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JOURNAL OF TRAVELS, &c.

No. I.-PASSAGE TO ENGLAND.

1805....Tuesday, April 6th, on board the Ontario, at sea. To Gold S. Silliman, of Newport, Rhode Island. MY DEAR BROTHER,

On the 4th, at one in the afternoon, we sailed from New York, with a wind so strong and fair, that the spires of the city lessened every moment as we passed down the bay, and we had hardly time to admire the beauty of the retiring landscape. In the morning no land was visible, and we found that we had made a rapid transition from smooth water and fine weather, to tempestuous seas and angry skies. To me who had never been at sea before, it was but an unpromising beginning; distressing sea sickness immediately followed, and this day has been, throughout, dark, stormy, and dismal. Towards evening, however, I became better, and was able to enjoy a scene of much grandeur and beauty, produced by the setting sun, which suddenly shone out from the clouds with great splendour. The circle of the horizon was unbroken by any inequality, except that of the waves, whose snowwhite tops were rendered doubly resplendent, by the reflection of the sun beams, while a fair wind and the prospect of serene weather made ample amends for the gloom of the day. I spent the early part of the night on deck, wrapped in my cloak, with a bag of cotton for my bed.

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April 7.-The morning was pleasant and the wind fair, circumstances which attended us through the whole day, and made it the delightful contrast of the preceding. A little schooner for Wiscasset, from the West Indies, passed almost under our bowsprit, and I endeavoured, in vain, to throw a letter on board addressed to you. There was no other incident to give variety to a fine day, and a charming moon light evening, which succeeded, till sleep, almost as refreshing as on shore, obliterated the consciousness of our situation, and made us insensible to our rapid progress.

April 8.-Light returned, with every circumstance to render it welcome, and the entire recovery of my health, appetite and spirits, has put a new face on the ocean.

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This morning, a large hawk, that had strayed beyond his reckoning, hovered over the ship, and settled upon the peak of our fore-top mast, where he poised himself with his wings, as the motion threw him off from his centre. He seemed much fatigued and very happy to find this resting place-more fortunate he, than the winged messenger that went from the ark, but found no mast or shrub, rising from that "shoreless ocean. When the hawk first alighted, an English gentleman on board remarked, that the American Eagle had come to preside over our passage; but the omen seems unpropitious, for our tutelary genius has already taken his flight, perhaps, distrusting our friendship, and indeed, with some reason, for our passengers had been regretting the want of a gun to bring him down.

In the evening, the sky was clear and serene, and the moon shone with uncommon brightness; our ship, with all her canvass filled by a stiff breeze, moved gracefully and majestically through the water; the sea, for many

yards around, was all in a foam from the rapidity of her motion, which was so regular, that I was able to walk the deck with a firm step, and to enjoy the conversation of an intelligent fellow passenger.

April 9.-In the evening, I observed for the first time, the interesting phenomenon of the lunar bow, which was distinctly visible in about 60° of the upper part of the circle.

April 10.-Even during the short period that I have been at sea, there has been abundant evidence that sudden reverses are the common course of things upon this stormy element. We had no longer the fine vernal sun and mild breezes of yesterday, but a gale from the south-east, with a heavy sea, flying clouds, dashes of rain, and violent squalls. At twilight, the heavens and the ocean presented a scene of great grandeur. The waves ran very high, and the ship danced over their tops like a feather. The sky became suddenly black; darkness, almost like that of night, hung over the deep ;-it was, if I may so say, a darkness shed from the clouds, attended with a portentous gloom, unlike the serenity which night produces ;—the white tops of the waves, as they dashed against each other, and crowned the vast black billows with a seeming ridge of snow, presented a striking contrast to the sable hue of the sea and sky; and the dexterity of the sailors, who, in

the midst of this uproar, climbed the shrouds, and went out to the very ends of the yards to lash the sails, was well adapted to excite my astonishment. I had no fears, but enjoyed in a high degree the majesty of a scene, for my impressions of which I had hitherto been indebted to painters and poets.

Early in the evening, the wind declined; the clouds began to disperse, and the beautiful constellation Orion, was the first that appeared to cheer our spirits, after sø dismal a day.

In the evening a sudden jerk of one of the sails knocked my hat overboard. I saw it, at a considerable distance, floating with the crown downwards, and felt a little solicitude, lest as my name was in it, it might be picked up by some returning American ship, and my friends should be unnecessarily alarmed for my safety. I had no cap to substitute for my hat, but, fortunately Captain T. of the British army, a fellow-passenger, relieved my embarrassment by lending me an old artillery hat, which had seen much hard service in the East Indies; but, with the addition of a string, to keep it on in windy weather, it answered the main purpose of protection very well.

April 11, 3 o'clock, P. M.-We have no longer the strong wind that so lately drove us rapidly towards a lee shore, but, in its place a light breeze from the same point, which has been too feeble either to give us much headway, or to prevent the uncomfortable motion produced by a deep, hollow rolling sea, raised by the wind which subsided last night. At noon to day, our latitude was 43° 42', and we suppose ourselves at least seven hundred miles Finding that we were very near Sable Island, we tacked this evening, and stood for a short time, towards America, but, the wind becoming more favourable, we soon resumed our old course.

from New-York.

April 12, 3 o'clock, P. M.-Last night the ship rolled very much, and, as there has been thus far to-day, almost a perfect calm, the same distressing motion has continued. A little wind is now springing up, with the appearance of

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