the site, and the place has grown up, so Dr. Edson says, with the rapidity of one of our Western cities. We saw here a noble bronze statue of one of the early governors of the place, who spent his own money in building up the city.

3. But when this good man had spent all his vast wealth, the people for whom he had done so much let him go away in his old age, poor and unattended; and when, a year or two later, he died at Sebas'topol, in poverty and neglect, they were suddenly ashamed of their treatment of him; and so, to make what amends they could, they erected this noble monument to his memory.

4. Prof. Howard remarked that it reminded him of what the mother of Robert Burns, the poet, said, when the people erected a stately monument to the memory of her son, whom they had left to starve when he was living:"Ah, Robbie, ye asked them for bread, and they hae gi'en ye a stone."

5. From Odessa we retraced our course back to Constantinople, through the Bos'porus-the Sea of Marmora-the Dardanelles-and then coasted along southward, and, at the bottom of a deep gulf, after passing through crowds of shipping, we dropped anchor in the magnificent harbor of Smyrna, on the coast of Asiatic Turkey. We saw the city of one hundred and seventy thousand inhabitants spread out before us, rising up from the water like a vast amphitheatre, with a noble old, but decayed, castle on an eminence in the background, overlooking the city, but no longer commanding or protecting it.

6. On landing here, we saw for the first time a genuine caravan, then entering the city. It had come all the way from Persia, bearing the costly fabrics, and gems, and spices of the East! The camels were not like the scrawny specimens that we see in menageries: they were really noble-looking animals; and, as they strode along the streets in single file, with the heavy loads on their backs, and a

fancy-looking negro in Turkish costume, or an Arab, preceding them on a little donkey, the whole scene called to mind the stories I had read in the Arabian Nights, when caliphs, and princes, and genii, and giants, filled my imagination by day, and my dreams by night.

7. About forty miles south of Smyrna we visited the ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus, the site of which is

now occupied by a few miserable Turkish villages. The Professor had prepared us for the visit by reading to us, from the nineteenth chapter of the Acts, an account of the effect of the Apostle Paul's preaching here, for here Paul founded a church, and here he resided two years. Here also once stood the magnificent temple dedicated to the worship of the heathen goddess Diana, "whom all Asia and the world worshipped," we are told: and when Paul's preaching against the claims of the goddess was announced to the people, together with his declaration that the magnificence of her temple should come to naught, they raised

a mighty clamor, and shouted, "Great is Diana of the Ephesians!"

8. But what Paul had declared came to pass. The temple had been burned to the ground, during the night on which Alexander the Great was born. The deed was committed by a certain Eros'tratus, who declared that his only object was to immortalize his name. But it was rebuilt with greater magnificence than before, and was the most notable object at Ephesus when Paul was there. Now, however, even the spot on which the temple stood is unknown; but the ruins of the great theatre into which Paul's companions were dragged by the mob of the silversmiths, are still seen there.

9. Sailing out from the harbor of Smyrna, we passed the island of Scio, through the strait of that name, and then past "Samos' rocky isle." Then we sailed past the island and city of Rhodes,-past the very harbor whose entrance is said to have been once spanned by the famous brazen Colossus, one of the seven wonders of the world, as it was pictured in one of my youthful storybooks.

10. As Rhodes was described more than two thousand years ago, it was a very fertile and populous island :—

"A region that abounds with fertile seed

Of plants, and herbs, and foodful grain :
Each verdant hill unnumbered flocks does feed;
Unnumbered men possess each flowery plain."

Pindar.

11. And there were famous artists among the Rhodians, as the noble paintings and statuary attributed to them show, and as the same writer declares:

"Thence in all arts the sons of Rhodes excel;

Though best their forming hands the chisel guide:
This, in each street, the breathing marbles tell,

The stranger's wonder, and the city's pride."-Pindar.

12. We had the mountain-ranges of Cyprus in sight a whole day. We should have been glad to visit this island, whose antiquities have excited so much interest in our country, but Captain Gray steered directly for Beyrout, the chief seaport of Syria,-the centre of the American. Protestant missions in that Moslem country, and the port nearest to Damascus.

13. We were approaching Beyrout in the night, which proved to be very dark; but we did not expect to reach the harbor until about morning. As we had been told that the city, which is just at the foot of Mount Lebanon, presents a beautiful appearance from the sca, several of our party arose early, and went on deck before a glimmer of the dawn could be seen. We knew that we were moving along near the coast, which was eastward of us, and to our left.

14. Now and then a star would be dimly visible; then, as we gazed earnestly shoreward, a faint white light seemed to spread along the horizon, and as it rose higher and assumed a rosy hue, we knew it was the harbinger of coming day. A solitary sea-gull attracted our attention as it flew slowly past us in the dawning, toward the land. A little later, a meteor-flash, like a blade of gold, spread along the eastern sky, the day shone forth in all its glory, and the city lay before us like a brilliant gem sparkling in the sunlight. But Prof. Howard has furnished me with a better description of the scene and its incidents than I can pen :

The Dawning.

15. "The night was dark, though sometimes a faint star, A little while, a little space made bright.

The night was long, and like an iron bar
Lay heavy on the land; till o'er the sea,

Slowly, within the east, there grew a light

Which half was starlight, and half seemed to be

The herald of a greater. The pale white

Turned slowly to pale rose, and up the height

Of heaven slowly climbed. The gray sea grew
Rose-colored, like the sky. A white gull flew
Straight toward the utmost boundary of the east,
Where slowly the rose gathered and increased.
It was as on the opening of a door

By one that in his hand a lamp doth hold,
Whose flame is hidden by the garment's fold.

16. "More bright the east became; the ocean turned Dark and more dark against the brightening-skySharper against the sky the dark sea-line.

The hollows of the breakers on the shore
Were green like leaves whercon no sun doth shine,
Though white the outer branches of the tree.
From rose to red the level heaven burned;
Then sudden, as if a sword fell from on high,
A blade of gold flashed on the horizon's rim."

IV.—From Beyrout to Damascus.

Gilder.

1. We tarried only two days at Bey'rout, which is a city of twenty thousand inhabitants; and then, with a caravan of mules hired for the purpose, and a Turkish escort, our whole party started for Baalbec', forty miles north-east of Bey'rout, leaving directions for our steamer to meet us, some three months later, at Jaffa, a hundred and thirty miles down the coast, and the only port in Palestine.

2. While we were passing over the mountains of Lebanon, we gathered a variety of plants in bloom, that were new to us, and at Prof. Howard's suggestion I have pressed and preserved several of them between the leaves of a book with strong clasps, which the Professor has loaned me for the purpose. Thus I have begun a herbarium of foreign plants, to which I hope to make many additions during the remainder of our voyage.

3. At Baalbec we found a city of wonderful ruins in the