enter."

This was Busino's first introduction to the habit of smoking, but later, on his arrival in London, he found tobacco already a point of good-fellowship, and gives a detailed de cription of the "hollow instrument a span long, called a pipe,"* by means of which

* C.S.P. (Venetian), 1617-19, p. 101.