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a peep at Lima, before being called to go to sea again.

While on board the Vincennes, I received an invitation from Commodore Jones to visit the Brandywine. Previous to the arrival of the Guerriere, that day had been appointed for the departure of this vessel for the United States, whether the relief squadron should reach Callao or not; and it was still determined that she should sail. Every thing on board was in the bustle of preparation : but the commodore kindly insisted on my remaining to dinner; and, besides himself, I had the pleasure of forming an acquaintance with Dr. Boyd and Mr. Cox, the surgeon and purser of the frigate, and of meeting Dr. M'Call, late of the Dolphin, a former friend and college companion.

At three o'clock orders were issued for weighing anchor; and as the frigate swung from her moorings, the Guerriere, Vincennes, and St. Louis, gave her three cheers, that made the welkin ring, and every American bosom thrill with excitement; to which an answer, filled with the enthusiasm of homeward affections, was given by the five hundred of the Brandywine's crew, hanging like so many birds in the shrouds; and immediately after, as we took a hasty leave, she bore away on her destination. The Vincennes, in compliment, followed her into the offing, and, after exchanging farewell salutes, stood in again, to take her station under Commodore Thompson's flag.

There is much etiquette in these movements: on Friday, as we came in, the moment the blue pennant of Commodore Jones could be distinguished with a glass, that of Commodore Thompson was hauled down, and one of red substituted; Commodore Jones, so long as he remained, being the commander of the station; and it was not till the Brandywine had left the bay, that the blue again floated from the masthead of the Guerriere.

Expecting to be in Lima the next sabbath, (the only one that will intervene between the present time and the sailing of the Vincennes,) I yesterday preached a valedictory sermon to my charge here, and had full evidence of the interest and affection with which I am regarded by the ship's company. It was not till then generally known, except among the officers, that I was to be transferred to the Vincennes. The introduction of the subject at the close of my discourse, led many of the latter, during the afternoon, to speak in the most gratifying terms to one desirous supremely of securing their kind feeling to points of the highest moment to their future destiny.

I need not tell you, dear H, that my own heart is deeply affected in view of the removal. I am sincerely and warmly attached to the whole ship's company, and "the redemption of their souls" has indeed been "precious in my sight." I cannot but hope that any efforts I have made, for their temporal and eternal good, have not been altogether in vain. Nothwithstanding the great wickedness perceptible in much that is seen and heard on every hand, there is some appearance at least that the "fallow ground" in the hearts of many, is broken up, and prepared for the good seed of the word of God. Of that which has already been sown, much may have fallen by the wayside, and at once been picked up by the fowls of the air; much may lie buried among thorns, where it is choked; and much, which has sprung up with seeming gladness, may prove to be in stony ground only, and, having no root in itself, may wither away and perish. Still, I hope, that some may have fallen in the good ground of sincere and honest hearts, and will yet yield abundantly of the fruits of peace and righteousness, to the praise and glory of God, some thirty, some sixty, and some an hundred fold.

Lima.

LETTER XVII.

SKETCH OF CALLAO, AND RIDE TO LIMA.

Lima, June 23d, 1829.

AFTER dinner I landed at Callao at 4 o'clock this afternoon, to visit Lima. It was the first time I had been on shore; and much as I had heard of the wretchedness of the port, I was disgusted with the poverty, filth, and whole aspect of the place.

The shipping between the anchorage of our squadron and the landing, had entirely screened the town from view, except the beautiful castle and fortress by which it is defended; and the strength and good keeping of these, greatly deceived me as to the size and importance of the place. The population amounts to about two thousand, crowded along a single street of half-a-mile, following the curvature of the bay, intersected by two or three others a few rods only in length, except that formed by the road to Lima.

The extent of ground covered is not equal to that at Honolulu; while scarce a habitation in the town has an appearance, externally, of greater civilization and comfort than that of Marini the Spaniard there: and every street presents all the offence to the senses found in the metropolis of the Sandwich Islands.

The houses generally are of one story only, on account of the frequency of earthquakes; and as it scarce ever rains, all the roofs are perfectly flat. The walls, terminating abruptly and irregularly

above them, without the ornament of a cornice or balustrade, give to the whole the appearance of so many ruins, from which the tops and chimneys have been shaken or blown; an impression not diminished by the shattered and peeled surface of the plaster with which they are covered.

The building of a new house near the coach-office gave an opportunity of observing the process in putting up a habitation of the common kind. It consists in first planting in the ground upright posts, a foot or more in circumference, and sixteen or eighteen feet high, at a distance of two or three yards from each other, along lines marking the dimensions of the building. To these, when firmly set, long sticks of bamboo, an inch or more in diameter, are lashed horizontally with thongs of undressed hide, commencing at the ground, with three bamboos close together, then a space of two or three feet, then three bamboos again, and so on to the top. Through these horizontal layers, sticks of the same, but more slender, are wattled perpendicularly, as closely as possible; forming a basis or lathing for the mud or mortar with which the walls are finished.

The roofs are of cane, wattled in a similar manner, with the addition, in some cases, of a ceiling of boards or plank. A pavement of large brick constitutes the floor; and the windows, in place of glass, are filled usually with bars or grates of wood or iron, with an outside shutter to be closed at night.

Two or three lines of coaches run twice a-day between Callao and Lima. After the peep I had taken of the town, I did not anticipate much from the carriages it might supply; and was agreeably disappointed in the equipages, as they drove, at the appointed hour, to the doors of different public houses in the principal street. One was a handsome English chariot, formerly the property of a British consul; and another, a low and neatly finished

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barouche, drawn by four fine and well-harnessed horses.

The towers and domes of Lima, eight or nine miles inland, are distinctly seen from the bay, stretching, for a mile or more, along the upper line of a heathlike and desolate-looking country, with the Cordilleras in gigantic majesty behind. From the gradual rise of the land, the elevation of the city seems scarce above the site of Callao; but from accurate measurement, by Humboldt and others, it is known to be seven hundred feet higher than the sea-level.

The road, which is wide and straight, strikes from the port across a marshy plain, and is, for the first three or four miles, excessively dreary.

A want of interest in the natural scenery was made up in a degree, however, by the variety and novel appearance of many of the persons and groups passing, in one direction or the other. Soon after leaving Callao, we overtook two Cabelleros in ponchos and high-crowned grass hats, the costume of the country, mounted on spirited animals, with English saddles, but using in place of a whip the long platted and knotted ends of the reins, the universal practice along the coast. They looked grave as deacons, and probably owed their sedateness to a large mixture of Spanish blood.

The poncho is an original Indian garment, about two yards in length, and one and a half in breadth, with a hole cut in the centre, through which the head is passed, while the ends and sides hang in loose drapery around the figure. It is made of every variety of material, and of course varies in expensiveness; being formed sometimes of common white or striped cotton only, with a coarse fringe or binding around the neck and edges; but often of the finest cloth, ornamented with rich embroidery.

Shortly afterwards, we passed a group still more novel and characteristic, having a strong dash of the